What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Niacinamide 5%
SmoothingGlycolic Acid 5%
BufferingSalicylic Acid 2%
MaskingBakuchiol 1%
AntimicrobialPolyglycerin-6
HumectantAzelaic Acid
BufferingBetaine
HumectantSodium PCA
HumectantMagnesium PCA
HumectantZinc PCA
HumectantManganese PCA
HumectantWater
Skin ConditioningPropylene Glycol
HumectantSodium Bicarbonate
AbrasiveSodium Gluconate
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingPEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
EmulsifyingBacopa Monnieri Oil
AntioxidantGlycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
BleachingMagnolia Officinalis Bark Extract
AntimicrobialPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeTriethylene Glycol
MaskingNiacinamide 5%, Glycolic Acid 5%, Salicylic Acid 2%, Bakuchiol 1%, Polyglycerin-6, Azelaic Acid, Betaine, Sodium PCA, Magnesium PCA, Zinc PCA, Manganese PCA, Water, Propylene Glycol, Sodium Bicarbonate, Sodium Gluconate, Glycerin, Xanthan Gum, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Bacopa Monnieri Oil, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Triethylene Glycol
Water
Skin ConditioningPropanediol
SolventButylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate
EmollientGluconolactone
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantAlcohol Denat.
AntimicrobialSilica
AbrasiveHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingZinc PCA
HumectantButylene Glycol
HumectantSodium Hydroxide
BufferingParfum
MaskingSodium Benzoate
MaskingChondrus Crispus
MaskingLevulinic Acid
PerfumingMaltodextrin
AbsorbentPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningPeumus Boldus Leaf Extract
MaskingSodium Levulinate
Skin ConditioningCitric Acid
BufferingAzelaic Acid
BufferingBixa Orellana Seed Extract
MaskingMandelic Acid
AntimicrobialGlycolic Acid
BufferingPolysorbate 60
EmulsifyingSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingHydrolyzed Wheat Flour
Skin ConditioningSodium Phytate
Sucrose Palmitate
EmollientCI 77289
Cosmetic ColorantXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingNiacinamide
SmoothingCeramide AP
Skin Conditioning1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientDipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate
Skin ConditioningGlyceryl Linoleate
EmollientPrunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Skin ConditioningSodium Chloride
MaskingEthylhexyl Salicylate
UV AbsorberButyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane
UV AbsorberDiethylhexyl Syringylidenemalonate
Skin ProtectingGlucose
HumectantPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantPotassium Chloride
Potassium Sorbate
PreservativeCalcium Chloride
AstringentMagnesium Sulfate
Glutamine
Skin ConditioningSodium Phosphate
BufferingAscorbic Acid
AntioxidantSodium Acetate
BufferingTocopherol
AntioxidantLysine Hcl
Skin ConditioningArginine Hcl
Skin ConditioningAlanine
MaskingHistidine Hcl
Skin ConditioningValine
MaskingLeucine
Skin ConditioningThreonine
Isoleucine
Skin ConditioningTryptophan
MaskingPhenylalanine
MaskingTyrosine
MaskingGlycine
BufferingPolysorbate 80
EmulsifyingSerine
MaskingCystine
MaskingCyanocobalamin
Skin ConditioningGlutathione
Asparagine
MaskingAspartic Acid
MaskingOrnithine Hcl
Skin ConditioningGlutamic Acid
HumectantNicotinamide Adenine Dinucleotide
Skin ConditioningProline
Skin ConditioningMethionine
Skin ConditioningTaurine
BufferingHydroxyproline
Skin ConditioningGlucosamine Hcl
Coenzyme A
Skin ConditioningSodium Glucuronate
HumectantThiamine Diphosphate
Skin ConditioningRetinyl Acetate
Skin ConditioningInositol
HumectantNiacin
SmoothingPyridoxine Hcl
Skin ConditioningBiotin
AntiseborrhoeicCalcium Pantothenate
Riboflavin
Cosmetic ColorantSodium Tocopheryl Phosphate
AntioxidantThiamine Hcl
MaskingFolic Acid
Skin ConditioningWater, Propanediol, Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Gluconolactone, Glycerin, Alcohol Denat., Silica, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Zinc PCA, Butylene Glycol, Sodium Hydroxide, Parfum, Sodium Benzoate, Chondrus Crispus, Levulinic Acid, Maltodextrin, Pentylene Glycol, Peumus Boldus Leaf Extract, Sodium Levulinate, Citric Acid, Azelaic Acid, Bixa Orellana Seed Extract, Mandelic Acid, Glycolic Acid, Polysorbate 60, Sorbitan Isostearate, Hydrolyzed Wheat Flour, Sodium Phytate, Sucrose Palmitate, CI 77289, Xanthan Gum, Niacinamide, Ceramide AP, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Glyceryl Linoleate, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Sodium Chloride, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Diethylhexyl Syringylidenemalonate, Glucose, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Potassium Chloride, Potassium Sorbate, Calcium Chloride, Magnesium Sulfate, Glutamine, Sodium Phosphate, Ascorbic Acid, Sodium Acetate, Tocopherol, Lysine Hcl, Arginine Hcl, Alanine, Histidine Hcl, Valine, Leucine, Threonine, Isoleucine, Tryptophan, Phenylalanine, Tyrosine, Glycine, Polysorbate 80, Serine, Cystine, Cyanocobalamin, Glutathione, Asparagine, Aspartic Acid, Ornithine Hcl, Glutamic Acid, Nicotinamide Adenine Dinucleotide, Proline, Methionine, Taurine, Hydroxyproline, Glucosamine Hcl, Coenzyme A, Sodium Glucuronate, Thiamine Diphosphate, Retinyl Acetate, Inositol, Niacin, Pyridoxine Hcl, Biotin, Calcium Pantothenate, Riboflavin, Sodium Tocopheryl Phosphate, Thiamine Hcl, Folic Acid
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Azelaic acid is a multitasker ingredient that helps treat acne, pigmentation, and irritation. It is a great option for sensitive skin.
What makes it special?
OTC Azelaic acid is usually available in concentrations from 10-15% and anything over requires a prescription.
Here's what each tier does best:
Unlike other acids, azelaic acid will not make your skin more photosensitive/sun sensitive.
Though this ingredient is naturally occurring in grains like wheat, rye, and barley, it is usually synthetically created for cosmetics to ensure stability and effectiveness.
Learn more about Azelaic AcidGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlycolic Acid is arguably the most famous alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) with tons of research backing its benefits.
It is found naturally in sugar cane but the form used in skincare is usually synthetic for purity and stability.
Glycolic acid removes the top layer of dead skin cells to allow newer and fresher ones to emerge.
AHAs work by breaking down the structural “glue” that holds old skin cells in place. When that buildup is gone, your skin can renew itself more efficiently.
Research also shows glycolic acid stimulates collagen production, helping to firm and thicken the skin over time. This is one of its biggest advantages over other AHAs.
Overall, glycolic acid helps with:
Fun fact: Glycolic acid boosts skin hydration by helping it produce molecules that increase hyaluronic acid naturally.
To work best, glycolic acid products should have a pH between 3-4 (that’s where exfoliation is most effective but still gentle on skin).
The pH and concentration of a product are key to its effectiveness:
It is normal to feel a slight stinging sensation when using glycolic acid. This usually fades as your skin adjusts.
Because glycolic acid has the smallest molecular size in the AHA family, it can penetrate deeper, which enhances its effectiveness but also makes it more likely to irritate sensitive skin.
If your skin is very sensitive or prone to rosacea, glycolic acid may be too strong; in that case, try milder options like lactic acid or a PHA instead.
Recent studies suggest glycolic acid might even help protect against UV damage. But don’t skip sunscreen! Freshly exfoliated skin is more sensitive to the sun.
Glycolic acid is a skincare superstar. It smooths, brightens, hydrates, and firms the skin. Unless you’re highly sensitive, it’s well worth adding to your routine.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Learn more about Glycolic AcidNiacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Learn more about NiacinamidePhenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Learn more about PhenoxyethanolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan GumZinc PCA is a clever two-in-one molecule: the zinc salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA).
Think of it as two useful things bonded together; the PCA half is one of your skin's own natural moisturizing factors (NMF) so it helps hold water in the upper layers. On the other hand, the zinc half does the heavy lifting on oil and bacteria.
The zinc part slows down an enzyme that turns testosterone into DHT, the hormone that tells your oil glands to pump out more sebum. Less of that signal means less oil. It also gently fights acne-causing bacteria and soothes redness/irritation.
This is why Zinc PCA often shows up in products for oily, breakout-prone skin and greasy scalps.
One lab study also hinted it might have a small anti-aging perk because it seemed to protect collagen from UVA damage and even helped the skin make a bit more of it. That last bit is still early research done in a dish and not real skin, so take it as a nice bonus rather than a promise for now.
As for scar healing, the picture is more "maybe" than a firm yes. Zinc itself plays a real role in wound repair because it is a cofactor for the enzymes involved in collagen building, calming inflammation, and helping new skin cells cover a wound. Lower zinc levels are also linked to slower healing.
Most of the scar healing research is on zinc oxide or oral zinc rather than zinc PCA specifically, with a focus on healing fresh wounds instead of scars that are already there.
Direct evidence that zinc PCA improves the look of established scars is still limited at this time. Though it would be fair to say zinc PCA supports the general skin-repair environment thanks to its zinc content .
This ingredient is water-soluble and plays nicely with other actives like niacinamide and salicylic acid. It works best at mildly acidic formulas (~4-6 pH) and is effective at low levels. Around 0.1% is enough to be active and finished products commonly use it anywhere up to 4%.
Overall, this is a well-tolerated, low-drama multitasker that suits oily and acne-prone skin.
Learn more about Zinc PCA