What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantDimethicone
EmollientEuphorbia Cerifera Cera
AstringentTheobroma Cacao Seed Butter
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientPEG-100 Stearate
Benzyl Alcohol
PerfumingBisabolol
AntioxidantPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeSodium Stearoyl Glutamate
CleansingXanthan Gum
Emulsifying1-Methylhydantoin-2-Imide
Skin ConditioningSodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
AntioxidantDisodium EDTA
Dehydroacetic Acid
PreservativeBakuchiol
AntimicrobialEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningLecithin
EmollientRetinol
Skin ConditioningHyaluronic Acid
HumectantSodium Hydroxide
BufferingBHT
AntioxidantBHA
AntioxidantWater, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Euphorbia Cerifera Cera, Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Benzyl Alcohol, Bisabolol, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Xanthan Gum, 1-Methylhydantoin-2-Imide, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Disodium EDTA, Dehydroacetic Acid, Bakuchiol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Lecithin, Retinol, Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, BHT, BHA
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningDimethicone
EmollientCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientAlcohol Denat.
AntimicrobialButylene Glycol
HumectantPolyacrylamide
Glyceryl Stearate
EmollientStearic Acid
CleansingPalmitic Acid
EmollientPEG-100 Stearate
Phenoxyethanol
PreservativeBoron Nitride
AbsorbentC13-14 Isoparaffin
EmollientPanthenol
Skin ConditioningMethylparaben
PreservativeCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingLaureth-7
EmulsifyingEthylparaben
PreservativeBisabolol
AntioxidantPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingRetinol
Skin ConditioningTetrasodium EDTA
Sorbitan Laurate
EmulsifyingInulin Lauryl Carbamate
Emulsion StabilisingSodium Lauroyl Lactylate
EmulsifyingCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingHydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingSucrose Laurate
EmollientBehentrimonium Chloride
PreservativeAcetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester
Skin ConditioningCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningPhytosphingosine
Skin ConditioningCeramide AP
Skin ConditioningCholesterol
EmollientXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningBenzoic Acid
MaskingPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin ConditioningCeramide EOP
Skin ConditioningWater, Glycerin, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Dimethicone, Cetearyl Alcohol, Alcohol Denat., Butylene Glycol, Polyacrylamide, Glyceryl Stearate, Stearic Acid, Palmitic Acid, PEG-100 Stearate, Phenoxyethanol, Boron Nitride, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Panthenol, Methylparaben, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Laureth-7, Ethylparaben, Bisabolol, Polysorbate 20, Retinol, Tetrasodium EDTA, Sorbitan Laurate, Inulin Lauryl Carbamate, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Carbomer, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Sucrose Laurate, Behentrimonium Chloride, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Ceramide NP, Phytosphingosine, Ceramide AP, Cholesterol, Xanthan Gum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Benzoic Acid, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Ceramide EOP
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Bisabolol is a gentle skin conditioner, antioxidant, and soothing ingredient.
It's primary claim to fame is soothing and research shows topically applied bisabolol can quiet the chemical messengers that cause your skin to become inflamed, helping to sooth any irritation.
A clinical study found that applying 0.5% bisabolol daily for 8 weeks produced an average 9% decrease in skin pigmentation. Researchers found it can also suppress the process that leads to excess melanin production in skin.
In vitro studies found that bisabolol combined with propylene glycol significantly increased skin permeability by increasing lipid fluidity in the stratum corneum.
You'll likely see use concentrations quite low, usually 0.1-0.2%.
Overall, this is a well-tolerated ingredient that works well in formulas designed for sensitive, reactive, or post-procedure skin.
Learn more about BisabololThis ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Learn more about Butyrospermum Parkii ButterThis ingredient is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping the skin prevent moisture loss.
It helps thicken a product's formula and makes it easier to spread by dissolving clumping compounds.
Caprylic Triglyceride is made by combining glycerin with coconut oil, forming a clear liquid. Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. It is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid. In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Be sure to patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholDimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Learn more about DimethiconeEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearatePeg-100 Stearate is an emollient and emulsifier. As an emollient, it helps keep skin soft by trapping moisture in. On the other hand, emulsifiers help prevent oil and water from separating in a product.
PEGS are a hydrophilic polyether compound . There are 100 ethylene oxide monomers in Peg-100 Stearate. Peg-100 Stearate is polyethylene glycol ester of stearic acid.
Phenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Retinol is a gold-standard ingredient for anti-aging. It is a form of Vitamin A and belongs to the class of retinoids that also includes tretinoin.
Why is retinol famous?
It has the most scientific studies backing up its skin benefits out of all the non-prescription ingredients.
Retinol is proven to:
This is why retinol is effective at removing wrinkles, fading dark spots, treating acne, and reducing the appearance of pores.
Studies show retinol is less effective when exposed to UV. Be sure to look for appropriate packaging to keep your retinol potent (similar to Vitamin C).
Using retinol or any retinoids will increase sun-sensitivity in the first few months. Though studies show retinoids increase your skin's natural SPF with continuous use, it is best to always wear sunscreen and sun-protection.
We recommend speaking with a medical professional about using this ingredient during pregnancy.
Retinol may cause irritation in some people, so be sure to patch test. Experts recommend 'ramping up' retinol use: start using this ingredient once a week and work up to using it daily.
Read about Tretinoin
Learn more about RetinolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum