This acne serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Zinc PCA to clear breakouts and balance excess oil.
This acne serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Salicylic Acid to clear breakouts and fade the look of dark spots.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningNiacinamide 5%
SmoothingGlycereth-26
HumectantCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialZinc PCA 1%
HumectantCentella Asiatica Extract 1%
CleansingPropanediol
SolventPropylene Glycol
HumectantPolyacrylate Crosspolymer-11
Emulsion StabilisingGarcinia Mangostana Peel Extract 0.67%
Skin ConditioningPhenoxyethanol
PreservativePentylene Glycol
Skin Conditioning1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningCitric Acid
BufferingGlycolic Acid
BufferingLactic Acid
BufferingMalic Acid
BufferingPrunus Armeniaca Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningPsidium Guajava Fruit Extract
AstringentVitis Vinifera Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningMangifera Indica Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningPrunus Persica Fruit Extract
AbrasiveRubus Idaeus Fruit Extract
AstringentFragaria Ananassa Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningTriethylene Glycol
MaskingDipotassium Glycyrrhizate
HumectantSodium Hydroxide
BufferingMagnolia Officinalis Bark Extract
AntimicrobialPaeonia Albiflora Root Extract
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
HumectantSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantSodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
HumectantHydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Skin ConditioningPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningWater, Niacinamide 5%, Glycereth-26, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Zinc PCA 1%, Centella Asiatica Extract 1%, Propanediol, Propylene Glycol, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-11, Garcinia Mangostana Peel Extract 0.67%, Phenoxyethanol, Pentylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Citric Acid, Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid, Malic Acid, Prunus Armeniaca Fruit Extract, Psidium Guajava Fruit Extract, Vitis Vinifera Fruit Extract, Mangifera Indica Fruit Extract, Prunus Persica Fruit Extract, Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract, Fragaria Ananassa Fruit Extract, Triethylene Glycol, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Sodium Hydroxide, Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract, Paeonia Albiflora Root Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Potassium Sorbate, Ethylhexylglycerin
Water
Skin ConditioningSchizophyllan
HumectantNiacinamide
SmoothingPropanediol
SolventSilanediol Salicylate
EmollientSalicylic Acid
MaskingDextrin
AbsorbentGlycerin
HumectantButylene Glycol
Humectant1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningLactobacillus Ferment Lysate
Skin ConditioningTaraxacum Officinale Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningPanthenol
Skin ConditioningCamelina Sativa Seed Oil
Skin ConditioningThymus Vulgaris Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
Skin ConditioningZinc PCA
HumectantAllium Cepa Bulb Extract
Skin ConditioningAllantoin
Skin ConditioningTranexamic Acid
Astringent4-Terpineol
MaskingSalix Alba Bark Extract
Astringent10-Hydroxydecanoic Acid
Skin ConditioningSebacic Acid
Buffering1,10-Decanediol
SolventCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingGlucose
HumectantSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantChondrus Crispus Extract
Skin ConditioningHydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
HumectantSodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
HumectantHyaluronic Acid
HumectantSodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
HumectantHydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Skin ConditioningPotassium Hyaluronate
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningCeramide AP
Skin ConditioningCeramide EOP
Skin ConditioningPhytosphingosine
Skin ConditioningCholesterol
EmollientSodium Lauroyl Lactylate
EmulsifyingCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingPolyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Emulsion StabilisingPPG-26-Buteth-26
Skin ConditioningPEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
EmulsifyingMelaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil
AntioxidantAloe Barbadensis Leaf Powder
Skin ConditioningLactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer
Skin ConditioningPolyvinyl Alcohol
Arbutin
AntioxidantSodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
AntioxidantPalmitoyl Sh-Tripeptide-5 Norisoleucyl Sh-Nonapeptide-1
Skin ConditioningHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantDipropylene Glycol
HumectantDipotassium Glycyrrhizate
HumectantWater, Schizophyllan, Niacinamide, Propanediol, Silanediol Salicylate, Salicylic Acid, Dextrin, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate, Taraxacum Officinale Leaf Extract, Panthenol, Camelina Sativa Seed Oil, Thymus Vulgaris Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Zinc PCA, Allium Cepa Bulb Extract, Allantoin, Tranexamic Acid, 4-Terpineol, Salix Alba Bark Extract, 10-Hydroxydecanoic Acid, Sebacic Acid, 1,10-Decanediol, Centella Asiatica Extract, Xanthan Gum, Glucose, Sodium Hyaluronate, Chondrus Crispus Extract, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Potassium Hyaluronate, Caprylyl Glycol, Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Phytosphingosine, Cholesterol, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Carbomer, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, PPG-26-Buteth-26, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Powder, Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer, Polyvinyl Alcohol, Arbutin, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Palmitoyl Sh-Tripeptide-5 Norisoleucyl Sh-Nonapeptide-1, Hydroxyacetophenone, Dipropylene Glycol, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Centella Asiatica Extract (Centella) is one of the most researched botanical extracts in skincare with decades of studies backing its effects on inflammation, collagen, and the skin barrier.
That research keeps pointing back to the same four triterpenoid saponins: Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, Asiatic Acid, and Madecassic Acid.
These compounds allow centella to dial back inflammation, encourage the skin to build and hold onto collagen, support the barrier and hydration, and bring solid antioxidant activity to protect against signs of aging.
Centella also carries a nice supporting cast of Vitamin A, vitamin C, several B vitamins, and amino acids. Put it all together and you get an ingredient that soothes, hydrates, and protects, all at once.
Most of centella's magic comes from the four big compounds (Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, Asiatic Acid, and Madecassic Acid). These are the actives doing the heavy lifting in almost every centella study.
Here is the short version of what they do in the skin:
So it is not just soothing for the sake of soothing. Centella calms the skin AND helps it rebuild.
Just FYI, not all centella on an ingredient list is the same. What you are getting actually depends on the extract:
Fun fact on the ratios: the leaves tend to be richest in Madecassoside and Asiaticoside, and lower in the two acids. The exact amounts shift with where the plant is grown and how it is processed. This means purity really does vary brand to brand.
Centella is one of the most easygoing actives out there.
It layers well with basically everything: niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, peptides, and vitamin C, and also pairs nicely with stronger actives like retinoids and exfoliating acids where it can help take the edge off irritation.
On the safety side, centella and its triterpenes are classified as weak sensitizers, meaning allergic reactions are possible but uncommon.
Patch tests at 1% and 5% came back negative in test panels, and creams at typical use levels did not cause allergic reactions across large groups of people.
But as with any new active, a patch test is still a smart move for very reactive skin.
Centella is widely used because it is effective at low percentages. For context, human safety testing found no meaningful irritation from creams containing centella extract at everyday use levels (the tested amounts were well under 1%).
The irritancy threshold in animal testing was also above 30% (so real-world formulas sit far below anything concerning).
In collagen lab studies, higher concentrations drove more collagen synthesis, so serums built around centella tend to feature it more prominently.
Bottom line: you will find centella working nicely anywhere from a fraction of a percent up to hero-ingredient levels depending on whether it is a supporting soother or the main event.
Fun fact: Centella has been used as a medicine and in food for many centuries. As a medicine, it is used to treat burns, scratches, and wounds.
Learn more about Centella Asiatica ExtractDipotassium Glycyrrhizate comes from licorice root.
Extracts of licorice have demonstrated to have antibacterial, anti‐inflammatory, antiviral, antioxidant properties.
One component, glabridin, has extra potent antioxidant and soothing properties. It has also been found to block pigmentation from UVB rays in guinea pigs.
Licorice Root also contains a flavonoid. Flavonoids are a natural substance from in plants. Flavonoids also have antioxidant properties.
Another component, glycyrrhizin, has been found to have anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial benefits. This may make licorice root extract effective at treating acne. However, more research is needed to support this.
Liquiritin is one of the flavone compounds found in licorice. It has been found to help lighten skin by preventing tyrosinase from reacting with tyrosine. When the two react, protein is converted to melanin. Melanin is the substance in your body that gives your features pigmentation.
Licorice root is native to Southern Europe and Asia. It has been used in traditional Chinese medicine to help with respiratory issues.
Learn more about Dipotassium GlycyrrhizateThis ingredient is created by putting sodium hyaluronate through hydrolysis.
You might know this as 'mini' or 'ultra low-molecular weight' hyaluronic acid. The small molecule size means it is able to travel deeper in the skin.
According to studies, low molecular-weight hyaluronic acid can:
One study from 2011 found ultra-low weight HA to show pro-inflammatory properties. Another study from 2022 found it to downregulate UV-B induced inflammation.
Hydrolysis is a process of changing a molecule using water or enzymes.
This ingredient is water-soluble.
Learn more about Hydrolyzed Sodium HyaluronateNiacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Learn more about NiacinamidePropanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Learn more about PropanediolSodium Acetylated Hyaluronate is a type of Hyaluronic Acid.
Hyaluronic Acids help moisturize, soothe, and protect the skin.
Read about common types of Hyaluronic Acid here:
Learn more about Sodium Acetylated HyaluronateSodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium HyaluronateSodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer is a crosslinked version of sodium hyaluronate. This just means it's linked into a 3D mesh network that lets it be more stable and sit on skin as a cohesive, gel-like film rather than sinking into skin.
A 2016 human skin study found crosslinked HA increased epidermal water content by 7.6% over the control group and reduced transepidermal water loss by 27.8%.
A follow-up clinical trial found that a topical crosslinked HA serum applied after fillers, microneedling, or chemical peels was well-tolerated and enhanced skin quality at 14 / 28 days.
More recent research suggests that concentrations as low as 0.03% can act as a penetration enhancer for other skincare actives.
Learn more about Sodium Hyaluronate CrosspolymerWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterZinc PCA is a clever two-in-one molecule: the zinc salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA).
Think of it as two useful things bonded together; the PCA half is one of your skin's own natural moisturizing factors (NMF) so it helps hold water in the upper layers. On the other hand, the zinc half does the heavy lifting on oil and bacteria.
The zinc part slows down an enzyme that turns testosterone into DHT, the hormone that tells your oil glands to pump out more sebum. Less of that signal means less oil. It also gently fights acne-causing bacteria and soothes redness/irritation.
This is why Zinc PCA often shows up in products for oily, breakout-prone skin and greasy scalps.
One lab study also hinted it might have a small anti-aging perk because it seemed to protect collagen from UVA damage and even helped the skin make a bit more of it. That last bit is still early research done in a dish and not real skin, so take it as a nice bonus rather than a promise for now.
As for scar healing, the picture is more "maybe" than a firm yes. Zinc itself plays a real role in wound repair because it is a cofactor for the enzymes involved in collagen building, calming inflammation, and helping new skin cells cover a wound. Lower zinc levels are also linked to slower healing.
Most of the scar healing research is on zinc oxide or oral zinc rather than zinc PCA specifically, with a focus on healing fresh wounds instead of scars that are already there.
Direct evidence that zinc PCA improves the look of established scars is still limited at this time. Though it would be fair to say zinc PCA supports the general skin-repair environment thanks to its zinc content .
This ingredient is water-soluble and plays nicely with other actives like niacinamide and salicylic acid. It works best at mildly acidic formulas (~4-6 pH) and is effective at low levels. Around 0.1% is enough to be active and finished products commonly use it anywhere up to 4%.
Overall, this is a well-tolerated, low-drama multitasker that suits oily and acne-prone skin.
Learn more about Zinc PCA