What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
EmollientPEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingDiethylhexyl Sebacate
EmollientSynthetic Wax
AbrasiveDicaprylyl Carbonate
EmollientPolyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate
EmulsifyingBrassica Campestris Seed Oil
Skin ConditioningCamellia Japonica Seed Oil
EmollientCeramide AP
Skin ConditioningCeramide Ng
Skin ConditioningCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningOryza Sativa Germ Oil
EmollientButyrospermum Parkii Oil
EmollientCharcoal Powder
AbrasiveCorylus Avellana Seed Oil
EmollientLimnanthes Alba Seed Oil
Skin ConditioningKaolin
AbrasivePersea Gratissima Oil
Skin ConditioningPelargonium Graveolens Oil
MaskingCitrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil
MaskingMacadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
EmollientOenothera Biennis Oil
EmollientPrunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Skin ConditioningSalicylic Acid
MaskingSea Silt
Skin ConditioningSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientTocopherol
AntioxidantVitis Vinifera Seed Oil
EmollientRosa Canina Fruit Oil
EmollientHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingSucrose Tetrastearate Triacetate
EmollientPEG-5 Glyceryl Triisostearate
EmollientBeeswax
Emulsion StabilisingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativePolyglyceryl-2 Tetraisostearate
EmollientPEG-7 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides
EmulsifyingPhytosterols
Skin ConditioningEthylhexyl Palmitate, PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Diethylhexyl Sebacate, Synthetic Wax, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate, Brassica Campestris Seed Oil, Camellia Japonica Seed Oil, Ceramide AP, Ceramide Ng, Ceramide NP, Oryza Sativa Germ Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii Oil, Charcoal Powder, Corylus Avellana Seed Oil, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, Kaolin, Persea Gratissima Oil, Pelargonium Graveolens Oil, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Oenothera Biennis Oil, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Salicylic Acid, Sea Silt, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Tocopherol, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, Rosa Canina Fruit Oil, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Sucrose Tetrastearate Triacetate, PEG-5 Glyceryl Triisostearate, Beeswax, Phenoxyethanol, Polyglyceryl-2 Tetraisostearate, PEG-7 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides, Phytosterols
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
EmollientPEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate
EmollientSynthetic Wax
AbrasiveDimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate
EmollientPEG-5 Glyceryl Triisostearate
EmollientTocopherol
AntioxidantRosa Damascena Flower Oil
MaskingPelargonium Graveolens Oil
MaskingCamellia Sinensis Seed Oil
HumectantPrunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil
MaskingRosa Canina Fruit Oil
EmollientVitis Vinifera Seed Oil
EmollientAlaria Esculenta Extract
Skin ProtectingPhysalis Angulata Extract
Skin ProtectingUndaria Pinnatifida Extract
Skin ConditioningPassiflora Edulis Seed Oil
EmollientSalvia Hispanica Seed Oil
EmollientHydrogenated Vegetable Oil
EmollientCrithmum Maritimum Extract
Skin ConditioningSclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil
HumectantPhoenix Dactylifera Seed Extract
MoisturisingCitrullus Lanatus Seed Oil
EmollientSolanum Lycopersicum Fruit/Leaf/Stem Extract
AstringentPersea Gratissima Oil
Skin ConditioningRosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientSqualene
EmollientJojoba Oil/Macadamia Seed Oil Esters
Skin ConditioningPhytosteryl Macadamiate
Skin ConditioningEchium Plantagineum Seed Oil
Skin ConditioningCardiospermum Halicacabum Flower/Leaf/Vine Extract
Skin ConditioningHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil Unsaponifiables
EmollientOlea Europaea Fruit Oil
MaskingSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientArgania Spinosa Kernel Oil
EmollientOryza Sativa Germ Oil
EmollientLimnanthes Alba Seed Oil
Skin ConditioningAscorbyl Tetraisopalmitate
AntioxidantPrinsepia Utilis Seed Oil
EmollientLupinus Albus Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningIrvingia Gabonensis Kernel Butter
Skin ConditioningBrassica Campestris Sterols
EmollientHydrogenated Coco-Glycerides
EmollientOctyldodecanol
EmollientPhytosterols
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeEthylhexyl Palmitate, PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate, Synthetic Wax, Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, PEG-5 Glyceryl Triisostearate, Tocopherol, Rosa Damascena Flower Oil, Pelargonium Graveolens Oil, Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil, Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil, Rosa Canina Fruit Oil, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, Alaria Esculenta Extract, Physalis Angulata Extract, Undaria Pinnatifida Extract, Passiflora Edulis Seed Oil, Salvia Hispanica Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Crithmum Maritimum Extract, Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil, Phoenix Dactylifera Seed Extract, Citrullus Lanatus Seed Oil, Solanum Lycopersicum Fruit/Leaf/Stem Extract, Persea Gratissima Oil, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Squalene, Jojoba Oil/Macadamia Seed Oil Esters, Phytosteryl Macadamiate, Echium Plantagineum Seed Oil, Cardiospermum Halicacabum Flower/Leaf/Vine Extract, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil Unsaponifiables, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Oryza Sativa Germ Oil, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, Prinsepia Utilis Seed Oil, Lupinus Albus Seed Extract, Irvingia Gabonensis Kernel Butter, Brassica Campestris Sterols, Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides, Octyldodecanol, Phytosterols, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Phenoxyethanol
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideEthylhexyl Palmitate, also known as octyl palmitate, is created from 2-ethylhexyl alcohol and palmitic acid.
In cosmetics, it plays many roles:
One thing worth noting: a controlled study found this ingredient applied under occlusion to acne-prone subjects increased microcomedones. Just keep in mind this was under occlusive conditions and don't reflect how most products are used day-to-day.
For most people, this is a well-tolerated and lightweight ingredient.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because it is an ester of palmitic acid, a C16 fatty acid that falls within the C11-24 range that Malassezia can metabolize.
Learn more about Ethylhexyl PalmitateLimnanthes Alba Seed Oil is from the seeds of the meadowfoam plant. It is a skin conditioning agent and emollient that sits on top of skin to soften and hydrate it.
Over 98% of the oil is made up of long-chain fatty acids, mostly aachidic acid (61%), docosenoic acid (~16%), and docosadienoic acid (~18%).
This combination is not really found in any other plant oil and is the reason this is one of the most stable botanical oils available.
Some studies show it to be more stable than jojoba oil, helps a product resist going rancid, and can help extend the shelf life of a formula.
It also naturally contains vitamin E and phytosterols that give it a mild antioxidant benefit.
This ingredient is typically used from around 1% to fairly high levels since it's gentle; it's well-tolerated and low on the irritation scale.
Learn more about Limnanthes Alba Seed OilOryza Sativa Germ Oil is an oil expressed from the germs of rice kernels.
Germs are not bacteria but rather a part of rice kernel that allows new plants to germinate.
Like other plant oils, this can help nourish the skin. The germ of rice is rich in oils, vitamins, minerals, antioxidants, and protein.
This ingredient may not be fungal-acne safe.
Learn more about the benefits of rice extract.
Learn more about Oryza Sativa Germ OilPEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate is a synthetic, oil-loving helper ingredient that does two jobs:
This ingredient is made by joining three building blocks: PEG, Isostearic Acid and glycerin. The PEG gives it the oil-and-water blending power.
This ingredient has been found safe for use in cosmetics and broader PEG family testing shows minimal irritation/sensitization. The molecule's large size also means it isn't expected to penetrate skin to any meaningful degree.
Fungal acne note: This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe due to isostearic acid (C18). Isostearic acid falls into the C11-24 range that Malassezia can feed on.
Learn more about PEG-20 Glyceryl TriisostearatePEG-5 Glyceryl Triisostearate isn't fungal acne safe.
Pelargonium Graveolens Oil is the pressed oil of the Rose Geranium plant. It has perfuming and masking properties.
This ingredient contains citronellol and geraniol. These compounds may cause allergies and skin-sensitivity.
The scent of Rose Geranium closely resembles. you guessed it: roses.
Learn more about Pelargonium Graveolens OilThis ingredient is also known as Avocado oil. It's the cold-pressed oil from the flesh of the avocado fruit packed with fatty acids (mostly oleic acid).
The rich fatty acid profile allows it to function as a skin conditioning agent and emollient; it helps soften and smooth skin while reducing water loss.
Preclinical research has found that topical avocado oil increased collagen synthesis and reduced inflammation during wound healing, giving it some skin-repairing credibility.
The unsaponifiable fraction of the oil is also interesting: studies on avocado unsaponifiables showed that it helped skin produce more collagen and other structural compounds that support healing.
The CIR Expert Panel has found this ingredient to be non-irritating in formulations.
It's a great ingredient for dry or compromised skin. Just know it may not be fungal acne safe. This is because the oleic acid content falls within the range that Malassezia can use as a food source.
Learn more about Persea Gratissima OilPhenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Phytosterols are plant-derived sterols (you can think of them as the plant world's version of cholesterol). In cosmetics, this ingredient is usually sourced from soybean, rice bran, shea, sunflower, and other seed oils.
The main actors in this group are β-sitosterol, campesterol, and stigmasterol (the CIR covers 27 phytosterols).
They work by fitting perfectly into your stratum corneum's lipid matrix since they're structurally similar to cholesterol. Here, they reinforce your skin's barrier.
One small in vivo human study showed topical soybean phytosterols sped up barrier recovery within three days on tape-stripped skin.
Broader research credits them with:
Formulation use typically sit under 5%.
Testing in soy-allergic subjects found no sensitization signals, but be sure to patch test if you are unsure or have existing allergies.
Learn more about PhytosterolsRosa Canina Fruit Oil is a non-fragrant plant oil that has earned its skincare reputation through chemistry.
It's dominated by fatty acids like linoleic acid (~35-55%), alpha-linolenic acid (~17-27%), and oleic acid (~14-22%). This is the exact profile that supports skin barrier, locks in hydration, and calms inflammation.
A 2024 review found evidence for the Rosa canina species supports its use for scarring, hyperpigmentation, wrinkles, and atopic dermatitis; this was mostly credited to its vitamin C content and fatty acid composition as the primary active mechanisms.
You might see this ingredient marketed as a "natural retinol". Some rosehip seed oils contains traces of all-trans-retinoic acid but these trace amounts are far below biologically active levels.
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Panel has deemed this ingredient safe and it's well-tolerated.
Fungal acne: The fatty acids of this oil fall into the C11-24 range that Malassezia yeast can metabolize, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Rosa Canina Fruit OilJojoba oil is one of the most well-studied plant-derived ingredients in cosmetics. It is an emollient with a special structure.
Because it is made up of 97-98% wax esters, it closely mirrors the linear monoesters found in human sebum. This makes it skin compatible, non-greasy, and lightweight.
Unlike other plant oils, jojoba wax doesn't easily penetrate skin. It mostly works in the uppermost layers as an emollient. This just means it forms a light barrier on the skin to help retain moisture.
Formulations with jojoba esters up to 90% reduced transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and increased barrier recovery by 81% (outperforming bisabolol at 47%).
Besides barrier support, the science also suggests jojoba to have anti-inflammatory effects and potential applications for skin infections, aging, and wound healing.
Fun fact: Indigenous cultures have used jojoba as a moisturizer and to help treat burns for centuries.
Fungal acne: The Malassezia yeast is known to metabolize fatty acids in the C11-24 range and jojoba's dominant fatty acid components fall into this range. This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Simmondsia Chinensis Seed OilSynthetic Wax is a manufactured hydrocarbon wax. In formulas, it works as an occlusive emollient that helps reduce water loss and improves the spreadability of products.
Research comparing synthetic wax to traditional mineral-derived products found that formulas containing it perform as well for skin hydration.
It is considered non-comedogenic and vegan-friendly.
This ingredient has a well-established safety record by the CIR Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety.
Synthetic Waxes are straight/branched-chain hydrocarbons with no ester bond or fatty acids. That means there is nothing for the Malassezia yeast to feed on.
Learn more about Synthetic WaxTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolVitis Vinifera Seed Oil comes from the grape vine. Grape seeds are a byproduct of creating grape juice or wine.
The components of grape seeds have many skin benefits. Research has found it to be antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory. It also contains many potent antioxidants such as Vitamin E , Vitamin C, proanthocyanidins, polyphenols, flavonoids, and anthocyanins. Proanthocyanidin has been shown to help even out skin tone.
Antioxidants help fight free-radical molecules. Free-radical molecules are capable of damaging our cells and other genetic material. Antioxidants help stabilize free-radicals by donating extra electrons. Grape seed extract may help reduce the signs of aging.
The antimicrobial properties of grape seed may help treat acne. However, more research is needed to support this claim.
Grape seed has also been found to help absorb UV rays. Grape seed extract should not replace your sunscreen.
The fatty acids of grape seed oil give it emollient properties. Emollients help soothe and soften your skin by creating a film. This film traps moisture within, keeping your skin hydrated.
Learn more about Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil