What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingButylene Glycol
HumectantTocopherol
AntioxidantTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantMethyl Trimethicone
Skin ConditioningTrehalose
HumectantPanthenol
Skin ConditioningButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientPolyglyceryl-10 Stearate
Skin ConditioningAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingGlycine Soja Oil
EmollientHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingParfum
MaskingCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingTromethamine
BufferingGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientSodium Sulfite
PreservativeAllantoin
Skin ConditioningGlyceryl Caprylate
EmollientGardenia Florida Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningStearic Acid
CleansingPolyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
EmulsifyingPalmitic Acid
EmollientDisodium EDTA
Ethylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningRetinol
Skin ConditioningDextrin
AbsorbentSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingCeramide AP
Skin Conditioning1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningMadecassoside
AntioxidantTranexamic Acid
AstringentHedychium Coronarium Root Extract
MaskingBHT
AntioxidantMyristic Acid
CleansingLauric Acid
CleansingAscorbic Acid
AntioxidantLimnanthes Alba Seed Oil
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl Glycol
Emollient3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin ConditioningPropanediol
SolventGlutathione
Acetyl Heptapeptide-4
HumectantSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantHydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
HumectantAcetyl Hexapeptide-8
HumectantSodium Hydroxide
BufferingSodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
HumectantHyaluronic Acid
HumectantSodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
HumectantAcetyl Octapeptide-3
HumectantWater, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Butylene Glycol, Tocopherol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Methyl Trimethicone, Trehalose, Panthenol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Cetearyl Alcohol, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Glycine Soja Oil, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Parfum, Carbomer, Tromethamine, Glyceryl Stearate, Sodium Sulfite, Allantoin, Glyceryl Caprylate, Gardenia Florida Fruit Extract, Stearic Acid, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Palmitic Acid, Disodium EDTA, Ethylhexylglycerin, Retinol, Dextrin, Sorbitan Isostearate, Ceramide AP, 1,2-Hexanediol, Madecassoside, Tranexamic Acid, Hedychium Coronarium Root Extract, BHT, Myristic Acid, Lauric Acid, Ascorbic Acid, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, Caprylyl Glycol, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Propanediol, Glutathione, Acetyl Heptapeptide-4, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Acetyl Octapeptide-3
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantLactose
HumectantC12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialCetearyl Ethylhexanoate
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientPEG-100 Stearate
SurfactantPEG-8
HumectantRetinol
Skin ConditioningDihydroxy Methylchromone
AntioxidantMagnesium Aspartate
Skin ConditioningZinc Gluconate
Skin ConditioningCopper Gluconate
Skin ConditioningPanthenol
Skin ConditioningTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantAscorbic Acid
AntioxidantSorbitol
HumectantStearyl Alcohol
EmollientIsopropyl Myristate
EmollientPropyl Gallate
AntioxidantTromethamine
BufferingCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingMethyl Methacrylate/Glycol Dimethacrylate Crosspolymer
Chlorhexidine Digluconate
AntimicrobialPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningDisodium EDTA
BHT
AntioxidantCitric Acid
BufferingWater, Glycerin, Lactose, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, PEG-8, Retinol, Dihydroxy Methylchromone, Magnesium Aspartate, Zinc Gluconate, Copper Gluconate, Panthenol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ascorbic Acid, Sorbitol, Stearyl Alcohol, Isopropyl Myristate, Propyl Gallate, Tromethamine, Carbomer, Polysorbate 20, Methyl Methacrylate/Glycol Dimethacrylate Crosspolymer, Chlorhexidine Digluconate, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Disodium EDTA, BHT, Citric Acid
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Ascorbic Acid is is pure Vitamin C and is the biologically active form used directly by skin.
Not only is vitamin C great for your overall health and immune system, but it also has plenty of benefits for your skin. It is best supported by academic literature for:
Topical vitamin C has been shown to help neutralize oxidative stress from UV and pollution, helping to improve photoaging and hyperpigmentation when used consistently.
One clinical study found that using 5% topical vitamin C for six months improved signs of photodamaged skin, both on the surface and in the deeper structural layers of the skin.
While vitamin C doesn’t replace sunscreen, studies show it can boost photoprotection when combined with Vitamin E and ferulic acid. These two ingredients help improve stability and protective effects.
The big downside of this ingredient is formulation difficulty. Vitamin C is prone to oxidation and doesn't penetrate the skin unless formulated correctly. Research found that vitamin C absorbs into the skin best at a low pH (< 3.5) with about 20% being the upper limit for effective absorption.
Skin levels can saturate after repeated application; this means your skin won’t keep absorbing more once it’s full of vitamin C. This is why more isn’t always better with vitamin C and why very high concentrations don’t necessarily give extra benefits.
Ascorbic acid generally works well with many skincare ingredients but can be irritating when combined with other active ingredients. Strong oxidizing acne treatments like benzoyl peroxide can reduce the effectiveness of vitamin C if they are used at the same time; they are often recommended for use at different times of day.
Read more about other types of Vitamin C:
Foods rich with vitamin C include oranges, strawberries, broccoli, bell peppers, and more. When consuming Vitamin C, your skin receives a portion of the nutrients.
Learn more about Ascorbic AcidBHT is a synthetic antioxidant and preservative.
As an antioxidant, it helps your body fight off free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells.
As a preservative, it is used to stabilize products and prevent them from degrading. Specifically, BHT prevents degradation from oxidation.
The concerns related to BHT come from oral studies; this ingredient is currently allowed for use by both the FDA and EU.
However, it was recently restricted for use in the UK as of April 2024.
Learn more about BHTCarbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.
Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.
It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.
Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.
A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.
Learn more about CarbomerDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearatePanthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Learn more about PanthenolRetinol is one of the most studied anti-aging ingredients in skincare (and for good reason!).
It's a form of vitamin A that your skin converts into Retinoic Acid, the active molecule that actually does the work in your cells.
That conversion happens in two steps: your skin first turns Retinol into Retinaldehyde (also called Retinal), then turns Retinaldehyde into Retinoic Acid.
Retinol is converted to biologically active retinoic acid via retinaldehyde by dehydrogenases in a two-step oxidation process.
Each step is a little "upgrade" toward the active form which is part of why Retinol is gentler than prescription Retinoic Acid; your skin does the work gradually. This also explains where Retinol sits in the retinoid family.
Here is the retinoid family ranked roughly by strength: Retinyl Esters (like Retinyl Palmitate) < Retinol < Retinaldehyde < Retinoic Acid.
Retinoid activity increases in that order, while tolerance runs in reverse; retinyl esters are the gentlest and retinoic acid the most irritating.
The more conversion steps an ingredient needs, the gentler (and slower) it tends to be, so Retinol lands in a nice middle spot. It's more effective than the esters, gentler than prescription options.
Once it becomes Retinoic Acid, it binds to receptors inside your cells' nuclei (called RARs and RXRs). These receptor pairs bind to specific DNA motifs called retinoic acid response elements and act like switches that turn certain genes on or off.
In practice, this means a few things happen in a formula. It:
That last two are worth a closer look.
A study that tested Retinol directly (not just prescription Retinoic Acid) found that four weeks of retinol thickened the epidermis and switched on the genes for Collagen I and Collagen III, with more procollagen I and III showing up in the skin. And after twelve weeks, facial wrinkles were visibly reduced.
Retinoids more broadly stimulate the skin's synthesis of hyaluronan and other glycosaminoglycans, part of what gives skin a plumper, more hydrated look over time.
So even the gentler OTC form is doing real structural work (not just sitting on the surface).
It's also worth knowing Retinol isn't only a wrinkle ingredient; it can help with uneven tone, dark spots, rough texture, and the look of pores as well because it speeds up turnover and influences pigment.
The research backs this up as well.
A pooled analysis of six clinical studies found that 0.1% stabilized retinol improved all signs of photoaging versus vehicle as early as week 4 and through 12 weeks, with only a few mild cases of irritation.
Another study comparing concentrations found that 0.3% and 1% Retinol were similarly effective at remodeling photodamaged skin, but 0.3% caused fewer adverse reactions when used daily (a useful reminder that more isn't always better).
Retinol is about tenfold less potent than Retinoic Acid. This is why it works as a gentler, non-prescription option that builds results over time.
Typical concentrations range from 0.1-1%, with 0.1% to 0.3% being a well-supported sweet spot for visible benefits with good tolerability.
One quirk worth mentioning: Retinol is famously unstable.
It's highly sensitive to light and oxygen, and UV exposure breaks it down into a range of degradation products.
Real-world testing bears this out, with retinoid content in some products dropping anywhere from 0% to 80% after six months at room temperature, and even more at higher temperatures.
This is why good formulations lean on opaque, air-tight packaging (think tubes and pumps, not clear jars) and often "encapsulate" the Retinol to shield it.
Signs of oxidation include your product turning yellow or smelling "off". Keeping it somewhere cool and dark, and using it up within a few months of opening helps it stay effective.
The most common side effects are mild and temporary: usually some dryness, redness, or light peeling as your skin adjusts. These tend to settle with consistent and lower-frequency use.
Like all retinoids, Retinol works best with nightly use, a good moisturizer, and daytime sunscreen.
The "ramp up" method works well: start with Retinol once a week to give your skin time to adjust, which keeps irritation low. Slowly add more nights until you reach your goal frequency once your skin feels comfortable.
Retinoids also make your skin more sensitive to the sun in the first few weeks, so wear sunscreen every morning and protect your skin from direct sun while you build up tolerance.
One safety note: topical Retinoids aren't recommended during pregnancy or breastfeeding. Systemic absorption from creams is low but because high oral vitamin A is a known teratogen and topical safety data are limited, most clinicians recommend stopping retinoids when pregnant or trying to conceive.
Learn more about RetinolTocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.
Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.
It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.
One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.
Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.
Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.
The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.
Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.
Learn more about Tocopheryl AcetateTromethamine (aka THAM) is a synthetic amino acid that shows up in skincare as a helper ingredient.
It functions as a pH adjuster to help neutralize acidic ingredients and set a formula's pH to the right spot.
This matters a lot because a lot of actives (like vitamin C) needs a specific pH to work well and feel comfortable on skin.
Concentration use ranges from 0.1-1.0% depending on the formula.
Learn more about TromethamineWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water