What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningMethylpropanediol
SolventGlycerin
HumectantHydrogenated Polydecene
EmollientDipropylene Glycol
HumectantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingPentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientNiacinamide
SmoothingBetaine
HumectantPanthenol
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientPhenyl Trimethicone
Skin ConditioningVinyldimethicone
Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin)
Emollient1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningDimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Skin ConditioningHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingC10-18 Triglycerides
EmollientSodium Stearoyl Glutamate
CleansingHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantJojoba Esters
EmollientGlyceryl Stearates
EmollientBehenyl Alcohol
EmollientCetyl Alcohol
EmollientStearyl Alcohol
EmollientEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Xanthan Gum
EmulsifyingOlea Europaea Fruit Oil
MaskingHelianthus Annuus Seed Wax
Skin ConditioningPolyglyceryl-10 Myristate
Skin ConditioningDisodium EDTA
Adenosine
Skin ConditioningSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingButylene Glycol
HumectantMalt Extract
Skin ProtectingPolyglycerin-3
HumectantCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningAstaxanthin
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientArginine
MaskingCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingTocopherol
AntioxidantSodium Dna
Skin ConditioningTetrapeptide-1
Skin ConditioningHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingCitric Acid
BufferingSodium Phosphate
BufferingSh-Oligopeptide-1
Skin ConditioningSh-Oligopeptide-2
Skin ConditioningSh-Polypeptide-1
Skin ConditioningSh-Polypeptide-19
Skin ConditioningWater, Methylpropanediol, Glycerin, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Dipropylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Glyceryl Stearate, Niacinamide, Betaine, Panthenol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Phenyl Trimethicone, Vinyldimethicone, Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin), 1,2-Hexanediol, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, C10-18 Triglycerides, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Hydroxyacetophenone, Jojoba Esters, Glyceryl Stearates, Behenyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Xanthan Gum, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax, Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate, Disodium EDTA, Adenosine, Sorbitan Isostearate, Butylene Glycol, Malt Extract, Polyglycerin-3, Ceramide NP, Astaxanthin, Caprylyl Glycol, Arginine, Carbomer, Tocopherol, Sodium Dna, Tetrapeptide-1, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Citric Acid, Sodium Phosphate, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Sh-Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Polypeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-19
Water
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingDicaprylyl Carbonate
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate Citrate
EmollientButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin Conditioning1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningCoco-Caprylate
EmollientC12-16 Alcohols
EmollientPalmitic Acid
EmollientHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantC15-23 Alkane
SolventDecyl Glucoside
CleansingGlyceryl Caprylate
EmollientSodium Lauroyl Lactylate
EmulsifyingAllantoin
Skin ConditioningC13-14 Alkane
SolventLecithin
EmollientPropanediol
SolventChondrus Crispus Extract
Skin ConditioningXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingAvena Sativa Kernel Flour
AbrasiveAcetyl Glutamine
Skin ConditioningEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantCeramide AP
Skin ConditioningCholesterol
EmollientPhytosphingosine
Skin ConditioningSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientSqualane
EmollientPlukenetia Volubilis Seed Oil
EmollientCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingBacillus/Folic Acid Ferment Filtrate Extract
AntioxidantSh-Oligopeptide-1
Skin ConditioningSh-Oligopeptide-2
Skin ConditioningSh-Polypeptide-1
Skin ConditioningSh-Polypeptide-11
Sh-Polypeptide-9
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantWithania Somnifera Root Extract
Skin ConditioningGlutathione
Ceramide EOP
Skin ConditioningWater, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, 1,2-Hexanediol, Coco-Caprylate, C12-16 Alcohols, Palmitic Acid, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Hydroxyacetophenone, C15-23 Alkane, Decyl Glucoside, Glyceryl Caprylate, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Allantoin, C13-14 Alkane, Lecithin, Propanediol, Chondrus Crispus Extract, Xanthan Gum, Avena Sativa Kernel Flour, Acetyl Glutamine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Ceramide NP, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Ceramide AP, Cholesterol, Phytosphingosine, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Squalane, Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Oil, Carbomer, Bacillus/Folic Acid Ferment Filtrate Extract, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Sh-Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Polypeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-11, Sh-Polypeptide-9, Tocopherol, Withania Somnifera Root Extract, Glutathione, Ceramide EOP
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.Â
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservativesÂ
This ingredient is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping the skin prevent moisture loss.
It helps thicken a product's formula and makes it easier to spread by dissolving clumping compounds.
Caprylic Triglyceride is made by combining glycerin with coconut oil, forming a clear liquid. Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. It is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid. In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Be sure to patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCaprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid or alcohol, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Learn more about Caprylyl GlycolCarbomer is a high-molecular weight polymer of acrylic acid. It is used to form gels and thicken formulas.
Due to its large molecular size, carbomer has minimal skin penetration and is considered an inert ingredient.
A high amount of carbomer can cause pilling or balling up of products. Don't worry, most products contain 1% or less of carbomer.
Learn more about CarbomerCeramide NP (formerly known as Ceramide 3) is one of the skin's naturally occurring lipids.
Since ceramides are the major lipid components of the skin, they are crucial for maintaining skin barrier and hydration. Ceramide NP most closely mirrors the dominant kind in human skin amongst ceramide subtypes.
This ceramide works by slotting into gaps within the stratum corneum's lipid matrix to limit trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and shield the skin against external irritants.
A study with 312 patients found that using a ceramide-containing routine for 4 weeks reduced the severity of atopic dermatitis by over 61%.
Another clinical study in subjects aged 60 and older found that a ceramide body wash and moisturizer improved skin dryness and itchy skin in 15 days.
Overall, ceramides are considered non-irritating and safety tests have found little to no observable adverse effects from using this ingredient.
Ceramide NP is usually sourced from plants (like soybean or rice bran), or produced synthetically.
Learn more about Ceramide NPCetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHydrogenated Lecithin is a more stable version of lecithin.
It's made by taking lecithin (a phospholipid commonly found in soybeans and egg yolks) and hydrogenating it. This just means the unsaturated fatty acids are turned into saturated ones so they don't go bad as easily.
This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.
Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.
Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.
A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).
Learn more about Hydrogenated LecithinHydroxyacetophenone is antioxidant with skin conditioning and soothing properties. It also boosts the efficiency of preservatives.
Though naturally occuring in Norwegian spruce needles, this ingredient is usually synthetically created.
This ingredient is not irritating or sensitizing. Recent research also suggests it may have skin-brightening effects through tyrosinase inhibition.
Learn more about HydroxyacetophenoneThis is a synthetic polymer. It helps improve the texture of products by adding thickness and gel-like feel.
It is also an emulsifer, meaning it prevents ingredients such as oil and water from separating. It also helps evenly disperse other ingredients.
sh-Oligopeptide-1 is a peptide found naturally in our bodies. Peptides are the building blocks for collagen and elastin in our skin.
In cosmetics, this ingredient is bioengineered to be identical to a human gene that codes for epidermal growth factor (EGF). EGF are signal molecules that simulate cell growth and healing.
Studies find EGF help with:
In South Korea and China, EGF is considered a controversial ingredient. The South Korean Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has cracked down on companies with products including EGF due to false advertisement claims.
According to Dr. Zoe Draelos, growth factors have some drawbacks:
There is also controversy surrounding growth factors. The controversy is due to their mitogenic activity, or their ability to increase the number of cells. It is best to avoid using growth factors if you have psoriasis or are at risk of skin cancer. However, it should be noted EGF are not mutagenic - meaning they will not cause cancer.
Learn more about Sh-Oligopeptide-1This peptide has similar properties to Sh-Oligopeptide-1.
In cosmetics, this ingredient is bioengineered to be identical to a human gene that codes for epidermal growth factor (EGF). EGF are signal molecules that simulate cell growth and healing.
There is also controversy surrounding EGF. The controversy is due to their mitogenic activity, or their ability to increase the number of cells. It is best to avoid using growth factors if you have psoriasis or are at risk of skin cancer. However, it should be noted EGF are not mutagenic - meaning they will not cause cancer.
Learn more about Sh-Oligopeptide-2Sh-Polypeptide-1 is a signal peptide that tells our cells to create more fibroblast cells. Fibroblasts maintain skin structure and plays a role in wound healing.
It is important to note this ingredient is mitogenic and not mutagenic. Meaning it will stimulate cell multiplication, and will not cause cancer.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum