What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantDimethicone
EmollientPrunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil
MaskingAlcohol Denat.
AntimicrobialPEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate
EmulsifyingAmmonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Emulsion StabilisingZea Mays Starch
AbsorbentPropylene Glycol
HumectantFagus Sylvatica Bud Extract
TonicAcetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester
Skin ConditioningCaffeine
Skin ConditioningCalcium Gluconate
HumectantCapryloyl Salicylic Acid
ExfoliatingCitric Acid
BufferingMagnesium Gluconate
Skin ConditioningPentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
AntioxidantTrisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil
Skin ConditioningOctyldodecanol
EmollientAcrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingButylene Glycol
HumectantDimethyl Isosorbide
SolventHydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingIsohexadecane
EmollientPolysorbate 80
EmulsifyingSodium Polyacrylate Starch
AbsorbentSorbitan Laurate
EmulsifyingSorbitan Oleate
EmulsifyingTocopherol
AntioxidantXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingAlpha-Isomethyl Ionone
PerfumingCitronellol
PerfumingGeraniol
PerfumingLimonene
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingBenzoic Acid
MaskingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeSorbic Acid
PreservativeParfum
MaskingWater, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil, Alcohol Denat., PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Zea Mays Starch, Propylene Glycol, Fagus Sylvatica Bud Extract, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Caffeine, Calcium Gluconate, Capryloyl Salicylic Acid, Citric Acid, Magnesium Gluconate, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil, Octyldodecanol, Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, Butylene Glycol, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Isohexadecane, Polysorbate 80, Sodium Polyacrylate Starch, Sorbitan Laurate, Sorbitan Oleate, Tocopherol, Xanthan Gum, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Citronellol, Geraniol, Limonene, Linalool, Benzoic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Sorbic Acid, Parfum
Water
Skin ConditioningDimethicone
EmollientSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientHydrogenated Castor Oil Dimer Dilinoleate
Skin ConditioningAlcohol Denat.
AntimicrobialHydroxypropyl Tetrahydropyrantriol
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantIsononyl Isononanoate
EmollientPropanediol
SolventPropylene Glycol
HumectantCetyl Alcohol
EmollientCetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingHydrolyzed Rice Protein
Skin ConditioningAcetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester
Skin ConditioningCapryloyl Salicylic Acid
ExfoliatingSodium Citrate
BufferingSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantSodium Hydroxide
BufferingAscorbyl Glucoside
AntioxidantRetinyl Palmitate
Skin ConditioningSilica
AbrasiveButylene Glycol
HumectantCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientHydrated Silica
AbrasiveHydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningPolysorbate 60
EmulsifyingSilica Dimethyl Silylate
EmollientSorbitan Laurate
EmulsifyingTocopherol
AntioxidantXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingBenzyl Alcohol
PerfumingCitronellol
PerfumingIsoeugenol
PerfumingLimonene
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeParfum
MaskingWater, Dimethicone, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Castor Oil Dimer Dilinoleate, Alcohol Denat., Hydroxypropyl Tetrahydropyrantriol, Glycerin, Isononyl Isononanoate, Propanediol, Propylene Glycol, Cetyl Alcohol, Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, Centella Asiatica Extract, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Capryloyl Salicylic Acid, Sodium Citrate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hydroxide, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Retinyl Palmitate, Silica, Butylene Glycol, Caprylyl Glycol, Hydrated Silica, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Pentylene Glycol, Polysorbate 60, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Sorbitan Laurate, Tocopherol, Xanthan Gum, Benzyl Alcohol, Citronellol, Isoeugenol, Limonene, Linalool, Phenoxyethanol, Parfum
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester is a peptide composed of amino acids arginine and tyrosine.
This peptide is considered a neurotransmitter peptide, meaning it has pain-relieving and relaxing properties. It has the ability to calm skin irritation from external factors such as chemical stinging or heat.
Neurotransmitter peptides are also often called "botox in a bottle". This is because these peptides have the ability to relax the muscles.
Though relaxing the muscles can prevent expression lines (as we have seen in botox), the studies do not show these peptides to be a botox replacement. The effects of this muscle relaxation is also short-term, as opposed to longer-term results from botox.
Learn more about Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl EsterAlcohol Denat. is an alcohol with a denaturant property. It is created by mixing ethanol with other additives.
This ingredient gets a bad rep because it is irritating and drying - mostly due to its astringent property. Astringents draw out natural oils in tissue, constricting pores and leaving your skin dried out.
However, alcohol denat. is not all that bad.
Due to its low molecular weight, alcohol denat. tends to evaporate quickly. One study on pig skin found half of applied alcohol evaporated in 10 seconds and less than 3% stayed on skin.
This also helps other ingredients become better absorbed upon application.
Studies are conflicted about whether this ingredient causes skin dehydration. One study from 2005 found adding emollients to propanol-based sanitizer decreased skin dryness and irritation. Another study found irritation only occurs if your skin is already damaged.
Small amounts of alcohol are generally tolerated by oily skin or people who live in humid environments.
The rule of thumb is if this alcohol is near the end of an ingredients list, it will probably not affect your skin much.
Also...
This ingredient has antimicrobial and solvent properties.
The antimicrobial property helps preserve products and increase their shelf life. As a solvent, it helps dissolve other ingredients.
Other types of astringent alcohols include:
Learn more about Alcohol Denat.Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolCapryloyl Salicylic Acid comes from salicylic acid, the famous acne-fighting BHA.
It usually goes by a more common name of LHA, or lipohydroxy acid.
Like salicylic acid, this ingredient is a chemical exfoliant that can help break down the oil in your pores and reduce inflammation.
Though studies for LHA do show it to be less effective than salicylic acid. To be fair, salicylic acid is the reigning monarch of acne treatments.
However, a study from 2009 found LHA to be comparable to BPO, making it a good alternative for people with sensitive skin. Another study of 14 patients found a significant decrease in comedones after using LHA.
Another pro of LHA? It is less irritating than salicylic acid due to its large molecule size.
Large molecules cannot penetrate skin as well, so they are gentler on the skin. LHA is much less penetrative than salicylic acid.
An in-vitro study (not done on a living organism) found only 6% of LHA penetrated past the statum corneum compared to 58% of salicylic acid. An in-vivo (done on a living organism) analysis revealed ~17% of LHA was still present in the top layer of skin after 4 days, versus ~9% of salicylic acid.
Interestingly, a study from 2008 found LHA comparable to another famous acid, glycolic acid.
This study found about 10% of LHA is as effective as 20-50% of glycolic acid in treating hyperpigmentation and fine-lines.
Hydroxy acids have been found to stimulate skin protein, lipids, and thermal thickening. This may have anti-aging benefits.
Learn more about Capryloyl Salicylic AcidCitronellol is used to add fragrance/parfum to a product. It is often derived from plants such as roses. In fact, it can be found in many essential oils including geranium, lavender, neroli, and more. The scent of Citronellol is often described as "fresh, grassy, and citrus-like".
Since the Citronellol molecule is already unstable, Citronellol becomes irritating on the skin when exposed to air.
Citronellol is a modified terpene. Terpenes are unsaturated hydrocarbons found in plants. They make up the primary part of essential oils.
Citronellol is not able to be absorbed into deeper layers of the skin. It has low permeability,
Citronellol is also a natural insect repellent.
Learn more about CitronellolDimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Learn more about DimethiconeGlycerin is already naturally found in your skin. It helps moisturize and protect your skin.
A study from 2016 found glycerin to be more effective as a humectant than AHAs and hyaluronic acid.
As a humectant, it helps the skin stay hydrated by pulling moisture to your skin. The low molecular weight of glycerin allows it to pull moisture into the deeper layers of your skin.
Hydrated skin improves your skin barrier; Your skin barrier helps protect against irritants and bacteria.
Glycerin has also been found to have antimicrobial and antiviral properties. Due to these properties, glycerin is often used in wound and burn treatments.
In cosmetics, glycerin is usually derived from plants such as soybean or palm. However, it can also be sourced from animals, such as tallow or animal fat.
This ingredient is organic, colorless, odorless, and non-toxic.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHydroxyethylcellulose is used to improve the texture of products. It is created from a chemical reaction involving ethylene oxide and alkali-cellulose. Cellulose is a sugar found in plant cell walls and help give plants structure.
This ingredient helps stabilize products by preventing ingredients from separating. It can also help thicken the texture of a product.
This ingredient can also be found in pill medicines to help our bodies digest other ingredients.
Learn more about HydroxyethylcelluloseLimonene is a fragrance that adds scent and taste to a formulation.
It's found in the peel oil of citrus fruits and other plants such as lavender and eucalyptus. The scent of limonene is generally described as "sweet citrus".
Limonene acts as an antioxidant, meaning it helps neutralize free radicals.
When exposed to air, oxidized limonene may sensitize the skin. Because of this, limonene is often avoided by people with sensitive skin.
The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.
Learn more about LimoneneLinalool is a fragrance and helps add scent to products. It's derived from common plants such as cinnamon, mint, citrus, and lavender.
Like Limonene, this ingredient oxidizes when exposed to air. Oxidized linalool can cause allergies and skin sensitivity.
This ingredient has a scent that is floral, spicy tropical, and citrus-like.
Learn more about LinaloolParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumPhenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Propylene Glycol is an odorless, colorless liquid. As a humectant, it helps skin retain moisture. It also aids in delivering active ingredients.
Another role of this ingredient is preventing a product from melting or freezing. Propylene glycol also adds antimicrobrial properties to a product, elongating product lifespan.
This ingredient is considered an organic alcohol and commonly added into both cosmetics and foods.
Those with sensitive skin or conditions may develop a rash when using this ingredient.
Learn more about Propylene GlycolSorbitan Laurate is created from lauric acid and derivatives from sorbitol. It is an emulsifier.
Tocopherol (also known as Vitamin E) is a common antioxidant used to help protect the skin from free-radicals and strengthen the skin barrier. It's also fat soluble - this means our skin is great at absorbing it.
Vitamin E also helps keep your natural skin lipids healthy. Your lipid skin barrier naturally consists of lipids, ceramides, and fatty acids. Vitamin E offers extra protection for your skin’s lipid barrier, keeping your skin healthy and nourished.
Another benefit is a bit of UV protection. Vitamin E helps reduce the damage caused by UVB rays. (It should not replace your sunscreen). Combining it with Vitamin C can decrease sunburned cells and hyperpigmentation after UV exposure.
You might have noticed Vitamin E + C often paired together. This is because it is great at stabilizing Vitamin C. Using the two together helps increase the effectiveness of both ingredients.
There are often claims that Vitamin E can reduce/prevent scarring, but these claims haven't been confirmed by scientific research.
Learn more about TocopherolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum