What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantCichorium Intybus Root Oligosaccharides
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningCetyl Alcohol
EmollientPrunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Skin ConditioningPropanediol
SolventBakuchiol
AntimicrobialJojoba Esters
EmollientLecithin
EmollientCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningCeramide AP
Skin ConditioningTetraacetylphytosphingosine
Skin ConditioningGlycosphingolipids
EmollientMauritia Flexuosa Pulp Powder
AbrasiveHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingDiosmine
AntioxidantColeus Forskohlii Root Extract
EmollientAcetyl Hexapeptide-8
HumectantPalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin ConditioningCholesterol
EmollientCaesalpinia Spinosa Gum
Skin ConditioningSodium Acrylates Copolymer
Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Skin ConditioningPolyglyceryl-4 Caprate
EmulsifyingGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientHelianthus Annuus Seed Wax
Skin ConditioningSodium Stearoyl Glutamate
CleansingSorbitan Oleate
EmulsifyingGlycine Soja Oil
Emollient1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningGluconolactone
Skin ConditioningStearic Acid
CleansingTocopherol
AntioxidantPolyglycerin-3
HumectantBeta-Sitosterol
Emulsion StabilisingSqualene
EmollientXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeSodium Benzoate
MaskingDisodium EDTA
Ethylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningCalcium Gluconate
HumectantWater, Glycerin, Cichorium Intybus Root Oligosaccharides, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Cetearyl Alcohol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Cetyl Alcohol, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Propanediol, Bakuchiol, Jojoba Esters, Lecithin, Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Tetraacetylphytosphingosine, Glycosphingolipids, Mauritia Flexuosa Pulp Powder, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Diosmine, Coleus Forskohlii Root Extract, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Cholesterol, Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate, Glyceryl Stearate, Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Sorbitan Oleate, Glycine Soja Oil, 1,2-Hexanediol, Gluconolactone, Stearic Acid, Tocopherol, Polyglycerin-3, Beta-Sitosterol, Squalene, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Benzoate, Disodium EDTA, Ethylhexylglycerin, Calcium Gluconate
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientCoconut Alkanes
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientStearic Acid
CleansingVitis Vinifera Juice
AntioxidantPyrus Malus Juice
Skin ConditioningHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate Citrate
EmollientCetyl Alcohol
EmollientStearyl Alcohol
EmollientCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientOenothera Biennis Leaf Cell Extract
Skin ConditioningPistacia Lentiscus Gum
MaskingButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningAcetyl Hexapeptide-8
HumectantLecithin
EmollientHyaluronic Acid
HumectantUbiquinone
AntioxidantTocopherol
AntioxidantPanthenol
Skin ConditioningMagnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate
AntioxidantCoco-Caprylate
EmollientPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningGlyceryl Caprylate
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingVitis Vinifera Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningMalus Domestica Fruit Cell Culture Extract
Skin ConditioningCitrus Limon Leaf Extract
PerfumingCamellia Sinensis Extract
AntioxidantXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingMica
Cosmetic ColorantAllantoin
Skin ConditioningCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningDiheptyl Succinate
EmollientPolyglyceryl-6 Distearate
EmulsifyingCapryloyl Glycerin
Thioctic Acid
AntioxidantAloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Glycerin, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Coconut Alkanes, Glyceryl Stearate, Stearic Acid, Vitis Vinifera Juice, Pyrus Malus Juice, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Cetyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol, Caprylyl Glycol, Oenothera Biennis Leaf Cell Extract, Pistacia Lentiscus Gum, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Lecithin, Hyaluronic Acid, Ubiquinone, Tocopherol, Panthenol, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Coco-Caprylate, Pentylene Glycol, Glyceryl Caprylate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Vitis Vinifera Fruit Extract, Malus Domestica Fruit Cell Culture Extract, Citrus Limon Leaf Extract, Camellia Sinensis Extract, Xanthan Gum, Mica, Allantoin, CI 77891, Ethylhexylglycerin, Diheptyl Succinate, Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate, Capryloyl Glycerin, Thioctic Acid
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (also known as Argireline) is a synthetic hexapeptide that is often called a "topical Botox alternative".
It works by mimicking how Botox relaxes muscles; it interferes with the signaling process that tells your facial muscles to contract. This can help soften expression lines like forehead wrinkles or crow's feet over time.
The comparison to Botox does have limits because the molecule is water-loving and relatively large.
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 has a hard time absorbing deeply enough through the skin's outer barrier to actually reach the muscles.
So whether it truly works the way Botox does at a biological level is still up for debate, but early clinical outcomes are fairly encouraging.
A 12 week human study of a multi-ingredient regimen containing this ingredient saw:
While some studies have observed improvements in wrinkle appearance, it is important to note that more consistent results are seen in multi-ingredient formulations (vs just Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 alone).
Some research studies also used higher concentrations (up to 10%) while this ingredient is usually found in concentrations up to 0.005% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about Acetyl Hexapeptide-8This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Learn more about Butyrospermum Parkii ButterCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol. Fatty Alcohols are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product.
Its main roles are:
Though it has "alcohol" in the name, it is not related to denatured alcohol or ethyl alcohol.
The FDA allows products labeled "alcohol-free" to have fatty alcohols.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. It is a primary fatty alcohol with a chain length above 12 carbons. A study from 2019 show Malassezia can feed on fatty alcohols in this range, so it may trigger fungal acne in those prone to it.
Learn more about Cetyl AlcoholEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearateLecithin is a term for a group of substances found in the cell membranes of plants, animals, and humans. They are made up of phospholipids.
Thanks to its amphiphilic structure (water-loving head and oil-loving tail), it is a true multitasker:
It plays well with most ingredients and is typically used at 0.1-1%. However, concentrations up to 50% have been reported in moisturizers.
Learn more about LecithinJojoba oil is one of the most well-studied plant-derived ingredients in cosmetics. It is an emollient with a special structure.
Because it is made up of 97-98% wax esters, it closely mirrors the linear monoesters found in human sebum. This makes it skin compatible, non-greasy, and lightweight.
Unlike other plant oils, jojoba wax doesn't easily penetrate skin. It mostly works in the uppermost layers as an emollient. This just means it forms a light barrier on the skin to help retain moisture.
Formulations with jojoba esters up to 90% reduced transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and increased barrier recovery by 81% (outperforming bisabolol at 47%).
Besides barrier support, the science also suggests jojoba to have anti-inflammatory effects and potential applications for skin infections, aging, and wound healing.
Fun fact: Indigenous cultures have used jojoba as a moisturizer and to help treat burns for centuries.
Fungal acne: The Malassezia yeast is known to metabolize fatty acids in the C11-24 range and jojoba's dominant fatty acid components fall into this range. This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Simmondsia Chinensis Seed OilStearic Acid is a fatty acid that is already found in your skin. It's one of the free fatty acids that works alongside ceramides and cholesterols to maintain your barrier.
In cosmetics, it is a multitasker:
Safety-wise, the CIR Expert Panel has concluded it to be safe in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.
Free stearic acid is a C18 fatty acid that the Malassezia yeast can substrate, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Stearic AcidTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum