What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
Emollient
Alcohol Denat.
Antimicrobial
Glycerin
Humectant
Niacinamide
Smoothing
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Skin Conditioning
Glycolic Acid
Buffering
Glyceryl Stearate
Emollient
Cetearyl Alcohol
Emollient
Tocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant
Cetyl Alcohol
Emollient
Benzyl Alcohol
Perfuming
PEG-75 Stearate
Surfactant
PEG-100 Stearate
Surfactant
Xanthan Gum
EmulsifyingRetinal
Skin Conditioning
Ceteth-20
CleansingSteareth-20
CleansingDehydroacetic Acid
Preservative
Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Alcohol Denat., Glycerin, Niacinamide, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Glycolic Acid, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Cetyl Alcohol, Benzyl Alcohol, PEG-75 Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Xanthan Gum, Retinal, Ceteth-20, Steareth-20, Dehydroacetic Acid
Water
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Glycerin
Humectant
Propanediol
Solvent
Triheptanoin
Skin ConditioningSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Emollient
Squalane
Emollient
Bentonite
Absorbent
Cyclodextrin
AbsorbentCoco-Caprylate/Caprate
Emollient
Octyldodecanol
Emollient
Cetearyl Alcohol
Emollient
Dimethyl Isosorbide
SolventBacillus Ferment
Skin Conditioning
Alteromonas Ferment Extract
Skin Conditioning
Phaeodactylum Tricornutum Extract
HumectantTocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Emollient
Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters
Skin Conditioning
Olea Europaea Callus Culture Lysate
Skin ConditioningGlyceryl Stearate
Emollient
Jojoba Esters
Emollient
Ribes Nigrum Seed Oil
Emollient
Azelamidopropyl Dimethyl Amine
AntimicrobialCetyl Alcohol
Emollient
Rubus Chamaemorus Seed Oil
Skin Conditioning
Xanthan Gum
EmulsifyingHelianthus Annuus Seed Wax
Skin Conditioning
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate
CleansingHydroxypinacolone Retinoate
Skin Conditioning
Pentylene Glycol
Skin Conditioning
Retinal
Skin Conditioning
Sodium Phytate
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil Unsaponifiables
Emollient
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialLonicera Caprifolium Flower Extract
Perfuming
Tocopherol
Antioxidant
Lonicera Japonica Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningCardiospermum Halicacabum Flower/Leaf/Vine Extract
Skin ConditioningPolyglycerin-3
Humectant
Linoleic Acid
Cleansing
Cyamopsis Tetragonoloba Gum
Emulsion StabilisingButylene Glycol
Humectant
Polyurethane-10
Linolenic Acid
Cleansing
Lactic Acid
Buffering
Hydroxyacetophenone
Antioxidant
Citric Acid
Buffering
Sodium Hydroxide
BufferingBenzyl Alcohol
Perfuming
Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Propanediol, Triheptanoin, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Squalane, Bentonite, Cyclodextrin, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Octyldodecanol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Bacillus Ferment, Alteromonas Ferment Extract, Phaeodactylum Tricornutum Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters, Olea Europaea Callus Culture Lysate, Glyceryl Stearate, Jojoba Esters, Ribes Nigrum Seed Oil, Azelamidopropyl Dimethyl Amine, Cetyl Alcohol, Rubus Chamaemorus Seed Oil, Xanthan Gum, Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, Pentylene Glycol, Retinal, Sodium Phytate, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil Unsaponifiables, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Lonicera Caprifolium Flower Extract, Tocopherol, Lonicera Japonica Flower Extract, Cardiospermum Halicacabum Flower/Leaf/Vine Extract, Polyglycerin-3, Linoleic Acid, Cyamopsis Tetragonoloba Gum, Butylene Glycol, Polyurethane-10, Linolenic Acid, Lactic Acid, Hydroxyacetophenone, Citric Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Benzyl Alcohol
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Benzyl Alcohol is an aromatic alcohol with several roles: it's a preservative, solvent, and mild fragrance component with a floral scent.
This ingredient has been deemed safe for use in cosmetic formulations at concentrations up to 5%, and up to 10% in hair dyes. You'll typically see 0.5-2% in most rinse-off or leave-on products.
As a preservative, it works by disrupting the membrane of microbial proteins. This helps keep bacteria and fungi from growing in your products.
The sensitization picture is actually quite assuring as well:of nearly 71,000 patients patch tested with benzyl alcohol, only 0.21% showed a positive reaction with most of them being weakly positive.
This led researchers to conclude that benzyl alcohol cannot be regarded as a significant contact allergen.
It is worth noting this ingredient is classified as one of the EU's regulated fragrance allergens and restricted to 1% in finished products.
Labels must also declare it in concentrations above 0.001% in leave-on products and 0.01% in rinse-off products.
At concentrations around 5%, localized redness and itching can appear as a direct irritant response and not as a true allergic reaction.
Learn more about Benzyl AlcoholCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholCetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol. Fatty Alcohols are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product.
Its main roles are:
Though it has "alcohol" in the name, it is not related to denatured alcohol or ethyl alcohol.
The FDA allows products labeled "alcohol-free" to have fatty alcohols.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. It is a primary fatty alcohol with a chain length above 12 carbons. A study from 2019 show Malassezia can feed on fatty alcohols in this range, so it may trigger fungal acne in those prone to it.
Learn more about Cetyl AlcoholGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearateRetinal is a form of retinoid. Retinoids are the gold-standard class of anti-aging ingredients.
Retinal has many benefits as other retinoids: improve skin texture, reduce large pores, reduce the effects of aging, reduce the visibility of dark spots, heal scars, and fight acne.
Studies show retinal may work at a faster rate than retinol due to its structure.
All retinoids have to be converted into retinoic acid before starting to work. Some retinoids take several steps of conversion before binding. Retinal is only one step away, making it more potent.
Like other retinoids, retinal may be irritating. It is best to ease into using this ingredient frequently.
Using the 'ramp up' method, start by using retinol once a week. This gives your skin time to adjust and decrease irritation. Once you feel ready, you can slowly increase the frequency of retinol use.
Using retinoids will increase sun-sensitivity in the first few weeks of use. Though studies show retinoids increase your skin's natural SPF with continuous use, it is best to always wear sunscreen and sun-protection.
Learn more about RetinalTocopheryl Acetate is AKA Vitamin E. It is an antioxidant and protects your skin from free radicals. Free radicals damage the skin by breaking down collagen.
One study found using Tocopheryl Acetate with Vitamin C decreased the number of sunburned cells.
Tocopheryl Acetate is commonly found in both skincare and dietary supplements.
Learn more about Tocopheryl AcetateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum
