What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingMacadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
EmollientAlcohol Denat.
AntimicrobialGlycerin
HumectantNiacinamide
SmoothingPrunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Skin ConditioningGlycolic Acid
BufferingGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantCetyl Alcohol
EmollientBenzyl Alcohol
PerfumingPEG-75 Stearate
SurfactantPEG-100 Stearate
SurfactantXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingRetinal
Skin ConditioningCeteth-20
CleansingSteareth-20
CleansingDehydroacetic Acid
PreservativeWater, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Alcohol Denat., Glycerin, Niacinamide, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Glycolic Acid, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Cetyl Alcohol, Benzyl Alcohol, PEG-75 Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Xanthan Gum, Retinal, Ceteth-20, Steareth-20, Dehydroacetic Acid
Water
Skin ConditioningPropanediol
SolventGlycerin
HumectantNiacinamide
SmoothingDiheptyl Succinate
EmollientGluconolactone
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingSqualane
EmollientSodium PCA
HumectantSaccharide Isomerate
HumectantEthyl Macadamiate
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantAllantoin
Skin ConditioningAlbatrellus Confluens Extract
HumectantAsiaticoside
AntioxidantMadecassic Acid
Skin ConditioningAsiatic Acid
Skin ConditioningAscorbic Acid
AntioxidantOrobanche Rapum Extract
Skin ProtectingAcetyl Hexapeptide-8
HumectantDiutan Gum
Cetearyl Olivate
Retinal
Skin ConditioningPhospholipids
Skin ConditioningSorbitan Olivate
EmulsifyingSodium Stearoyl Glutamate
CleansingHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientCapryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer
Skin ConditioningMalic Acid
BufferingLeuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
AntimicrobialSodium Dehydroacetate
PreservativeSodium Benzoate
MaskingSodium Hydroxide
BufferingCitric Acid
BufferingSodium Citrate
BufferingWater, Propanediol, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Diheptyl Succinate, Gluconolactone, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Squalane, Sodium PCA, Saccharide Isomerate, Ethyl Macadamiate, Tocopherol, Allantoin, Albatrellus Confluens Extract, Asiaticoside, Madecassic Acid, Asiatic Acid, Ascorbic Acid, Orobanche Rapum Extract, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Diutan Gum, Cetearyl Olivate, Retinal, Phospholipids, Sorbitan Olivate, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer, Malic Acid, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Sodium Benzoate, Sodium Hydroxide, Citric Acid, Sodium Citrate
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinNiacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Learn more about NiacinamideRetinal (aka retinaldehyde) is a form of retinoid that formulators use mainly as an antiaging and skin-renewing active.
What makes it special is its position in the retinoid family; skin converts it to retinoic acid (the prescription gold standard) in just one step.
Because retinal only requires 1 conversion step to become retinoic acid, it's the strongest over-the-counter retinoid. It also works at lower concentrations than retinol, since retinal is about 10x more bioavailable.
Studies back up its efficacy in skin:
A foundational trial showed that applying 0.05-0.5% retinal for 1-3 months produced a dose-dependent and significant increase in epidermal thickness + cell turnover markers.
And a head-to-head comparison of 0.05% retinal against a 0.05% retinoid acid found both formulations were effective for the basis of wrinkle/skin roughness features, but retinoic acid caused more local irritation.
More recent controlled trials confirm it improves wrinkles, dermal density, and firmness over 12-24 weeks, with significant improvements in skin texture and firmness (particularly with the higher 0.1% concentration).
Retinal also has one trick the other retinoids do not: it directly fights against acne bacteria since a clinical study showed retinaldehyde-treated areas displayed a significant decrease in counts of viable P. acnes.
This makes it a great pick for people who want to treat aging and breakouts.
Typical cosmetic use sits in the 0.05-0.1% range with 0.05% being the gentle starting point and 0.1% giving stronger results.
Like all retinoids, retinal works best with nightly use, a good moisturizer, and daytime sunscreen. It can cause some irritation so ease into it slowly rather than going all in.
The "ramp up" method works well: start with Retinal once a week to give your skin time to adjust, which keeps irritation low.
Slowly add more nights until you reach your goal frequency once your skin feels comfortable.
Retinoids also make your skin more sensitive to the sun in the first few weeks, so wear sunscreen every morning and protect your skin from direct sun while you build up tolerance.
Learn more about RetinalWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water