What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantMethylpropanediol
SolventNiacinamide
SmoothingButylene Glycol
HumectantMethyl Gluceth-20
Humectant1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningPanthenol
Skin ConditioningEthylhexyl Palmitate
EmollientCetyl Ethylhexanoate
EmollientHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantCoptis Japonica Root Extract
Skin ConditioningPropanediol
SolventAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingPolyglyceryl-10 Oleate
Skin ConditioningArginine
MaskingSodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Emulsion StabilisingGlycereth-25 PCA Isostearate
EmulsifyingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningAdenosine
Skin ConditioningHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingZea Mays Kernel Extract
Disodium EDTA
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingBetaine
HumectantAloe Barbadensis Leaf Water
MaskingAscorbic Acid
AntioxidantGlutathione
Actinidia Chinensis Fruit Extract
EmollientHyaluronic Acid
HumectantHydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
HumectantSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantFructan
Skin ConditioningSaccharomyces Ferment Filtrate
HumectantCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialGlucose
HumectantGlyceryl Stearate Citrate
Emollient3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin ConditioningAscorbyl Glucoside
AntioxidantMadecassoside
AntioxidantOryza Sativa Extract
AbsorbentMorus Alba Fruit Extract
AntioxidantChaenomeles Sinensis Fruit Extract
AntioxidantVaccinium Macrocarpon Fruit Extract
AstringentCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningAllantoin
Skin ConditioningAscorbyl Tetraisopalmitate
AntioxidantLycium Chinense Fruit Extract
AntioxidantPhytosphingosine
Skin ConditioningZiziphus Jujuba Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningEriobotrya Japonica Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningMentha Viridis Extract
MaskingPrunus Avium Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningPrunus Persica Fruit Extract
AbrasivePyrus Malus Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningPrunus Salicina Fruit Extract
AntioxidantQuercus Robur Bark Extract
AstringentWater, Glycerin, Methylpropanediol, Niacinamide, Butylene Glycol, Methyl Gluceth-20, 1,2-Hexanediol, Panthenol, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Hydroxyacetophenone, Coptis Japonica Root Extract, Propanediol, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, Arginine, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Glycereth-25 PCA Isostearate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Xanthan Gum, Zea Mays Kernel Extract, Disodium EDTA, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Betaine, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Water, Ascorbic Acid, Glutathione, Actinidia Chinensis Fruit Extract, Hyaluronic Acid, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Fructan, Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Glucose, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Madecassoside, Oryza Sativa Extract, Morus Alba Fruit Extract, Chaenomeles Sinensis Fruit Extract, Vaccinium Macrocarpon Fruit Extract, Ceramide NP, Allantoin, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, Lycium Chinense Fruit Extract, Phytosphingosine, Ziziphus Jujuba Fruit Extract, Eriobotrya Japonica Leaf Extract, Mentha Viridis Extract, Prunus Avium Fruit Extract, Prunus Persica Fruit Extract, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Prunus Salicina Fruit Extract, Quercus Robur Bark Extract
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water
MaskingTriethylhexanoin
MaskingHydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin)
EmollientMethylpropanediol
SolventButylene Glycol
HumectantWater
Skin ConditioningNiacinamide
Smoothing1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningSodium Laureth-4 Phosphate
CleansingGlycerin
HumectantCoptis Japonica Root Extract
Skin ConditioningHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningParfum
MaskingPolyquaternium-51
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantAdenosine
Skin ConditioningTetrahydroxypropyl Ethylenediamine
Tromethamine
BufferingMalachite Extract
AntioxidantHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingFicus Carica Fruit Extract
HumectantLactococcus Ferment Lysate
Skin ConditioningCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningFructooligosaccharides
HumectantArginine
MaskingGlycine
BufferingCyperus Rotundus Root Extract
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientCapryloyl Salicylic Acid
ExfoliatingGluconolactone
Skin ConditioningHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil Unsaponifiables
EmollientSodium Chloride
MaskingAcetyl Hexapeptide-8
HumectantCopper Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningHexapeptide-9
Skin ConditioningNonapeptide-1
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningTripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningAcetyl Tetrapeptide-5
HumectantCamellia Sinensis Leaf Water, Triethylhexanoin, Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin), Methylpropanediol, Butylene Glycol, Water, Niacinamide, 1,2-Hexanediol, Sodium Laureth-4 Phosphate, Glycerin, Coptis Japonica Root Extract, Hydroxyacetophenone, Ethylhexylglycerin, Parfum, Polyquaternium-51, Sodium Hyaluronate, Adenosine, Tetrahydroxypropyl Ethylenediamine, Tromethamine, Malachite Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Centella Asiatica Extract, Ficus Carica Fruit Extract, Lactococcus Ferment Lysate, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Ceramide NP, Fructooligosaccharides, Arginine, Glycine, Cyperus Rotundus Root Extract, Caprylyl Glycol, Capryloyl Salicylic Acid, Gluconolactone, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil Unsaponifiables, Sodium Chloride, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Copper Tripeptide-1, Hexapeptide-9, Nonapeptide-1, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Tripeptide-1, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Learn more about AdenosineArginine is a semi-essential amino acid. This just means our bodies can product a bit on its own, but sometimes needs a little boost from food sources.
It is a part of your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.
Here's an interesting thing about Arginine: your skin converts it into urea through the Krebs-Henseleit urea cycle. Urea is one of the most effective humectants your skin naturally produces.
A clinical study showed applying 2.5% arginine hydrochloride to atopic dermatitis skin showed significant urea levels in the stratum corneum and improved moisture in just four weeks.
Arginine is also a precursor to nitric oxide; nitric oxide improves microcirculation and supports wound healing and collagen synthesis.
One study found that an amino acid complex containing Arginine reduced skin irritation, improved hydration, and accelerated skin repair in clinical / in-vivo studies.
Arginine itself is an amino acid and not a fatty acid, oil, or ester. On its own, it's not a direct food source for Malassezia, or the yeast that causes fungal acne.
Learn more about ArginineButylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract (tea extract) is one of the most well-researched plant extracts in skincare with an impressive resume.
Black tea, green tea, and oolong tea are all harvested from the Camellia Sinensis plant.
Studies show green tea extract and its catechins (like epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG)) help your skin cells product energy more efficiently and reducing the number of free-radicals that can damage your skin from the inside.
In lab-grown skin models, this translated to younger, healthier, and stronger skin.
There's also good sun protection data; researchers saw less DNA damage and redness on human skin when green tea was applied before UVB exposure. And the more they applied, the better the protection.
Needless to say, this ingredient shouldn't replace your sunscreen. But it is a great supportive ingredient that you can already find in many sunscreens and antioxidant serums.
A 2009 study found a 2% green tea lotion was effective for mild-to-moderate acne thanks to its anti-inflammatory and mild antimicrobial activity.
The quality of the extract matters a lot here:
Good extracts contain 50-90% catechins while lower quality ones are mostly there for marketing. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the quality or source of their ingredients.
Human Repeated Insult Patch Testing showed no irritation or sensitization at use concentrations (0.86% in leave-on products and up to 30% as leaf water).
Learn more about Camellia Sinensis Leaf ExtractCeramide NP (formerly known as Ceramide 3) is one of the skin's naturally occurring lipids.
Since ceramides are the major lipid components of the skin, they are crucial for maintaining skin barrier and hydration. Ceramide NP most closely mirrors the dominant kind in human skin amongst ceramide subtypes.
This ceramide works by slotting into gaps within the stratum corneum's lipid matrix to limit trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and shield the skin against external irritants.
A study with 312 patients found that using a ceramide-containing routine for 4 weeks reduced the severity of atopic dermatitis by over 61%.
Another clinical study in subjects aged 60 and older found that a ceramide body wash and moisturizer improved skin dryness and itchy skin in 15 days.
Overall, ceramides are considered non-irritating and safety tests have found little to no observable adverse effects from using this ingredient.
Ceramide NP is usually sourced from plants (like soybean or rice bran), or produced synthetically.
Learn more about Ceramide NPCoptis Japonica Root Extract, also known as Japanese Goldthread, is a traditional East Asian herb. It is prized for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and antimicrobial properties.
That’s not all - research in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science found that its active compound, berberine, may help reduce fat accumulation and slow down fat cell development.
This makes it a promising ingredient for slimming and anti-cellulite products!
Learn more about Coptis Japonica Root ExtractEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHydrogenated Lecithin is a more stable version of lecithin.
It's made by taking lecithin (a phospholipid commonly found in soybeans and egg yolks) and hydrogenating it. This just means the unsaturated fatty acids are turned into saturated ones so they don't go bad as easily.
This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.
Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.
Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.
A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).
Learn more about Hydrogenated LecithinHydroxyacetophenone is a small phenolic molecule that earns its place in a formulas as an antioxidant and preservative booster.
As a phenol, it is able to neutralize free radicals to protect both the product and the skin from oxidative stress.
Though it can't kill microbes on its own, it works as a good supporting agent when combined with other preservatives like Phenoxyethanol or 1,2-Hexanediol.
This ingredient naturally occurs as piceol in Norwegian spruce needles (~0.4-1.1% dry weight and in cloudberries). Though the cosmetic-grade material is synthesized for purity and consistency.
You'll usually see it used at low levels and suppliers recommend up to 1% added to a water phase.
Safety testing was done at concentrations like 0.05% in SPF products and 0.5% in a Human Repeated Insult Patch Test. The safety evidence is assuring; this ingredient is safe for cosmetics in current use and also holds safety status as a food flavoring as well.
An honest caveat: the "soothing" and "anti-inflammatory" claims come mostly from supplier marketing rather than published clinical trials. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review's own literature search found no useful efficacy studies on this ingredient.
So the antioxidant and preservative-boosting roles are the well supported ones while the calming benefit is plausible but thinly evidenced.
Overall, this is a well-tolerated, low-irritation multitasker that quietly helps a formula stay fresh and stable.
Learn more about HydroxyacetophenoneMethylpropanediol is a synthetic solvent and humectant.
As a solvent, it helps dissolve other ingredients, helping to evenly distribute ingredients throughout the product. This ingredient has also been shown to have antimicrobial properties which makes it a preservative booster.
Methylpropanediol is able to add a bit of moisture to the skin. It also helps other ingredients be better absorbed into the skin, such as salicylic acid.
Learn more about MethylpropanediolNiacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Learn more about NiacinamideSodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium HyaluronateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water