Youth To The People Polypeptide-121 Future Cream with Peptides and Ceramides Versus Fresh Black Tea Anti-Aging Ceramide Moisturizer
This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid and Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9 to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.
This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningDicaprylyl Carbonate
EmollientHydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
HumectantTrimethylolpropane Tricaprylate/Tricaprate
EmollientTridecyl Trimellitate
EmollientPropanediol
SolventSh-Polypeptide-121
Skin ConditioningPolyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
EmulsifyingPanthenol
Skin ConditioningNiacinamide
SmoothingProline
Skin ConditioningTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantAloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Cannabis Sativa Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Rice Protein
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Pea Protein
EmollientSalvia Hispanica Seed Extract
EmollientAcetyl Tetrapeptide-11
Skin ConditioningAcetyl Tetrapeptide-9
Skin ConditioningAcetyl Tetrapeptide-2
Skin ConditioningHibiscus Sabdariffa Fruit Extract
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingHydrolyzed Linseed Seed
HumectantCastor Oil/Ipdi Copolymer
Ceramide AP
Skin ConditioningCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientCetearyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingGlycerin
HumectantHydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Skin ConditioningCoco-Caprylate/Caprate
EmollientDilinoleic Acid
EmollientBenzyl Alcohol
PerfumingZingiber Officinale Root Extract
MaskingBisabolol
AntioxidantCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingDimethyl Isosorbide
SolventDipropylene Glycol
HumectantErythritol
HumectantEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningGlucose
Humectant1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningTrisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Glyceryl Stearate
EmollientPhytosphingosine
Skin ConditioningPolyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Emulsion StabilisingPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingCaprylhydroxamic Acid
Potassium Sorbate
PreservativeGlycine
BufferingHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantSodium Benzoate
MaskingT-Butyl Alcohol
PerfumingCitric Acid
BufferingSodium Citrate
BufferingSodium Lactate
BufferingTriheptanoin
Skin ConditioningXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingWater, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Trimethylolpropane Tricaprylate/Tricaprate, Tridecyl Trimellitate, Propanediol, Sh-Polypeptide-121, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Panthenol, Niacinamide, Proline, Tocopheryl Acetate, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Hydrolyzed Cannabis Sativa Seed Extract, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Hydrolyzed Pea Protein, Salvia Hispanica Seed Extract, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2, Hibiscus Sabdariffa Fruit Extract, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Hydrolyzed Linseed Seed, Castor Oil/Ipdi Copolymer, Ceramide AP, Ceramide NP, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Glucoside, Glycerin, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Dilinoleic Acid, Benzyl Alcohol, Zingiber Officinale Root Extract, Bisabolol, Caprylyl Glycol, Carbomer, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Dipropylene Glycol, Erythritol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glucose, 1,2-Hexanediol, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Glyceryl Stearate, Phytosphingosine, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Polysorbate 20, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Potassium Sorbate, Glycine, Hydroxyacetophenone, Sodium Benzoate, T-Butyl Alcohol, Citric Acid, Sodium Citrate, Sodium Lactate, Triheptanoin, Xanthan Gum
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningCocoglycerides
EmollientSqualane
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate Citrate
EmollientHydrogenated Coco-Glycerides
EmollientJojoba Esters
EmollientPropanediol
SolventPolyglycerin-3
HumectantCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialNephelium Lappaceum Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningAlpinia Speciosa Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingAdenosine
Skin ConditioningHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantChlorphenesin
AntimicrobialSodium Hydroxide
BufferingSodium Polyacrylate
AbsorbentMaltodextrin
AbsorbentParfum
MaskingLinalool
PerfumingCitronellol
PerfumingGeraniol
PerfumingWater, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Cocoglycerides, Squalane, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides, Jojoba Esters, Propanediol, Polyglycerin-3, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Nephelium Lappaceum Leaf Extract, Alpinia Speciosa Leaf Extract, Tocopherol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ceramide NP, Carbomer, Adenosine, Hydroxyacetophenone, Chlorphenesin, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Polyacrylate, Maltodextrin, Parfum, Linalool, Citronellol, Geraniol
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.
Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.
It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.
Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.
A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.
Learn more about CarbomerCeramide NP (formerly known as Ceramide 3) is one of the skin's naturally occurring lipids.
Since ceramides are the major lipid components of the skin, they are crucial for maintaining skin barrier and hydration. Ceramide NP most closely mirrors the dominant kind in human skin amongst ceramide subtypes.
This ceramide works by slotting into gaps within the stratum corneum's lipid matrix to limit trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and shield the skin against external irritants.
A study with 312 patients found that using a ceramide-containing routine for 4 weeks reduced the severity of atopic dermatitis by over 61%.
Another clinical study in subjects aged 60 and older found that a ceramide body wash and moisturizer improved skin dryness and itchy skin in 15 days.
Overall, ceramides are considered non-irritating and safety tests have found little to no observable adverse effects from using this ingredient.
Ceramide NP is usually sourced from plants (like soybean or rice bran), or produced synthetically.
Learn more about Ceramide NPGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHydroxyacetophenone is a small phenolic molecule that earns its place in a formulas as an antioxidant and preservative booster.
As a phenol, it is able to neutralize free radicals to protect both the product and the skin from oxidative stress.
Though it can't kill microbes on its own, it works as a good supporting agent when combined with other preservatives like Phenoxyethanol or 1,2-Hexanediol.
This ingredient naturally occurs as piceol in Norwegian spruce needles (~0.4-1.1% dry weight and in cloudberries). Though the cosmetic-grade material is synthesized for purity and consistency.
You'll usually see it used at low levels and suppliers recommend up to 1% added to a water phase.
Safety testing was done at concentrations like 0.05% in SPF products and 0.5% in a Human Repeated Insult Patch Test. The safety evidence is assuring; this ingredient is safe for cosmetics in current use and also holds safety status as a food flavoring as well.
An honest caveat: the "soothing" and "anti-inflammatory" claims come mostly from supplier marketing rather than published clinical trials. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review's own literature search found no useful efficacy studies on this ingredient.
So the antioxidant and preservative-boosting roles are the well supported ones while the calming benefit is plausible but thinly evidenced.
Overall, this is a well-tolerated, low-irritation multitasker that quietly helps a formula stay fresh and stable.
Learn more about HydroxyacetophenonePropanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Learn more about PropanediolTocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.
Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.
It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.
One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.
Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.
Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.
The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.
Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.
Learn more about Tocopheryl AcetateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water