What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
EmollientPetrolatum
EmollientSynthetic Wax
AbrasiveBis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2
EmollientEthylhexyl Methoxycinnamate
UV AbsorberOzokerite
Emulsion StabilisingCrambe Abyssinica Seed Oil
Skin ConditioningOlea Europaea Fruit Oil
MaskingButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeJojoba Esters
EmollientTitanium Dioxide
Cosmetic ColorantSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningHelianthus Annuus Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningParfum
MaskingAllantoin
Skin ConditioningTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantBHT
AntioxidantAcacia Decurrens Flower Wax
EmollientPolyglycerin-3
HumectantPunica Granatum Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningPolyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate
EmulsifyingTocopherol
AntioxidantCI 45370
Cosmetic ColorantCI 15850
Cosmetic ColorantCI 45380
Cosmetic ColorantEthylhexyl Palmitate, Petrolatum, Synthetic Wax, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Ozokerite, Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Phenoxyethanol, Jojoba Esters, Titanium Dioxide, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Ethylhexylglycerin, Helianthus Annuus Seed Extract, Parfum, Allantoin, Tocopheryl Acetate, BHT, Acacia Decurrens Flower Wax, Polyglycerin-3, Punica Granatum Flower Extract, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Tocopherol, CI 45370, CI 15850, CI 45380
Ricinus Communis Seed Oil
MaskingPetrolatum
EmollientC12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialOlea Europaea Fruit Oil
MaskingBis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2
EmollientEthylhexyl Methoxycinnamate
UV AbsorberPolyethylene
AbrasiveButyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane
UV AbsorberDi-C20-40 Alkyl Dimer Dilinoleate
Skin ConditioningMicrocrystalline Wax
Emulsion StabilisingButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningMacadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
EmollientC10-30 Cholesterol/Lanosterol Esters
EmulsifyingZinc Oxide
Cosmetic ColorantPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientParfum
MaskingTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantEthylhexylglycerin
Skin Conditioning1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientAllantoin
Skin ConditioningGlycine Soja Oil
EmollientBHT
AntioxidantPersea Gratissima Oil
Skin ConditioningCamellia Sinensis Leaf
PerfumingTriethoxycaprylylsilane
Water
Skin ConditioningBisabolol
AntioxidantIsobornyl Acetate
MaskingCalendula Officinalis Flower Extract
MaskingChamomilla Recutita Flower Extract
MaskingFucus Vesiculosus Extract
EmollientTriticum Vulgare Bran Extract
Skin ConditioningLinoleic Acid
CleansingPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeSodium Benzoate
MaskingTocopherol
AntioxidantCitric Acid
BufferingRicinus Communis Seed Oil, Petrolatum, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Polyethylene, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Di-C20-40 Alkyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Microcrystalline Wax, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, C10-30 Cholesterol/Lanosterol Esters, Zinc Oxide, Phenoxyethanol, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Parfum, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ethylhexylglycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Allantoin, Glycine Soja Oil, BHT, Persea Gratissima Oil, Camellia Sinensis Leaf, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Water, Bisabolol, Isobornyl Acetate, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Fucus Vesiculosus Extract, Triticum Vulgare Bran Extract, Linoleic Acid, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Tocopherol, Citric Acid
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Allantoin is a soothing ingredient known for its protective and moisturizing properties; it's basically a quiet workhorse ingredient you can find in a huge range of cosmetics.
Though it can be derived from the comfrey plant, allantoin is produced synthetically for cosmetic products to ensure purity.
Research shows it can encourage your skin cells to turn over and renew by stimulating keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation.
It also has mild keratolytic properties to help loosen and shed dead skin cells without being harsh.
Studies also suggest allantoin can help calm inflammation by dialing down some of the chemical signals your skin sends out when it is irritated.
This ingredient is typically used in the 0.1-0.5% range, and the FDA recognizes it as a skin protectant in OTC products up to 2%.
Overall, allantoin is a wonderful addition to most routines; it is stable across a wide pH range (~4-8), works well with other ingredients, and is considered non-sensitizing/non-irritating.
Fun fact: Allantoin is naturally occurring in comfrey root, beets, chamomile, and wheat sprouts. Our bodies even produce it as a byproduct of uric acid metabolism.
Learn more about AllantoinBHT is a synthetic antioxidant and preservative.
As an antioxidant, it helps your body fight off free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells.
As a preservative, it is used to stabilize products and prevent them from degrading. Specifically, BHT prevents degradation from oxidation.
The concerns related to BHT come from oral studies; this ingredient is currently allowed for use by both the FDA and EU.
However, it was recently restricted for use in the UK as of April 2024.
Learn more about BHTThis ingredient is lipid-based synthetic skin-conditioning agent derived from adipic acid and a mixture of fatty acids. It is often called a lanolin substitute.
As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate the skin. Emollients create a barrier on the skin to trap moisture in.
Due to its fatty acid base, it may not be Malassezia folliculitis safe.
Learn more about Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Learn more about Butyrospermum Parkii ButterEthylhexyl Methoxycinnamate is an organic compound that provides UVB protection. It often goes by the more common name of octinoxate. It is created from methoxycinnamic acid and 2-ethylhexanol.
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate absorbs UVB rays with wavelengths between 280-320 nm. UV absorbers protect your skin by using chemical reactions to convert UV rays into heat and energy.
UVB (290-320 nm) rays emit more energy than UVA rays. They are capable of damaging DNA, causing sunburns and are thought to be linked to skin cancer.
The state of Hawaii has banned sunscreens containing octinoxate due to its potential impact on coral reefs. More research is needed to bridge gaps in this research. The European Union allows higher levels of octinoxate in sunscreens than the US and Australia.
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate is oil soluble. It is not stable and may lose efficacy when exposed to sunlight.
Learn more about Ethylhexyl MethoxycinnamateEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinThis ingredient is also known as olive oil. It has been used in skincare for centuries and science largely backs up its reputation as a nourishing emollient.
The main components of olive oil are oleic acid (55-83%), linoleic acid (3.5-20%), and palmitic acid (7-20%). Oleic acid promotes skin regeneration and helps regulate inflammatory responses.
Squalene is also naturally present in olive oil and exhibits moisturizing and antioxidant properties.
The polyphenols in olive oil also show anti-aging promise; one clinical study found a measurable improvement in skin appearance after 30 days of topical serum use.
Just be aware that applying olive oil directly to skin can weaken the barrier and cause redness. One study with volunteers found even people without sensitive skin experienced a significant reduction in stratum corneum integrity and induced mild erythema.
It's best to use this ingredient as part of a carefully crafted formula (instead of putting it on skin directly from the bottle).
Because it has a 2-3 on the comedogenic scale, it is a moderate risk for acne-prone skin. However, the overall formulation of a product matters more than a few ingredients with comedogenic ratings.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because of the oleic and palmitic acid content. These fall within the C11-24 fatty acid range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize to grow.
Overall, olive oil is a well-studied and nourishing skincare ingredient.
Learn more about Olea Europaea Fruit OilParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumPetrolatum is more commonly known as petroleum jelly. It is created by mixing waxes and mineral oils.
This ingredient is effective at reducing water loss by 99%. This is because it is an occlusive. Occlusives create a hydrophobic barrier on the skin to prevent evaporation. This property makes it great for hydrating dry skin.
Pro tip: Use occlusives, such as this ingredient, on damp skin for the best results.
The quality or origin of petrolatum is only known when disclosed by the brand. Most cosmetic petrolatum has gone through several purification stages.
Another benefit of occlusives is it protects your skin against infection or allergies.
Petrolatum is fungal acne safe. It is a hydrocarbon with no fatty acid structure, so Malassezia cannot metabolize it. In-vitro studies support negligible growth stimulation as well.
It's also worth noting that petrolatum has a comedogenic rating of 0. In updated rabbit ear testing (and in human testing), petrolatum was found to be not comedogenic. This means it didn’t promote comedone formation in standard models.
Learn more about PetrolatumPhenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Jojoba oil is one of the most well-studied plant-derived ingredients in cosmetics. It is an emollient with a special structure.
Because it is made up of 97-98% wax esters, it closely mirrors the linear monoesters found in human sebum. This makes it skin compatible, non-greasy, and lightweight.
Unlike other plant oils, jojoba wax doesn't easily penetrate skin. It mostly works in the uppermost layers as an emollient. This just means it forms a light barrier on the skin to help retain moisture.
Formulations with jojoba esters up to 90% reduced transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and increased barrier recovery by 81% (outperforming bisabolol at 47%).
Besides barrier support, the science also suggests jojoba to have anti-inflammatory effects and potential applications for skin infections, aging, and wound healing.
Fun fact: Indigenous cultures have used jojoba as a moisturizer and to help treat burns for centuries.
Due to its fatty acid content, Jojoba oil may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Simmondsia Chinensis Seed OilTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolTocopheryl Acetate is AKA Vitamin E. It is an antioxidant and protects your skin from free radicals. Free radicals damage the skin by breaking down collagen.
One study found using Tocopheryl Acetate with Vitamin C decreased the number of sunburned cells.
Tocopheryl Acetate is commonly found in both skincare and dietary supplements.
Learn more about Tocopheryl Acetate