What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningAzelaic Acid
BufferingPropylene Glycol
HumectantNiacinamide
SmoothingTrimethyl Pentaphenyl Trisiloxane
EmollientHydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
MaskingDisodium Phosphate
BufferingDipropylene Glycol
HumectantGlycine Soja Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingCynanchum Atratum Extract
Skin ConditioningHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientAlthaea Rosea Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningXylose
HumectantDiethoxyethyl Succinate
SolventPanthenol
Skin ConditioningMaltodextrin
AbsorbentCellulose Gum
Emulsion StabilisingPPG-13-Decyltetradeceth-24
EmulsifyingHydroxyacetophenone
Antioxidant1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantGellan Gum
Caprylyl Glycol
EmollientAgar
MaskingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Sclerotium Gum
HumectantAllantoin
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
HumectantOctanediol
Dextrin
AbsorbentBeta-Carotene
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantPolyglutamic Acid
Skin ConditioningMadecassoside
AntioxidantAsiaticoside
AntioxidantMadecassic Acid
Skin ConditioningAsiatic Acid
Skin ConditioningXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingDisodium EDTA
Parfum
MaskingGardenia Florida Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningGuaiazulene
AntimicrobialWater, Azelaic Acid, Propylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Trimethyl Pentaphenyl Trisiloxane, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Disodium Phosphate, Dipropylene Glycol, Glycine Soja Seed Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Cynanchum Atratum Extract, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Althaea Rosea Flower Extract, Xylose, Diethoxyethyl Succinate, Panthenol, Maltodextrin, Cellulose Gum, PPG-13-Decyltetradeceth-24, Hydroxyacetophenone, 1,2-Hexanediol, Butylene Glycol, Gellan Gum, Caprylyl Glycol, Agar, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hydrolyzed Sclerotium Gum, Allantoin, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Octanediol, Dextrin, Beta-Carotene, Tocopherol, Polyglutamic Acid, Madecassoside, Asiaticoside, Madecassic Acid, Asiatic Acid, Xanthan Gum, Disodium EDTA, Parfum, Gardenia Florida Fruit Extract, Guaiazulene
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantDipropylene Glycol
HumectantPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningDiphenyl Dimethicone
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingPolyglycerin-3
HumectantRetinal
Skin ConditioningCastor Oil/Ipdi Copolymer
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientCoptis Japonica Root Extract
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantLithospermum Erythrorhizon Root Extract
Skin ConditioningCynanchum Atratum Extract
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Collagen
EmollientAlthaea Rosea Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningXylose
HumectantMethyl Gluceth-20
HumectantGlyceryl Polymethacrylate
Hydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantAmmonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Emulsion StabilisingButylene Glycol
HumectantAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion Stabilising1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningTromethamine
BufferingAllantoin
Skin ConditioningGellan Gum
Agar
MaskingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningAdenosine
Skin ConditioningAcetyl Glucosamine
Skin ConditioningPvm/Ma Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingSodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
HumectantBeta-Carotene
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Skin ConditioningCyanocobalamin
Skin ConditioningAstaxanthin
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantPolyglutamic Acid
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingDisodium EDTA
Xanthan Gum
EmulsifyingWater, Glycerin, Dipropylene Glycol, Pentylene Glycol, Diphenyl Dimethicone, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Polyglycerin-3, Retinal, Castor Oil/Ipdi Copolymer, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Coptis Japonica Root Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Lithospermum Erythrorhizon Root Extract, Cynanchum Atratum Extract, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Althaea Rosea Flower Extract, Xylose, Methyl Gluceth-20, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Hydroxyacetophenone, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Butylene Glycol, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, 1,2-Hexanediol, Tromethamine, Allantoin, Gellan Gum, Agar, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Acetyl Glucosamine, Pvm/Ma Copolymer, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Beta-Carotene, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Cyanocobalamin, Astaxanthin, Tocopherol, Polyglutamic Acid, Caprylyl Glycol, Carbomer, Disodium EDTA, Xanthan Gum
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.Â
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservativesÂ
Agar is the vegan substitute for animal-gelatin. It helps thicken and improve the texture of cosmetics. It comes from cell-walls of red algae.
Allantoin is a soothing ingredient known for its protective and moisturizing properties; it's basically a quiet workhorse ingredient you can find in a huge range of cosmetics.
Though it can be derived from the comfrey plant, allantoin is produced synthetically for cosmetic products to ensure purity.
Research shows it can encourage your skin cells to turn over and renew by stimulating keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation.
It also has mild keratolytic properties to help loosen and shed dead skin cells without being harsh.
Studies also suggest allantoin can help calm inflammation by dialing down some of the chemical signals your skin sends out when it is irritated.
This ingredient is typically used in the 0.1-0.5% range, and the FDA recognizes it as a skin protectant in OTC products up to 2%.
Overall, allantoin is a wonderful addition to most routines; it is stable across a wide pH range (~4-8), works well with other ingredients, and is considered non-sensitizing/non-irritating.
Fun fact: Allantoin is naturally occurring in comfrey root, beets, chamomile, and wheat sprouts. Our bodies even produce it as a byproduct of uric acid metabolism.
Learn more about AllantoinThis ingredient comes from the hollyhock flower. It has skin conditioning properties.
Beta-Carotene is a fat-soluble carotenoid pigment. It is the thing responsible for giving carrots, sweet potatoes, apricots, and other orange-yellow produce their color.
It is a potent antioxidant that neutralizes free radicals (mainly reactive oxygen species) that come at your skin from both the environment and internal processes.
When applied topically, beta-carotene accumulates in your outermost layer of skin and acts as a first-line defense against photo-oxidative stress.
Research has established that carotenoids like beta-carotene boosts your skin's innate resistance against UVB induced erythema. Please know this does not mean beta-carotene can replace your sunscreen.
Newer studies show it can also help inhibit molecular markers of oxidative stress like MMP-1 and MMP-9, enzymes that break down collagen.
In some cases, it can be used as a cosmetic colorant as well (INCI name: CI 40800).
Beta-carotene pairs well with other antioxidants like Vitamin E and Vitamin C for a synergistic effect.
Learn more about Beta-CaroteneButylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolCaprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Learn more about Caprylyl GlycolWe don't have a description for Cynanchum Atratum Extract yet.
Dipropylene Glycol is a synthetically created humectant, stabilizer, and solvent.
This ingredient helps:
Dipropylene glycol is technically an alcohol, but it belongs to the glycol family (often considered part of the ‘good’ alcohols). This means it is hydrating and gentle on skin unlike drying solvent alcohols like denatured alcohol.
As a masking agent, Dipropylene Glycol can be used to cover the smell of other ingredients. However, it does not have a scent.
Studies show Dipropylene Glycol is considered safe to use in skincare.
Learn more about Dipropylene GlycolDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGellan Gum is a high-molecular weight heteropolysaccharide gum. It is created by the process of pure-culture fermentation with the bacterium Pseudomonas elodea.
Gellan Gum is used to stabilize products. This helps improve the texture, consistency, and shelf life.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil is a plant oil derived from the seeds of a sunflower.
It is rich in fatty acids, primarily linoleic acid and oleic acid. This gives it emollient and skin conditioning properties.
The reason this ingredient is so effective is because it forms a thin film on the skin that reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) while supplying linoleic acid to the stratum corneum to improve barrier strength.
The high linoleic acid content is particularly noteworthy for acne-prone skin.
Research suggests that acne-prone skin tends to be deficient in linoleic acid in sebum. Topical application may help replenish this to support a healthier follicular environment and less comedone-promoting sebum.
One randomized study found sunflower seed oil preserved skin barrier integrity in adult volunteers with and without atopic dermatitis (outperforming olive oil).
This ingredient is well-studied, gentle, and an effective emollient suitable for most skin types.
On fungal acne: This ingredient may not be Fungal acne (Malassezia folliculitis) safe. This is because it contains fatty acids with carbon chain lengths in the C11-C24 range.
Learn more about Helianthus Annuus Seed OilHydroxyacetophenone is a small phenolic molecule that earns its place in a formulas as an antioxidant and preservative booster.
As a phenol, it is able to neutralize free radicals to protect both the product and the skin from oxidative stress.
Though it can't kill microbes on its own, it works as a good supporting agent when combined with other preservatives like Phenoxyethanol or 1,2-Hexanediol.
This ingredient naturally occurs as piceol in Norwegian spruce needles (~0.4-1.1% dry weight and in cloudberries). Though the cosmetic-grade material is synthesized for purity and consistency.
You'll usually see it used at low levels and suppliers recommend up to 1% added to a water phase.
Safety testing was done at concentrations like 0.05% in SPF products and 0.5% in a Human Repeated Insult Patch Test. The safety evidence is assuring; this ingredient is safe for cosmetics in current use and also holds safety status as a food flavoring as well.
An honest caveat: the "soothing" and "anti-inflammatory" claims come mostly from supplier marketing rather than published clinical trials. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review's own literature search found no useful efficacy studies on this ingredient.
So the antioxidant and preservative-boosting roles are the well supported ones while the calming benefit is plausible but thinly evidenced.
Overall, this is a well-tolerated, low-irritation multitasker that quietly helps a formula stay fresh and stable.
Learn more about HydroxyacetophenonePentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:
Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.
On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.
Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.
Learn more about Pentylene GlycolPolyglutamic Acid is made up many glutamic acids chained together. It is created from bacterial fermentation.
This ingredient is an effective skin hydrator and may help speed up wound healing. As a humectant, it draws and holds water to the skin. This ingredient is often compared to hyaluronic acid or glycerin. Similarly to hyaluronic acid, it can vary in molecular weights. This means polyglutamic acid is capable of bringing hydration to lower levels of the skin.
Fun fact: Polyglutamic Acid is found in the Japanese food, natto. It is also being used in cancer treatment studies.
Learn more about Polyglutamic AcidSodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer is a crosslinked version of sodium hyaluronate. This just means it's linked into a 3D mesh network that lets it be more stable and sit on skin as a cohesive, gel-like film rather than sinking into skin.
A 2016 human skin study found crosslinked HA increased epidermal water content by 7.6% over the control group and reduced transepidermal water loss by 27.8%.
A follow-up clinical trial found that a topical crosslinked HA serum applied after fillers, microneedling, or chemical peels was well-tolerated and enhanced skin quality at 14 / 28 days.
More recent research suggests that concentrations as low as 0.03% can act as a penetration enhancer for other skincare actives.
Learn more about Sodium Hyaluronate CrosspolymerTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan GumWe don't have a description for Xylose yet.