What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantGlycerin
HumectantArbutin
AntioxidantAdenosine
Skin ConditioningBeeswax
Emulsion StabilisingEgg Oil
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientOryza Sativa Germ Oil
EmollientDimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Skin ConditioningSodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
AntioxidantSorbitan Olivate
EmulsifyingGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientVaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract
Skin ProtectingAronia Melanocarpa Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningLycium Chinense Fruit Extract
AntioxidantPropolis Extract
Skin ConditioningGlycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
BleachingPrunus Armeniaca Kernel Extract
Skin ConditioningLaminaria Japonica Extract
Skin ProtectingUlmus Davidiana Root Extract
Skin Conditioning1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningLavandula Angustifolia Oil
MaskingWater, Carbomer, Sodium Hyaluronate, Glycerin, Arbutin, Adenosine, Beeswax, Egg Oil, Tocopherol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Oryza Sativa Germ Oil, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Sorbitan Olivate, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract, Aronia Melanocarpa Fruit Extract, Lycium Chinense Fruit Extract, Propolis Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Extract, Laminaria Japonica Extract, Ulmus Davidiana Root Extract, 1,2-Hexanediol, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil
Water
Skin ConditioningDipropylene Glycol
HumectantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingDaucus Carota Sativa Root Water
MaskingGlycerin
HumectantArachidyl Alcohol
EmollientEthylhexyl Palmitate
EmollientCetearyl Alcohol
Emollient1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningBehenyl Alcohol
EmollientPanthenol
Skin ConditioningButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningArachidyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingSorbitan Olivate
EmulsifyingGlyceryl Caprylate
EmollientAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientPropanediol
SolventPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningCanola Oil
EmollientSodium PCA
HumectantSodium Gluconate
Skin ConditioningGlycine Soja Oil
EmollientDipotassium Glycyrrhizate
HumectantButylene Glycol
HumectantGlucose
HumectantTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantAllantoin
Skin ConditioningHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingDaucus Carota Sativa Seed Oil
EmollientMelaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil
AntioxidantSantalum Album Oil
MaskingCamellia Japonica Flower Extract
EmollientDaucus Carota Sativa Root Extract
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantBixa Orellana Seed Oil
EmollientPhytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate
Skin ConditioningBeta-Carotene
Skin ConditioningCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantWater, Dipropylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Daucus Carota Sativa Root Water, Glycerin, Arachidyl Alcohol, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Cetearyl Alcohol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Behenyl Alcohol, Panthenol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Arachidyl Glucoside, Sorbitan Olivate, Glyceryl Caprylate, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Propanediol, Pentylene Glycol, Canola Oil, Sodium PCA, Sodium Gluconate, Glycine Soja Oil, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Butylene Glycol, Glucose, Tocopheryl Acetate, Allantoin, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Daucus Carota Sativa Seed Oil, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil, Santalum Album Oil, Camellia Japonica Flower Extract, Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Bixa Orellana Seed Oil, Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate, Beta-Carotene, Ceramide NP, Tocopherol
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.Â
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservativesÂ
This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Learn more about Butyrospermum Parkii ButterCetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil is a plant oil derived from the seeds of a sunflower.
It is rich in fatty acids, primarily linoleic acid and oleic acid. This gives it emollient and skin conditioning properties.
The reason this ingredient is so effective is because it forms a thin film on the skin that reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) while supplying linoleic acid to the stratum corneum to improve barrier strength.
The high linoleic acid content is particularly noteworthy for acne-prone skin.
Research suggests that acne-prone skin tends to be deficient in linoleic acid in sebum. Topical application may help replenish this to support a healthier follicular environment and less comedone-promoting sebum.
One randomized study found sunflower seed oil preserved skin barrier integrity in adult volunteers with and without atopic dermatitis (outperforming olive oil).
This ingredient is well-studied, gentle, and an effective emollient suitable for most skin types.
On fungal acne: This ingredient may not be Fungal acne (Malassezia folliculitis) safe. This is because it contains fatty acids with carbon chain lengths in the C11-C24 range.
Learn more about Helianthus Annuus Seed OilSodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium HyaluronateSorbitan Olivate is created from the fatty acids in olive oil and sorbitol.
This ingredient is an oil in water emulsifier. It helps stabilize a product by preventing oils and waters from separating. Sorbitan Olivate also helps hydrate the skin.
This ingredient is also known as part of Olivem 1000, with Cetearyl Olivate being the other part.
According to a manufacturer, this ingredient helps preserve the natural microbiome of skin. Having a healthy microbiome helps keep our skin healthy and protects against harmful bacteria.
Please note, having a healthy microbiome is different from fungal acne; a healthy microbiome includes small amounts of yeast that normally live on your skin without causing problems.
Fungal acne happens when one type of yeast (Malassezia) grows out of control. This is usually because it's feeding on certain oils or fatty acids. Due to the olive oil base, this ingredient may feed that yeast, so it may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Sorbitan OlivateTocopherol (also known as Vitamin E) is a common antioxidant used to help protect the skin from free-radicals and strengthen the skin barrier. It's also fat soluble - this means our skin is great at absorbing it.
Vitamin E also helps keep your natural skin lipids healthy. Your lipid skin barrier naturally consists of lipids, ceramides, and fatty acids. Vitamin E offers extra protection for your skin’s lipid barrier, keeping your skin healthy and nourished.
Another benefit is a bit of UV protection. Vitamin E helps reduce the damage caused by UVB rays. (It should not replace your sunscreen). Combining it with Vitamin C can decrease sunburned cells and hyperpigmentation after UV exposure.
You might have noticed Vitamin E + C often paired together. This is because it is great at stabilizing Vitamin C. Using the two together helps increase the effectiveness of both ingredients.
There are often claims that Vitamin E can reduce/prevent scarring, but these claims haven't been confirmed by scientific research.
Learn more about TocopherolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water