SkinMedica TNS® Advanced+ Serum Versus Estée Lauder Perfectionist CP+R Wrinkle Lifting/Firming Serum
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 and Palmitoyl Oligopeptide to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningHuman Neonatal Fibroblast Conditioned Media
Skin ConditioningGlycereth-7 Triacetate
EmollientShea Butter Ethyl Esters
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantEthoxydiglycol
HumectantLactococcus Ferment Lysate
Skin ConditioningWhey Protein
Skin ConditioningChlorella Vulgaris Extract
Skin ConditioningSaccharide Isomerate
HumectantDimer Tripeptide-43
Vitis Vinifera Flower Cell Extract
MaskingPyrus Malus Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantPropanediol
SolventXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingPolyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Emulsion StabilisingPolyacrylate-13
Polyisobutene
Sclerotium Gum
Emulsion StabilisingPEG-12 Dimethicone
Skin ConditioningLecithin
EmollientPullulan
Butylene Glycol
HumectantSodium Citrate
BufferingPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingAminomethyl Propanol
BufferingDisodium EDTA
ChelatingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningWater, Pentylene Glycol, Human Neonatal Fibroblast Conditioned Media, Glycereth-7 Triacetate, Shea Butter Ethyl Esters, Glycerin, Ethoxydiglycol, Lactococcus Ferment Lysate, Whey Protein, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Saccharide Isomerate, Dimer Tripeptide-43, Vitis Vinifera Flower Cell Extract, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Hydroxyacetophenone, Tocopheryl Acetate, Propanediol, Xanthan Gum, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Polyacrylate-13, Polyisobutene, Sclerotium Gum, PEG-12 Dimethicone, Lecithin, Pullulan, Butylene Glycol, Sodium Citrate, Polysorbate 20, Aminomethyl Propanol, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin
Dimethicone
EmollientWater
Skin ConditioningPolysilicone-11
Hdi/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer
Silica
AbrasiveButylene Glycol
HumectantCaprylyl Methicone
Skin ConditioningSigesbeckia Orientalis Extract
Skin ConditioningSalvia Sclarea Extract
AntiseborrhoeicColeus Forskohlii Root Extract
EmollientChamomilla Recutita Flower Extract
MaskingPEG-10 Dimethicone
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Collagen
EmollientPalmaria Palmata Extract
Skin ProtectingGlycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
BleachingSilybum Marianum Extract
Skin ConditioningHordeum Vulgare Extract
EmollientPadina Pavonica Thallus Extract
Skin ConditioningArtemia Extract
Skin ConditioningPantethine
EmollientAlgae Extract
EmollientChlorella Vulgaris Extract
Skin ConditioningCholesterol
EmollientSqualane
EmollientBoswellia Serrata Extract
Skin ConditioningZea Mays Kernel Extract
Glycine Soja Protein
EmulsifyingCaffeine
Skin ConditioningWhey Protein
Skin ConditioningLinoleic Acid
CleansingLecithin
EmollientCollagen
MoisturisingAcetyl Hexapeptide-8
HumectantPalmitoyl Oligopeptide
CleansingGlycerin
HumectantFaex Extract
Skin ConditioningPolyquaternium-51
Skin ConditioningPhytosphingosine
Skin ConditioningTriticum Vulgare Germ Oil
EmollientDecarboxy Carnosine Hcl
Skin ConditioningPolysorbate 40
EmulsifyingPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningPropanediol
SolventLauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone
Skin ConditioningEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Sodium PCA
HumectantPolymethylsilsesquioxane
Glyceryl Polymethacrylate
Zinc PCA
HumectantPropylene Glycol Dicaprate
EmollientSodium Chondroitin Sulfate
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantIsohexadecane
EmollientPEG-8
HumectantTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantPolysorbate 80
EmulsifyingDisodium Distyrylbiphenyl Disulfonate
SurfactantLaureth-12
EmulsifyingAcrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientAminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate
AntioxidantXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingSodium Beta-Sitosteryl Sulfate
Skin ConditioningSodium Chloride
MaskingSodium Hydroxide
BufferingParfum
MaskingDisodium EDTA
ChelatingBHT
AntioxidantPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeMica
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantDimethicone, Water, Polysilicone-11, Hdi/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer, Silica, Butylene Glycol, Caprylyl Methicone, Sigesbeckia Orientalis Extract, Salvia Sclarea Extract, Coleus Forskohlii Root Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, PEG-10 Dimethicone, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Palmaria Palmata Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Silybum Marianum Extract, Hordeum Vulgare Extract, Padina Pavonica Thallus Extract, Artemia Extract, Pantethine, Algae Extract, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Cholesterol, Squalane, Boswellia Serrata Extract, Zea Mays Kernel Extract, Glycine Soja Protein, Caffeine, Whey Protein, Linoleic Acid, Lecithin, Collagen, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Glycerin, Faex Extract, Polyquaternium-51, Phytosphingosine, Triticum Vulgare Germ Oil, Decarboxy Carnosine Hcl, Polysorbate 40, Pentylene Glycol, Propanediol, Lauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, Ethylhexylglycerin, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Sodium PCA, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Zinc PCA, Propylene Glycol Dicaprate, Sodium Chondroitin Sulfate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Isohexadecane, PEG-8, Tocopheryl Acetate, Polysorbate 80, Disodium Distyrylbiphenyl Disulfonate, Laureth-12, Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, Caprylyl Glycol, Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Beta-Sitosteryl Sulfate, Sodium Chloride, Sodium Hydroxide, Parfum, Disodium EDTA, BHT, Phenoxyethanol, Mica, CI 77891
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolChlorella Vulgaris Extract comes from a single-celled green freshwater algae.
The version used in skincare is almost always a water or glycerin-based extract that is basically the algae's amino acids, peptides, sugars, and chlorophyll pigments.
It acts as a skin-conditioning agent and the research behind it at this time is mostly lab-dish rather than human trials.
Isolated Chlorella peptides inhibit collagenase and elastase (the enzymes that chew up collagen and elastin) and mop up free radicals in test-tube assays. Another study found a Chlorella gel sped up wound healing in mice. Many of the firming or dark-circle claims come from the ingredient supplier's own studies.
Suppliers suggest using 1-2% of the trade version (Water/Glycerin + Chlorella Vulgaris Extract) in a finished formula which means the actual algae solids are a fraction of a percent.
Allergy risk is low and topical reactions are rare; the 2020 anaphylaxis case came from eating Chlorella supplements and not from putting it on skin.
However, patch testing is sensible if you have reacted to algae before.
The "chlorella is high in iodine so it breaks you out" line borrows from marine seaweed. Freshwater Chlorella isn't a notable iodine source unless it's deliberately grown in iodine-enriched medium.
Just so you know, many lists give algae a comedogenic rating of 5 and that number doesn't come from anywhere; it's not in the original rabbit-ear studies that most comedogenic ratings trace back to.
The reasoning behind the reputation is that seaweed is high in iodine and iodine can trigger acne-like breakouts when eaten. This traces back to a 1976 letter in Archives of Dermatology describing two women whose breakouts cleared after they stopped taking high-dose kelp supplements orally.
And the reaction of these two women wasn't clogged pores at all: it was an iodine-triggered pustular rash. Later research found normal dietary iodine doesn't meaningfully affect acne either and nobody has shown topical algae delivers enough iodine to matter.
Learn more about Chlorella Vulgaris ExtractDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinLecithin is a term for a group of substances found in the cell membranes of plants, animals, and humans. They are made up of phospholipids.
Thanks to its amphiphilic structure (water-loving head and oil-loving tail), it is a true multitasker:
It plays well with most ingredients and is typically used at 0.1-1%. However, concentrations up to 50% have been reported in moisturizers.
Learn more about LecithinPentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:
Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.
On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.
Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.
Learn more about Pentylene GlycolPhenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Learn more about PhenoxyethanolPropanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Learn more about PropanediolTocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.
Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.
It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.
One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.
Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.
Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.
The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.
Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.
Learn more about Tocopheryl AcetateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterWe don't have a description for Whey Protein yet.
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum