What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantPropanediol
SolventGlycerin
Humectant1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantTromethamine
BufferingSalicylic Acid
MaskingGlycereth-25 PCA Isostearate
EmulsifyingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningCitric Acid
BufferingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingZea Mays Kernel Extract
Disodium EDTA
Trehalose
HumectantVitis Vinifera Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningHyaluronic Acid
HumectantHydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
HumectantSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantCitrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil
MaskingFructan
Skin ConditioningCitrus Paradisi Peel Oil
MaskingGlucose
HumectantLavandula Angustifolia Oil
MaskingGlycine
BufferingSalix Alba Bark Extract
AstringentSerine
MaskingGlutamic Acid
HumectantAspartic Acid
MaskingLeucine
Skin ConditioningAlanine
MaskingLysine
Skin ConditioningArginine
MaskingTyrosine
MaskingPhenylalanine
MaskingProline
Skin ConditioningThreonine
Valine
MaskingIsoleucine
Skin ConditioningHistidine
HumectantCysteine
AntioxidantMethionine
Skin ConditioningCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingGaultheria Procumbens Leaf Extract
PerfumingGluconolactone
Skin ConditioningWater, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Glycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Tromethamine, Salicylic Acid, Glycereth-25 PCA Isostearate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Citric Acid, Xanthan Gum, Zea Mays Kernel Extract, Disodium EDTA, Trehalose, Vitis Vinifera Fruit Extract, Hyaluronic Acid, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil, Fructan, Citrus Paradisi Peel Oil, Glucose, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Glycine, Salix Alba Bark Extract, Serine, Glutamic Acid, Aspartic Acid, Leucine, Alanine, Lysine, Arginine, Tyrosine, Phenylalanine, Proline, Threonine, Valine, Isoleucine, Histidine, Cysteine, Methionine, Centella Asiatica Extract, Gaultheria Procumbens Leaf Extract, Gluconolactone
Water
Skin ConditioningPropanediol
SolventGlycerin
HumectantNiacinamide
SmoothingButylene Glycol
HumectantDipropylene Glycol
HumectantMethylpropanediol
Solvent1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningPolyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Skin ConditioningDiethoxyethyl Succinate
SolventHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantHydroxyethyl Urea
HumectantCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingBetaine
HumectantTromethamine
BufferingSqualane
EmollientSolanum Tuberosum Pulp Extract
SmoothingAllantoin
Skin ConditioningSodium Phytate
Xanthan Gum
EmulsifyingHydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingSucrose Stearate
EmollientHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientDipotassium Glycyrrhizate
HumectantMadecassoside
AntioxidantSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantPogostemon Cablin Leaf Oil
MaskingSodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
AntioxidantGlyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer
HumectantHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingBeta-Glucan
Skin ConditioningSodium Stearoyl Glutamate
CleansingSalvia Officinalis Oil
MaskingCaffeine
Skin ConditioningDextrin
AbsorbentTheobroma Cacao Extract
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientLavandula Angustifolia Oil
MaskingAsiaticoside
AntioxidantMadecassic Acid
Skin ConditioningAsiatic Acid
Skin ConditioningSalvia Sclarea Oil
MaskingRosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil
MaskingWater, Propanediol, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Butylene Glycol, Dipropylene Glycol, Methylpropanediol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Diethoxyethyl Succinate, Hydroxyacetophenone, Hydroxyethyl Urea, Carbomer, Betaine, Tromethamine, Squalane, Solanum Tuberosum Pulp Extract, Allantoin, Sodium Phytate, Xanthan Gum, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Centella Asiatica Extract, Sucrose Stearate, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Madecassoside, Sodium Hyaluronate, Pogostemon Cablin Leaf Oil, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Beta-Glucan, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Salvia Officinalis Oil, Caffeine, Dextrin, Theobroma Cacao Extract, Caprylyl Glycol, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Asiaticoside, Madecassic Acid, Asiatic Acid, Salvia Sclarea Oil, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolCentella Asiatica Extract (Centella) is one of the most researched botanical extracts in skincare with decades of studies backing its effects on inflammation, collagen, and the skin barrier.
That research keeps pointing back to the same four triterpenoid saponins: Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, Asiatic Acid, and Madecassic Acid.
These compounds allow centella to dial back inflammation, encourage the skin to build and hold onto collagen, support the barrier and hydration, and bring solid antioxidant activity to protect against signs of aging.
Centella also carries a nice supporting cast of Vitamin A, vitamin C, several B vitamins, and amino acids. Put it all together and you get an ingredient that soothes, hydrates, and protects, all at once.
Most of centella's magic comes from the four big compounds (Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, Asiatic Acid, and Madecassic Acid). These are the actives doing the heavy lifting in almost every centella study.
Here is the short version of what they do in the skin:
So it is not just soothing for the sake of soothing. Centella calms the skin AND helps it rebuild.
Just FYI, not all centella on an ingredient list is the same. What you are getting actually depends on the extract:
Fun fact on the ratios: the leaves tend to be richest in Madecassoside and Asiaticoside, and lower in the two acids. The exact amounts shift with where the plant is grown and how it is processed. This means purity really does vary brand to brand.
Centella is one of the most easygoing actives out there.
It layers well with basically everything: niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, peptides, and vitamin C, and also pairs nicely with stronger actives like retinoids and exfoliating acids where it can help take the edge off irritation.
On the safety side, centella and its triterpenes are classified as weak sensitizers, meaning allergic reactions are possible but uncommon.
Patch tests at 1% and 5% came back negative in test panels, and creams at typical use levels did not cause allergic reactions across large groups of people.
But as with any new active, a patch test is still a smart move for very reactive skin.
Centella is widely used because it is effective at low percentages. For context, human safety testing found no meaningful irritation from creams containing centella extract at everyday use levels (the tested amounts were well under 1%).
The irritancy threshold in animal testing was also above 30% (so real-world formulas sit far below anything concerning).
In collagen lab studies, higher concentrations drove more collagen synthesis, so serums built around centella tend to feature it more prominently.
Bottom line: you will find centella working nicely anywhere from a fraction of a percent up to hero-ingredient levels depending on whether it is a supporting soother or the main event.
Fun fact: Centella has been used as a medicine and in food for many centuries. As a medicine, it is used to treat burns, scratches, and wounds.
Learn more about Centella Asiatica ExtractGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHydroxyacetophenone is a small phenolic molecule that earns its place in a formulas as an antioxidant and preservative booster.
As a phenol, it is able to neutralize free radicals to protect both the product and the skin from oxidative stress.
Though it can't kill microbes on its own, it works as a good supporting agent when combined with other preservatives like Phenoxyethanol or 1,2-Hexanediol.
This ingredient naturally occurs as piceol in Norwegian spruce needles (~0.4-1.1% dry weight and in cloudberries). Though the cosmetic-grade material is synthesized for purity and consistency.
You'll usually see it used at low levels and suppliers recommend up to 1% added to a water phase.
Safety testing was done at concentrations like 0.05% in SPF products and 0.5% in a Human Repeated Insult Patch Test. The safety evidence is assuring; this ingredient is safe for cosmetics in current use and also holds safety status as a food flavoring as well.
An honest caveat: the "soothing" and "anti-inflammatory" claims come mostly from supplier marketing rather than published clinical trials. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review's own literature search found no useful efficacy studies on this ingredient.
So the antioxidant and preservative-boosting roles are the well supported ones while the calming benefit is plausible but thinly evidenced.
Overall, this is a well-tolerated, low-irritation multitasker that quietly helps a formula stay fresh and stable.
Learn more about HydroxyacetophenoneLavandula Angustifolia Oil is more commonly known as lavender essential oil. It is considered a fragrancing ingredient.
Lavender imparts a famous scent. While the smell is lovely, this ingredient and may sensitize skin in topical products. This is because about 85% of the oil is made up of linalool and linalyl acetate.
When exposed to air, these two compounds become strong allergens. This ingredient exhibits cytotoxicity at low concentrations; amounts of 0.25% have been shown to damage skin cells.
A study from Japan found this ingredient caused lavender sensitivity after widespread exposure.
Lavender essential oil has some antimicrobial, antibacterial, and anti-inflammatory properties. However, the cons of this ingredient may outweight the pros.
More research is needed to confirm lavender essential oil's effects when used in aromatherapy.
Lavandula Angustifolia is known as the English Lavender and famous for creating purple fields in Provence, France.
Learn more about Lavandula Angustifolia OilPropanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Learn more about PropanediolSodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium HyaluronateTromethamine (aka THAM) is a synthetic amino acid that shows up in skincare as a helper ingredient.
It functions as a pH adjuster to help neutralize acidic ingredients and set a formula's pH to the right spot.
This matters a lot because a lot of actives (like vitamin C) needs a specific pH to work well and feel comfortable on skin.
Concentration use ranges from 0.1-1.0% depending on the formula.
Learn more about TromethamineWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum