What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningCyclohexasiloxane
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantBis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2
EmollientPentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate
EmollientPropanediol
SolventHydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin)
EmollientNiacinamide
SmoothingCetearyl Olivate
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningSorbitan Olivate
Emulsifying1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningCetyl Alcohol
EmollientStearyl Alcohol
EmollientCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningLavandula Angustifolia Flower Extract
CleansingCeramide Ns
Skin ConditioningCeramide As
Skin ConditioningCeramide EOP
Skin ConditioningCeramide AP
Skin ConditioningHyaluronic Acid
HumectantSqualane
EmollientAdansonia Digitata Seed Oil
EmollientOlea Europaea Fruit Oil
MaskingAnthemis Nobilis Flower Oil
MaskingGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientTrehalose
HumectantCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientTromethamine
BufferingAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingCetearyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningThuja Occidentalis Leaf Oil
MaskingDisodium EDTA
Citrus Aurantium Amara Flower Extract
RefreshingGossypium Herbaceum Fruit Water
MaskingGlucose
HumectantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingWater, Cyclohexasiloxane, Glycerin, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Propanediol, Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin), Niacinamide, Cetearyl Olivate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Sorbitan Olivate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Cetyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol, Ceramide NP, Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Extract, Ceramide Ns, Ceramide As, Ceramide EOP, Ceramide AP, Hyaluronic Acid, Squalane, Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Oil, Glyceryl Stearate, Trehalose, Cetearyl Alcohol, Tromethamine, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Carbomer, Cetearyl Glucoside, Ethylhexylglycerin, Thuja Occidentalis Leaf Oil, Disodium EDTA, Citrus Aurantium Amara Flower Extract, Gossypium Herbaceum Fruit Water, Glucose, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Hydrogenated Lecithin
Water
Skin ConditioningPropanediol
SolventGlycerin
HumectantSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingEthylhexyl Palmitate
EmollientPanthenol
Skin Conditioning1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientCetearyl Olivate
Sorbitan Olivate
EmulsifyingHydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin)
EmollientCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningCeramide Ns
Skin ConditioningCeramide As
Skin ConditioningCeramide EOP
Skin ConditioningCeramide AP
Skin ConditioningCholesterol
EmollientAllantoin
Skin ConditioningGlucose
HumectantBetaine
HumectantSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantPhytosterols
Skin ConditioningStearic Acid
CleansingButylene Glycol
HumectantSodium Polyacrylate
AbsorbentMyristyl Glucoside
CleansingPolyglycerin-3
HumectantC13-16 Isoalkane
SolventHeptyl Undecylenate
EmollientVinyldimethicone
Carbomer
Emulsion StabilisingTromethamine
BufferingArachidyl Alcohol
EmollientHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingPolyglyceryl-6 Distearate
EmulsifyingCandelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran Polyglyceryl-3 Esters
EmulsifyingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningBehenyl Alcohol
EmollientLauryl Glucoside
CleansingPolyglyceryl-6 Laurate
EmulsifyingDisodium EDTA
Dipropylene Glycol
HumectantArachidyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingTocopherol
AntioxidantAdansonia Digitata Seed Oil
EmollientHydrogenated Rice Bran Oil
Skin ConditioningCoptis Japonica Root Extract
Skin ConditioningWater, Propanediol, Glycerin, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Panthenol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin), Ceramide NP, Ceramide Ns, Ceramide As, Ceramide EOP, Ceramide AP, Cholesterol, Allantoin, Glucose, Betaine, Sodium Hyaluronate, Phytosterols, Stearic Acid, Butylene Glycol, Sodium Polyacrylate, Myristyl Glucoside, Polyglycerin-3, C13-16 Isoalkane, Heptyl Undecylenate, Vinyldimethicone, Carbomer, Tromethamine, Arachidyl Alcohol, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate, Candelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran Polyglyceryl-3 Esters, Ethylhexylglycerin, Behenyl Alcohol, Lauryl Glucoside, Polyglyceryl-6 Laurate, Disodium EDTA, Dipropylene Glycol, Arachidyl Glucoside, Tocopherol, Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Rice Bran Oil, Coptis Japonica Root Extract
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.Â
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservativesÂ
This ingredient is also known as Baobab Seed Oil. Like most plant oils, it works by sitting on the skin's surface to slow water loss and keep skin soft.
The fatty acid content of this oil is roughly 25-36% linoleic acid, 20-30% oleic acid, and 25-30% palmitic acid. Plus, it has smaller amounts of stearic and linolenic acid.
Linoleic acid is the most abundant fatty acid naturally found in your epidermis and your skin uses it to build ceramides.
Baobab seed oil also brings some Vitamin E that provides mild antioxidant activity and helps keep the oil itself stable.
An actual human study that ran a 48-hour occlusive patch test found this ingredient caused no significant irritation.
Because this ingredient is full of C16-18 fatty acids that Malassezia feeds on, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Adansonia Digitata Seed OilCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCarbomer is a high-molecular weight polymer of acrylic acid. It is used to form gels and thicken formulas.
Due to its large molecular size, carbomer has minimal skin penetration and is considered an inert ingredient.
A high amount of carbomer can cause pilling or balling up of products. Don't worry, most products contain 1% or less of carbomer.
Learn more about CarbomerCeramide AP is is a skin-identical lipid that mimics what your skin already makes naturally. Ceramides help maintain epidermal integrity and barrier function.
You'll often see this ingredient paired with other ceramides (like ceramide NP), cholesterol, or fatty acids because this combination best mimics the natural lipid mix your skin already has.
The skin's ability to produce ceramides gets disrupted in skin conditions like eczema. This in turn weakens the skin barrier and applying ceramides topically has been shown to replenish what's been lost to restore barrier function.
Most of the studies with Ceramide AP test it as part of a multi-ceramide complex; studies reinforce ceramide AP's role in rebalancing ceramides in skin and improving skin hydration.
Learn more about Ceramide APCeramide AS is formally known as Ceramides 4 and 5.
Ceramides are intercellular lipids naturally found in our skin that bonds dead skin cells together to create a barrier. They are known for their ability to hold water and thus are a great ingredient for dry skin.
Ceramide EOP is formally known as Ceramide 1.
It is naturally found in skin and part of the intercellular "mortar" holding everything together in your outermost layer.
EOP stands for a linked Ester fatty acid, a linked Omega hydroxy fatty acid, and the Phytosphingosine base.
What makes Ceramide EOP special is its ultra-long fatty acid chain; this unique structure allows it to bridge the lipid layers in your skin barrier to prevent water loss (something no other ceramide can do).
Low levels of Ceramide EOP have been found in people with eczema and psoriasis.
Using it together with other ceramides, cholesterol, and linoleic acid have been shown to meaningfully improve hydration and reduce water loss.
In one clinical study, a regimen using Ceramide EOP, NP, and AP led to significant symptom improvements in patients with eczema, psoriasis, and dry skin in just 4 weeks.
You'll usually see concentrations between 0.1-0.5% in formulations. Overall, this is a well-tolerated and safe ingredient for cosmetic use.
Learn more about Ceramide EOPCeramide NP (formerly known as Ceramide 3) is one of the skin's naturally occurring lipids.
Since ceramides are the major lipid components of the skin, they are crucial for maintaining skin barrier and hydration. Ceramide NP most closely mirrors the dominant kind in human skin amongst ceramide subtypes.
This ceramide works by slotting into gaps within the stratum corneum's lipid matrix to limit trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and shield the skin against external irritants.
A study with 312 patients found that using a ceramide-containing routine for 4 weeks reduced the severity of atopic dermatitis by over 61%.
Another clinical study in subjects aged 60 and older found that a ceramide body wash and moisturizer improved skin dryness and itchy skin in 15 days.
Overall, ceramides are considered non-irritating and safety tests have found little to no observable adverse effects from using this ingredient.
Ceramide NP is usually sourced from plants (like soybean or rice bran), or produced synthetically.
Learn more about Ceramide NPCeramide NS is formally known as Ceramide 2. It is one of the major ceramides in the stratum corneum (outermost layer of skin) plays a role in forming a protective barrier.
Due to its structure, skin lipids can be packed tightly and in turn, this strengthens the barrier and reduces water loss.
Studies show conditions like atopic dermatitis can worsen when ceramide NS levels are low.
Learn more about Ceramide NsCetearyl Olivate is a plant-derived emulsifier and texture enhancer. It helps keep the oil and water phases from separating so your formulas stay stable.
You'll likely see it combined with Sorbitan Olivate (together sold as the trade name Olivem 1000). This combination generates a liquid crystal structure that closely resemble the lipid organization of the stratum corneum.
These "skin-like" liquid crystals improve skin barrier integrity and promote the delivery of actives into the skin.
This ingredient is well-tolerated and has no significant sensitization data.
Because it is derived from the fatty acids in olive oil, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl OlivateDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlucose is a simple sugar (a monosaccharide). In skincare, it is mostly a humectant and skin conditioning agent.
Mechanistically, it has multiple hydroxyl groups that hydrogen-bond to water. This pulls moisture into the upper layers of skin to keep the surface soft and hydrated.
It's worth knowing sugars are already a natural component of the skin's NMF (natural moisturizing factor) so it's a molecule that your stratum corneum is well-acquainted with.
Just so you know, glucose is hydrophilic (water-loving) and the stratum corneum is a strong barrier to hydrophilic compounds. This just means penetration is slow and most of the action is happening on the surface.
Gram-to-gram, glucose is not as efficient as a humectant as glycerin. This is why you'll likely see glycose paired with stronger humectants for a bigger hydration payoff.
In skincare, glucose is typically derived from corn or other starch sources.
Learn more about GlucoseGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearateHydrogenated Lecithin is a more stable version of lecithin.
It's made by taking lecithin (a phospholipid commonly found in soybeans and egg yolks) and hydrogenating it. This just means the unsaturated fatty acids are turned into saturated ones so they don't go bad as easily.
This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.
Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.
Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.
A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).
Learn more about Hydrogenated LecithinThis ingredient is a synthetic ingredient with emollient and skin conditioner used to make skincare products feel more lightweight on the skin. It helps improve slip and spreadability without feeling greasy.
Because it is high molecular weight and lipophilic (oil loving), it remains on the surface of skin.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.Â
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Learn more about PropanediolSorbitan Olivate is created from the fatty acids in olive oil and sorbitol.
This ingredient is an oil in water emulsifier. It helps stabilize a product by preventing oils and waters from separating. Sorbitan Olivate also helps hydrate the skin.
This ingredient is also known as part of Olivem 1000, with Cetearyl Olivate being the other part.
According to a manufacturer, this ingredient helps preserve the natural microbiome of skin. Having a healthy microbiome helps keep our skin healthy and protects against harmful bacteria.
Please note, having a healthy microbiome is different from fungal acne; a healthy microbiome includes small amounts of yeast that normally live on your skin without causing problems.
Fungal acne happens when one type of yeast (Malassezia) grows out of control. This is usually because it's feeding on certain oils or fatty acids. Due to the olive oil base, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Sorbitan OlivateTromethamine helps balance the pH and improve the texture of a product. It is synthetically created.
As an emulsifier, Tromethamine prevents oil and water ingredients from separating. This helps stabilize the product and elongate a product's shelf life. Tromethamine also makes a product thicker.
Tromethamine helps balance the pH level of a product. Normal pH level of skin is slightly acidic (~4.75-5.5). The acidity of our skin is maintained by our glands and skin biome. Being slightly acidic allows our skin to create an "acid mantle". This acid mantle is a thin barrier that protects our skin from bacteria and contaminants.
Oral Tromethanmine is an anti-inflammatory drug but plays the role of masking, adding fragrance, and/or balancing pH in skincare.
1,3-Propanediol, 2-amino-2-(hydroxymethyl)-
Learn more about TromethamineWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water