What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantDicaprylyl Carbonate
EmollientSilica
AbrasiveGlycerin
HumectantNiacinamide
SmoothingIsopropyl Isostearate
EmollientCitrus Limon Peel Oil
MaskingCitrus Grandis Peel Oil
MaskingMentha Viridis Leaf Oil
AstringentCitrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil
MaskingLimonene
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingCitral
PerfumingButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningSimmondsia Chinensis Butter
Skin ConditioningHydroxyethyl Urea
HumectantHordeum Vulgare Extract
EmollientTrehalose
HumectantCucumis Sativus Fruit Extract
EmollientPanax Ginseng Root Extract
EmollientSodium Polyaspartate
HumectantTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantSodium PCA
HumectantHelianthus Annuus Seedcake
AbrasiveSorbitol
HumectantCaffeine
Skin ConditioningLinoleic Acid
CleansingOphiopogon Japonicus Root Extract
Skin ConditioningSqualane
EmollientSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantPPG-15 Stearyl Ether
EmollientAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Hydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingSodium Hydroxide
BufferingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningDisodium EDTA
Phenoxyethanol
PreservativeWater, Butylene Glycol, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Silica, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Isopropyl Isostearate, Citrus Limon Peel Oil, Citrus Grandis Peel Oil, Mentha Viridis Leaf Oil, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil, Limonene, Linalool, Citral, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Simmondsia Chinensis Butter, Hydroxyethyl Urea, Hordeum Vulgare Extract, Trehalose, Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Sodium Polyaspartate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sodium PCA, Helianthus Annuus Seedcake, Sorbitol, Caffeine, Linoleic Acid, Ophiopogon Japonicus Root Extract, Squalane, Sodium Hyaluronate, PPG-15 Stearyl Ether, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Hydroxyacetophenone, Carbomer, Caprylyl Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Hydroxide, Ethylhexylglycerin, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol
Water
Skin ConditioningDimethicone
EmollientAlcohol Denat.
AntimicrobialGlycerin
HumectantSilica
AbrasiveButylene Glycol
HumectantCitrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil
MaskingCitrus Limon Peel Oil
MaskingPelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil
MaskingLavandula Angustifolia Oil
MaskingAmyris Balsamifera Bark Oil
MaskingCitrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil
MaskingEugenia Caryophyllus Leaf Oil
MaskingRosa Damascena Flower Oil
MaskingEucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil
PerfumingZingiber Officinale Root Oil
MaskingMentha Viridis Leaf Oil
AstringentLimonene
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingCitronellol
PerfumingCitral
PerfumingGeraniol
PerfumingEugenol
PerfumingDimethicone Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningCucumis Sativus Fruit Extract
EmollientEpilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
Skin ConditioningCistus Incanus Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
Skin ConditioningSucrose
HumectantBambusa Vulgaris Extract
Skin ConditioningPisum Sativum Extract
Skin ConditioningCastanea Sativa Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningAlbizia Julibrissin Bark Extract
MaskingSalicylic Acid
MaskingCaffeine
Skin ConditioningArginine
MaskingSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantScutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract
AstringentLaminaria Saccharina Extract
Skin ProtectingLaminaria Digitata Extract
Skin ProtectingPhospholipids
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Jojoba Esters
Skin ConditioningGlucosamine Hcl
Lauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone
Skin ConditioningDimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantTromethamine
BufferingSilica Silylate
EmollientHexylene Glycol
EmulsifyingSodium Polyacrylate
AbsorbentDisodium EDTA
Phenoxyethanol
PreservativeMica
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77491
Cosmetic ColorantWater, Dimethicone, Alcohol Denat., Glycerin, Silica, Butylene Glycol, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil, Citrus Limon Peel Oil, Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Amyris Balsamifera Bark Oil, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil, Eugenia Caryophyllus Leaf Oil, Rosa Damascena Flower Oil, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil, Zingiber Officinale Root Oil, Mentha Viridis Leaf Oil, Limonene, Linalool, Citronellol, Citral, Geraniol, Eugenol, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract, Epilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Cistus Incanus Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Sucrose, Bambusa Vulgaris Extract, Pisum Sativum Extract, Castanea Sativa Seed Extract, Albizia Julibrissin Bark Extract, Salicylic Acid, Caffeine, Arginine, Sodium Hyaluronate, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Laminaria Saccharina Extract, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Phospholipids, Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters, Glucosamine Hcl, Lauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Caprylyl Glycol, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tromethamine, Silica Silylate, Hexylene Glycol, Sodium Polyacrylate, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Mica, CI 77891, CI 77491
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer is a synthetically created polymer. It's used as a film-forming agent and used to thicken the consistency of products.
Think of it as a supportive ingredient that helps your gel-creams feel silky, "cloud cream-like", and spread evenly without being greasy.
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel evaluated it (along with 22 other acryloyldimethyltaurate polymers) and concluded it's:
Due to its large molecular size, it sits on the surface of skin rather than penetrating it.
Learn more about Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp CopolymerButylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolCaffeine is a naturally occurring plant compound found in coffee beans, tea leaves, cocoa pods, and guarana.
As an antioxidant, caffeine protects your skin from free radical damage caused by UV exposure and envionrmnetal stressors.
Early research also shows that caffeine can help calm redness, soothe irritated skin, and support hair growth by stimulating microcirculation in the scalp.
You might have seen eye creams marketing caffeine as a depuffing ingredient. This is because it is a vasoconstrictor meaning it can temporarily constrict blood vessels, though clinical evidence for this specific use is still limited.
Most skincare products contain this ingredient at concentrations between 1-6%. It is able to penetrate skin easily regardless of skin type or thickness.
Just so you know, a very small number of case reports describe caffeine-induced allergy. This ingredient is generally well-tolerated, non-irritating, and non-sensitizing for the majority of people.
Learn more about CaffeineCaprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid or alcohol, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Learn more about Caprylyl GlycolCitral is the molecule responsible for the fresh lemon scent in lemon, lime, and lemongrass. It is a fragrance ingredient that can be created from plant essential oils or synthetically.
Though Citral has documented antimicrobial activity against acne bacteria (which is where the marketing claims about it being good for acne-prone skin originate), real formulas use it at fragrance-level concentrations under 1% so there's likely no skin benefit.
You should know this ingredient is a known EU fragrance allergen.
Animal studies classifies this ingredient as a weak-to-moderate skin sensitizer and clinical patch testing on eczema patients confirmed it to be both a contact allergen and irritant.
The term 'citral' is a collective term for two geometric isomers: geranial/Citral A and neral/Citral B.
The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.
Learn more about CitralCitrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil is oil from the peel of an orange fruit.
Limonene and linalool make up the majority of oils from citrus peels. Limonene has a "citrus" fragrance. Citrus peels also contain flavonoids, which have anti-inflammatory properties.
Citrus peel is also a rich source of flavonoids. Flavonoids are natural antioxidants and help protect your skin against damage. Flavonoids are a group of compounds naturally found in vegetables and fruits.
The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.
Learn more about Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel OilCitrus Limon Peel Oil is created from the peels of the lemon. It is used to add a lemon-scent to products. Lemon peel oil also has antibacterial, antifungal, and antioxidant properties. However, it may also cause phototoxicity and sensitize skin.
Lemon peel oil contains limonene, a skin sensitizing ingredient. Another component is furanocoumarin, which induces phototoxicity in skin.
Furanocoumarins bind and destabilize your DNA to increase the rate of sunburn.
Most reputable companies will remove furanocoumarins from their formulations.
Learn more about Citrus Limon Peel OilThis extract comes from cucumber. Cucumbers are mostly made up of water (95%), and the other 5% is composed of: vitamin C, caffeic acid, fatty acids, amino acids, and other minerals.
Cucumbers have anti-inflammatory, barrier repair, and hydrating properties.
They contain shikimate dehydrigenase, an enzyme shown to help reduce inflammation and soothe the skin.
The amino acids found in cucumbers help nourish our skin's natural acid mantle (it's an important part of our skin barrier). This slightly acidic film acts as a barrier to protect us from bacteria, viruses, and other contaminants.
Unless you have an allergy to cucumbers, this is generally a non-irritating ingredient.
Fun fact: Cucumis Sativus is native to South Asia and can now be found on every continent.
Learn more about Cucumis Sativus Fruit ExtractDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinLimonene is a fragrance that adds scent and taste to a formulation.
It's found in the peel oil of citrus fruits and other plants such as lavender and eucalyptus. The scent of limonene is generally described as "sweet citrus".
Limonene acts as an antioxidant, meaning it helps neutralize free radicals.
When exposed to air, oxidized limonene may sensitize the skin. Because of this, limonene is often avoided by people with sensitive skin.
The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.
Learn more about LimoneneLinalool is a fragrance and helps add scent to products. It's derived from common plants such as cinnamon, mint, citrus, and lavender.
Like Limonene, this ingredient oxidizes when exposed to air. Oxidized linalool can cause allergies and skin sensitivity.
This ingredient has a scent that is floral, spicy tropical, and citrus-like.
Learn more about LinaloolThis ingredient is also called spearmint oil. It contains carvone (41-79%), limonene (10-22%), and small amounts of other monoterpenes depending on where it's grown.
In cosmetics, this ingredient mostly acts as a fragrancing/masking ingredient and mild astringent.
Lab studies show carvone to have antioxidant and antimicrobial activity, but it is a recognized fragrance allergen. Carvone is a mild skin sensitizer while limonene is a well-known one.
In a 21-year retrospective from a Swedish patch test clinic, 3.5% of patients tested positive for sensitive towards carvone.
Learn more about Mentha Viridis Leaf OilPhenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Silica, also known as silicon dioxide, is a naturally occurring mineral. It is used as a fine, spherical, and porous powder in cosmetics.
Though it has exfoliant properties, the function of silica varies depending on the product.
The unique structure of silica enhances the spreadability and adds smoothness, making it a great texture enhancer.
It is also used as an active carrier, emulsifier, and mattifier due to its ability to absorb excess oil.
In some products, tiny microneedles called spicules are made from silica or hydrolyzed sponge. When you rub them in, they lightly polish away dead skin layers and enhance the penetration of active ingredients.
Learn more about SilicaSodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium HyaluronateTocopheryl Acetate is AKA Vitamin E. It is an antioxidant and protects your skin from free radicals. Free radicals damage the skin by breaking down collagen.
One study found using Tocopheryl Acetate with Vitamin C decreased the number of sunburned cells.
Tocopheryl Acetate is commonly found in both skincare and dietary supplements.
Learn more about Tocopheryl AcetateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water