This anti-aging serum is formulated around Gluconolactone and 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.
This brightening serum is formulated around 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningDimethicone
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantButylene Glycol
HumectantAluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate
AbsorbentIsononyl Isononanoate
EmollientGluconolactone
Skin ConditioningDimethicone Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Phenoxyethanol
Preservative3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin ConditioningPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingPotassium Hydroxide
BufferingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingDimethiconol
EmollientHibiscus Abelmoschus Extract
MaskingParfum
MaskingSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantRetinyl Palmitate
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientPropylene Glycol
HumectantSorbitan Laurate
EmulsifyingTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantHydrolyzed Rice Protein
Skin ConditioningEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingSodium Lauroyl Lactylate
Emulsifying3-Aminopropane Sulfonic Acid
SurfactantCalcium Hydroxymethionine
Skin ConditioningPhyllanthus Emblica Fruit Extract
HumectantDipropylene Glycol
HumectantHydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingTetrasodium EDTA
T-Butyl Alcohol
PerfumingPanax Ginseng Root Extract
EmollientSophora Angustifolia Root Extract
Skin ConditioningHydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
MaskingAcetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester
Skin ConditioningCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningMorus Alba Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningSodium Benzoate
MaskingCeramide AP
Skin ConditioningPhytosphingosine
Skin ConditioningCholesterol
EmollientTocopherol
AntioxidantPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin ConditioningCeramide EOP
Skin ConditioningWater, Dimethicone, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate, Isononyl Isononanoate, Gluconolactone, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Cetearyl Alcohol, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Phenoxyethanol, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Pentylene Glycol, Polysorbate 20, Potassium Hydroxide, Xanthan Gum, Dimethiconol, Hibiscus Abelmoschus Extract, Parfum, Sodium Hyaluronate, Retinyl Palmitate, Caprylyl Glycol, Propylene Glycol, Sorbitan Laurate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Ethylhexylglycerin, Carbomer, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, 3-Aminopropane Sulfonic Acid, Calcium Hydroxymethionine, Phyllanthus Emblica Fruit Extract, Dipropylene Glycol, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Tetrasodium EDTA, T-Butyl Alcohol, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Sophora Angustifolia Root Extract, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Ceramide NP, Morus Alba Leaf Extract, Sodium Benzoate, Ceramide AP, Phytosphingosine, Cholesterol, Tocopherol, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Ceramide EOP
Water
Skin Conditioning3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin ConditioningPropylene Glycol
HumectantPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingPolyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Emulsion StabilisingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantBenzyl Alcohol
PerfumingAllantoin
Skin ConditioningXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingPEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
EmulsifyingSodium Citrate
BufferingLimonene
PerfumingDipropylene Glycol
HumectantLinalool
PerfumingT-Butyl Alcohol
PerfumingParfum
MaskingCitric Acid
BufferingDenatonium Benzoate
MaskingWater, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Propylene Glycol, Polysorbate 20, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Benzyl Alcohol, Allantoin, Xanthan Gum, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Sodium Citrate, Limonene, Dipropylene Glycol, Linalool, T-Butyl Alcohol, Parfum, Citric Acid, Denatonium Benzoate
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is one of the most popular "stable" vitamin C derivatives in skincare.
Plain ascorbic acid is fantastic but notoriously fragile; it browns, oxidizes, and loses potency fast. So attaching an ethyl group to the third carbon of the molecule gives it some cool perks:
In a formula, it does the 3 classic vitamin C jobs: it acts as an antioxidant, helps brighten skin tone by inhibiting tyrosinase, and supports collagen.
The evidence is reasonably solid for a cosmetic ingredient; Liao and colleagues (2018) showed it's significantly more stable than ascorbic acid while still being effective.
A 2021 study by Zerbinati and colleagues tested a serum with 30% 3-O-ethyl-l-ascorbic acid and 1% lactic acid significantly increased collagen production, reduced UVB-induced DNA damage, and decreased melanin on a reconstructed pigmented skin model.
Typical real world usage sits around 0.5-5% (and 1-2% is common for daily serums).
Amounts up to 30% have been shown to be non-irritating on human skin samples, but two isolated cases reported allergic contact dermatitis so a patch test is sensible if you have reactive skin.
Learn more about 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic AcidDipropylene Glycol is a synthetically created humectant, stabilizer, and solvent.
This ingredient helps:
Dipropylene glycol is technically an alcohol, but it belongs to the glycol family (often considered part of the ‘good’ alcohols). This means it is hydrating and gentle on skin unlike drying solvent alcohols like denatured alcohol.
As a masking agent, Dipropylene Glycol can be used to cover the smell of other ingredients. However, it does not have a scent.
Studies show Dipropylene Glycol is considered safe to use in skincare.
Learn more about Dipropylene GlycolEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumPolysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.
It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.
The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.
Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).
True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.
Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Polysorbate 20Propylene Glycol is a synthetic, colorless, odorless liquid that has been a staple in cosmetics for decades. It is a skin conditioning agent, humectant, and solvent.
As a humectant, it draw water to the skin to reduce flaking and restore suppleness. It's also a solvent that helps dissolve other actives and keeps formulas stable across temperature changes.
The CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be nontoxic and clinical studies show no sensitization at cosmetic use concentrations.
True allergic reactions are quite rare: a 15-year retrospective study of 6,751 patients found only 0.31% had a positive reaction (and less than half were considered clinically relevant).
It seemed that when sensitization does occur, it's most commonly linked to topical medication (like corticosteroids) and not cosmetics. Allergic contact dermatitis also appears largely limited to individuals with underlying skin conditions.
Overall, propylene glycol is a well-studied ingredient that most people can tolerate without issue.
Learn more about Propylene GlycolSodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium HyaluronateT-Butyl Alcohol (aka tert-butanol) is a small, clear, camphor-smelling alcohol.
It has two main jobs:
On the safety side, it's well-studied and has a solid track record. Human repeat-insult patch testing showed no skin irritation or sensitization even at 100%.
Typical use levels are pretty tiny, usually less than 1%.
You might see some fear-mongering around this ingredient:
Studies in male rats showed kidney effects but that's because of a rat-specific protein that humans don't make. So this study isn't really relevant to humans.
Though it's not a typical fragrance like parfum, it does have a natural scent. That's why the official COSIng database lists it as 'perfuming' ingredient. It can be used to modify the scent of a formula.
Learn more about T-Butyl AlcoholWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum