What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingGlycerin
HumectantGlyceryl Behenate
EmollientVitis Vinifera Seed Oil
EmollientBehenyl Alcohol
EmollientLecithin
EmollientHouttuynia Cordata Extract
Skin ConditioningCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningPhaeodactylum Tricornutum Extract
HumectantUrea
BufferingYeast Amino Acids
HumectantTrehalose
HumectantInositol
HumectantTaurine
BufferingBetaine
HumectantLactobacillus Ferment
Skin ConditioningHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantTocopherol
AntioxidantEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningPropanediol
SolventSodium Acrylates Copolymer
Xanthan Gum
EmulsifyingCitric Acid
BufferingLeuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
AntimicrobialChlorphenesin
AntimicrobialDehydroacetic Acid
PreservativeSodium Benzoate
MaskingWater, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Glyceryl Behenate, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, Behenyl Alcohol, Lecithin, Houttuynia Cordata Extract, Ceramide NP, Phaeodactylum Tricornutum Extract, Urea, Yeast Amino Acids, Trehalose, Inositol, Taurine, Betaine, Lactobacillus Ferment, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Hydroxyacetophenone, Tocopherol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Propanediol, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Xanthan Gum, Citric Acid, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Chlorphenesin, Dehydroacetic Acid, Sodium Benzoate
Water
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingGlycerin
HumectantPropanediol
SolventPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientSorbitol
HumectantDimethicone
EmollientButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientBehenyl Alcohol
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingAllantoin
Skin ConditioningBHT
AntioxidantCaffeine
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningCeteareth-20
CleansingCetyl Alcohol
EmollientCitric Acid
BufferingDipotassium Glycyrrhizate
HumectantDisodium EDTA
Disodium Ethylene Dicocamide PEG-15 Disulfate
CleansingGlyceryl Stearate Citrate
EmollientNiacinamide
SmoothingPanthenol
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantSodium Hydroxide
BufferingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingWater, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Propanediol, Pentylene Glycol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Sorbitol, Dimethicone, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Cetearyl Alcohol, Behenyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Allantoin, BHT, Caffeine, Caprylyl Glycol, Ceramide NP, Ceteareth-20, Cetyl Alcohol, Citric Acid, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Disodium EDTA, Disodium Ethylene Dicocamide PEG-15 Disulfate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Niacinamide, Panthenol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hydroxide, Xanthan Gum
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Behenyl Alcohol is a type of fatty alcohol (these are different from the drying, solvent alcohols).
Fatty Alcohols have hydrating properties and are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product. They are usually derived from natural fats and oils; behenyl alcohol is derived from the fats of vegetable oils.
Emollients help keep your skin soft and hydrated by creating a film that traps moisture in.
In 2000, Behenyl Alcohol was approved by the US as medicine to reduce the duration of cold sores.
Learn more about Behenyl AlcoholCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCeramide NP (formerly known as Ceramide 3) is one of the skin's naturally occurring lipids.
Since ceramides are the major lipid components of the skin, they are crucial for maintaining skin barrier and hydration. Ceramide NP most closely mirrors the dominant kind in human skin amongst ceramide subtypes.
This ceramide works by slotting into gaps within the stratum corneum's lipid matrix to limit trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and shield the skin against external irritants.
A study with 312 patients found that using a ceramide-containing routine for 4 weeks reduced the severity of atopic dermatitis by over 61%.
Another clinical study in subjects aged 60 and older found that a ceramide body wash and moisturizer improved skin dryness and itchy skin in 15 days.
Overall, ceramides are considered non-irritating and safety tests have found little to no observable adverse effects from using this ingredient.
Ceramide NP is usually sourced from plants (like soybean or rice bran), or produced synthetically.
Learn more about Ceramide NPCitric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Learn more about Citric AcidGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil is a plant oil derived from the seeds of a sunflower.
It is rich in fatty acids, primarily linoleic acid and oleic acid. This gives it emollient and skin conditioning properties.
The reason this ingredient is so effective is because it forms a thin film on the skin that reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) while supplying linoleic acid to the stratum corneum to improve barrier strength.
The high linoleic acid content is particularly noteworthy for acne-prone skin.
Research suggests that acne-prone skin tends to be deficient in linoleic acid in sebum. Topical application may help replenish this to support a healthier follicular environment and less comedone-promoting sebum.
One randomized study found sunflower seed oil preserved skin barrier integrity in adult volunteers with and without atopic dermatitis (outperforming olive oil).
This ingredient is well-studied, gentle, and an effective emollient suitable for most skin types.
On fungal acne: This ingredient may not be Fungal acne (Malassezia folliculitis) safe. This is because it contains fatty acids with carbon chain lengths in the C11-C24 range.
Learn more about Helianthus Annuus Seed OilPropanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.Â
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Learn more about PropanediolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum