What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Snail Secretion Filtrate
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantCyclopentasiloxane
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantBis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane
EmollientPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingGlycosyl Trehalose
Emulsion StabilisingHydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate
HumectantTriethanolamine
BufferingDimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Skin ConditioningDimethicone
EmollientHydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningSodium Polyacrylate
AbsorbentCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingPortulaca Oleracea Extract
Skin ConditioningCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialNelumbo Nucifera Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningBetula Platyphylla Japonica Juice
Skin ConditioningTropolone
Skin ConditioningCopper Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningAllantoin
Skin ConditioningPanthenol
Skin ConditioningOlea Europaea Fruit Oil
MaskingHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientPalmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Skin ConditioningAdenosine
Skin ConditioningDisodium EDTA
Snail Secretion Filtrate, Butylene Glycol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Glycerin, Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, Polysorbate 20, Sodium Hyaluronate, Carbomer, Glycosyl Trehalose, Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate, Triethanolamine, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Polyacrylate, Centella Asiatica Extract, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Nelumbo Nucifera Flower Extract, Betula Platyphylla Japonica Juice, Tropolone, Copper Tripeptide-1, Allantoin, Panthenol, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Adenosine, Disodium EDTA
Hippophae Rhamnoides Water
MaskingNiacinamide
SmoothingButylene Glycol
HumectantGlycerin
Humectant1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningHydrogenated Didecene
Skin ConditioningWater
Skin ConditioningHydrogenated Polydecene
EmollientCoptis Japonica Root Extract
Skin ConditioningPyrus Communis Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningIris Florentina Root Extract
MaskingCucumis Melo Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningHedera Helix Leaf/Stem Extract
AntimicrobialUlmus Davidiana Root Extract
Skin ConditioningAmaranthus Caudatus Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantRosa Damascena Flower Water
MaskingJojoba Esters
EmollientIsononyl Isononanoate
EmollientPolyglyceryl-3 Distearate
EmulsifyingAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
Emulsifying3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin ConditioningAscorbyl Tetraisopalmitate
AntioxidantGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningAdenosine
Skin ConditioningGlyceryl Stearate Citrate
EmollientDisodium EDTA
Hydroxydecyl Ubiquinone
AntioxidantCyamopsis Tetragonoloba Gum
Emulsion StabilisingAgar
MaskingGlutathione
Arbutin
AntioxidantBeta-Glucan
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingSodium DNA
Skin ConditioningFerulic Acid
AntimicrobialTris(Tetramethylhydroxypiperidinol)Citrate
StabilisingAmyris Balsamifera Bark Oil
MaskingHydrolyzed Collagen
EmollientArginine/Lysine Polypeptide
Skin ConditioningBakuchiol
AntimicrobialHippophae Rhamnoides Water, Niacinamide, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydrogenated Didecene, Water, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Coptis Japonica Root Extract, Pyrus Communis Fruit Extract, Iris Florentina Root Extract, Cucumis Melo Seed Extract, Hedera Helix Leaf/Stem Extract, Ulmus Davidiana Root Extract, Amaranthus Caudatus Seed Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Rosa Damascena Flower Water, Jojoba Esters, Isononyl Isononanoate, Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, Glyceryl Stearate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Hydroxyacetophenone, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Disodium EDTA, Hydroxydecyl Ubiquinone, Cyamopsis Tetragonoloba Gum, Agar, Glutathione, Arbutin, Beta-Glucan, Tocopherol, Xanthan Gum, Sodium DNA, Ferulic Acid, Tris(Tetramethylhydroxypiperidinol)Citrate, Amyris Balsamifera Bark Oil, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Arginine/Lysine Polypeptide, Bakuchiol
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Learn more about AdenosineButylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolCentella Asiatica Extract (Centella) is one of the most researched botanical extracts in skincare with decades of studies backing its effects on inflammation, collagen, and the skin barrier.
That research keeps pointing back to the same four triterpenoid saponins: Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, Asiatic Acid, and Madecassic Acid.
These compounds allow centella to dial back inflammation, encourage the skin to build and hold onto collagen, support the barrier and hydration, and bring solid antioxidant activity to protect against signs of aging.
Centella also carries a nice supporting cast of Vitamin A, vitamin C, several B vitamins, and amino acids. Put it all together and you get an ingredient that soothes, hydrates, and protects, all at once.
Most of centella's magic comes from the four big compounds (Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, Asiatic Acid, and Madecassic Acid). These are the actives doing the heavy lifting in almost every centella study.
Here is the short version of what they do in the skin:
So it is not just soothing for the sake of soothing. Centella calms the skin AND helps it rebuild.
Just FYI, not all centella on an ingredient list is the same. What you are getting actually depends on the extract:
Fun fact on the ratios: the leaves tend to be richest in Madecassoside and Asiaticoside, and lower in the two acids. The exact amounts shift with where the plant is grown and how it is processed. This means purity really does vary brand to brand.
Centella is one of the most easygoing actives out there.
It layers well with basically everything: niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, peptides, and vitamin C, and also pairs nicely with stronger actives like retinoids and exfoliating acids where it can help take the edge off irritation.
On the safety side, centella and its triterpenes are classified as weak sensitizers, meaning allergic reactions are possible but uncommon.
Patch tests at 1% and 5% came back negative in test panels, and creams at typical use levels did not cause allergic reactions across large groups of people.
But as with any new active, a patch test is still a smart move for very reactive skin.
Centella is widely used because it is effective at low percentages. For context, human safety testing found no meaningful irritation from creams containing centella extract at everyday use levels (the tested amounts were well under 1%).
The irritancy threshold in animal testing was also above 30% (so real-world formulas sit far below anything concerning).
In collagen lab studies, higher concentrations drove more collagen synthesis, so serums built around centella tend to feature it more prominently.
Bottom line: you will find centella working nicely anywhere from a fraction of a percent up to hero-ingredient levels depending on whether it is a supporting soother or the main event.
Fun fact: Centella has been used as a medicine and in food for many centuries. As a medicine, it is used to treat burns, scratches, and wounds.
Learn more about Centella Asiatica ExtractDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinSodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium Hyaluronate