What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantPrunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil
MaskingCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingPentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate
EmollientCetyl Alcohol
EmollientZea Mays Starch
AbsorbentButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningAlcohol Denat.
AntimicrobialPetrolatum
EmollientPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientDimethicone
EmollientPEG-40 Stearate
EmulsifyingCera Alba
EmollientHydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid
BufferingCI 14700
Cosmetic ColorantCI 19140
Cosmetic ColorantSaccharomyces/Xylinum/Black Tea Ferment
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Linseed Extract
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Soy Protein
HumectantHydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
HumectantSodium Hydroxide
BufferingSodium Benzoate
MaskingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeAdenosine
Skin ConditioningStearyl Alcohol
EmollientAcetyl Tetrapeptide-9
Skin ConditioningPoloxamer 338
EmulsifyingDimethiconol
EmollientLimonene
PerfumingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingPentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
AntioxidantBenzyl Alcohol
PerfumingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientAlpha-Isomethyl Ionone
PerfumingSorbitan Tristearate
EmulsifyingMyristyl Alcohol
EmollientGeraniol
PerfumingHexyl Cinnamal
PerfumingParfum
MaskingWater, Glycerin, Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Cetyl Alcohol, Zea Mays Starch, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Alcohol Denat., Petrolatum, Pentylene Glycol, Glyceryl Stearate, Dimethicone, PEG-40 Stearate, Cera Alba, Hydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid, CI 14700, CI 19140, Saccharomyces/Xylinum/Black Tea Ferment, Hydrolyzed Linseed Extract, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Benzoate, Phenoxyethanol, Adenosine, Stearyl Alcohol, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9, Poloxamer 338, Dimethiconol, Limonene, Xanthan Gum, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Benzyl Alcohol, Caprylyl Glycol, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Sorbitan Tristearate, Myristyl Alcohol, Geraniol, Hexyl Cinnamal, Parfum
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 3%
UV AbsorberEthylhexyl Salicylate 5%
UV AbsorberOctocrylene 7%
UV AbsorberWater
Skin ConditioningDimethicone
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantHydrogenated Polyisobutene
EmollientBeeswax
Emulsion StabilisingPoly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate
Emulsion StabilisingYeast Extract
Skin ConditioningGuanosine
Skin ConditioningCyathea Medullaris Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningSucrose Stearate
EmollientSecale Cereale Seed Extract
AbrasiveTocopherol
AntioxidantSodium Polyacrylate
AbsorbentSodium Hydroxide
BufferingCI 14700
Cosmetic ColorantSodium Levulinate
Skin ConditioningStearic Acid
CleansingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeAdenosine
Skin ConditioningPEG-100 Stearate
SurfactantEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningPalmitic Acid
EmollientSilica
AbrasiveChlorphenesin
AntimicrobialCI 19140
Cosmetic ColorantDimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Skin ConditioningDimethiconol
EmollientLimonene
PerfumingPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningBenzyl Alcohol
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingCinnamic Acid
PerfumingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingMyristic Acid
CleansingDisodium Stearoyl Glutamate
CleansingDisodium EDTA
Citronellol
PerfumingAluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate
AbsorbentCoumarin
PerfumingLevulinic Acid
PerfumingGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientGlyceryl Caprylate
EmollientParfum
MaskingButyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 3%, Ethylhexyl Salicylate 5%, Octocrylene 7%, Water, Dimethicone, Glycerin, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Beeswax, Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate, Yeast Extract, Guanosine, Cyathea Medullaris Leaf Extract, Sucrose Stearate, Secale Cereale Seed Extract, Tocopherol, Sodium Polyacrylate, Sodium Hydroxide, CI 14700, Sodium Levulinate, Stearic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Adenosine, PEG-100 Stearate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Palmitic Acid, Silica, Chlorphenesin, CI 19140, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethiconol, Limonene, Pentylene Glycol, Benzyl Alcohol, Linalool, Xanthan Gum, Cinnamic Acid, Caprylyl Glycol, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Myristic Acid, Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Disodium EDTA, Citronellol, Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate, Coumarin, Levulinic Acid, Glyceryl Stearate, Glyceryl Caprylate, Parfum
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Learn more about AdenosineBenzyl Alcohol is an aromatic alcohol with several roles: it's a preservative, solvent, and mild fragrance component with a floral scent.
This ingredient has been deemed safe for use in cosmetic formulations at concentrations up to 5%, and up to 10% in hair dyes. You'll typically see 0.5-2% in most rinse-off or leave-on products.
As a preservative, it works by disrupting the membrane of microbial proteins. This helps keep bacteria and fungi from growing in your products.
The sensitization picture is actually quite assuring as well:of nearly 71,000 patients patch tested with benzyl alcohol, only 0.21% showed a positive reaction with most of them being weakly positive.
This led researchers to conclude that benzyl alcohol cannot be regarded as a significant contact allergen.
It is worth noting this ingredient is classified as one of the EU's regulated fragrance allergens and restricted to 1% in finished products.
Labels must also declare it in concentrations above 0.001% in leave-on products and 0.01% in rinse-off products.
At concentrations around 5%, localized redness and itching can appear as a direct irritant response and not as a true allergic reaction.
Learn more about Benzyl AlcoholCaprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Learn more about Caprylyl GlycolCi 14700, also known as Red No. 4, is a synthetic red dye derived from petroleum. It is water soluble.
CI 19140 is also known as Tartrazine. Tartrazine is a synthetic dye used in cosmetics, foods, and medicine to add a yellow color.
Tartrazine is created from petroleum and is water-soluble.
Some people may experience allergies from this dye, especially asthmatics and those with an aspirin intolerance.
Learn more about CI 19140Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Learn more about DimethiconeDimethiconol is a silicone that resembles the popular dimethicone. Like other silicones, it is an emollient. Emollients create a thin film on skin to prevent moisture from escaping.
This ingredient helps to create a silky texture and improve spreadability. Due to its high molecular weight and thickness, it is often combined with cyclopentasiloxane.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearateLimonene is a fragrance that adds scent and taste to a formulation.
It's found in the peel oil of citrus fruits and other plants such as lavender and eucalyptus. The scent of limonene is generally described as "sweet citrus".
Limonene acts as an antioxidant, meaning it helps neutralize free radicals.
When exposed to air, oxidized limonene may sensitize the skin. Because of this, limonene is often avoided by people with sensitive skin.
The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.
Learn more about LimoneneParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumPentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:
Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.
On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.
Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.
Learn more about Pentylene GlycolPhenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Learn more about PhenoxyethanolSodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.
In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.
Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.
"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.
Learn more about Sodium HydroxideWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum