What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
Humectant
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate
EmollientTheobroma Cacao Seed Butter
Emollient
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Cetearyl Alcohol
Emollient
Propanediol
Solvent
Niacinamide
Smoothing
Triisostearin
Skin Conditioning
Cyclopentasiloxane
Emollient
Polysorbate 60
Emulsifying
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin Conditioning
Pyrus Malus Fruit Water
MaskingHydrolyzed Pearl
Skin ConditioningFucus Vesiculosus Extract
Emollient
Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract
Skin ConditioningPelvetia Canaliculata Extract
Skin ProtectingDimethicone
Emollient
Pentylene Glycol
Skin Conditioning
Cyclohexasiloxane
Emollient
Synthetic Beeswax
Emulsion Stabilising
Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingCetearyl Glucoside
Emulsifying
Sorbitan Stearate
Emulsifying
Butylene Glycol
Humectant
Hydrogenated Polydecene
EmollientCaprylyl Glycol
Emollient
Squalane
Emollient
Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Skin Conditioning
Ethylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningAdenosine
Skin Conditioning
Citric Acid
Buffering
Laureth-8
EmulsifyingSodium Hyaluronate
Humectant
Pentasodium Pentetate
Polyglutamic Acid
Skin Conditioning
Disodium EDTA
Phenoxyethanol
Preservative
Parfum
Masking
Water, Glycerin, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetearyl Alcohol, Propanediol, Niacinamide, Triisostearin, Cyclopentasiloxane, Polysorbate 60, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Pyrus Malus Fruit Water, Hydrolyzed Pearl, Fucus Vesiculosus Extract, Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract, Pelvetia Canaliculata Extract, Dimethicone, Pentylene Glycol, Cyclohexasiloxane, Synthetic Beeswax, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Cetearyl Glucoside, Sorbitan Stearate, Butylene Glycol, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Caprylyl Glycol, Squalane, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Citric Acid, Laureth-8, Sodium Hyaluronate, Pentasodium Pentetate, Polyglutamic Acid, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Parfum
Oryza Sativa Bran Water
Masking
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
Humectant
Butylene Glycol
Humectant
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate
EmollientPentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate
Emollient
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
EmollientSynthetic Beeswax
Emulsion Stabilising
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin Conditioning
Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
Emulsifying
Vinyldimethicone
Pentylene Glycol
Skin Conditioning
1,2-Hexanediol
Skin Conditioning
Behenyl Alcohol
Emollient
Glyceryl Stearate
Emollient
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Bisabolol
Antioxidant
Cetearyl Olivate
Panthenol
Skin Conditioning
Sorbitan Olivate
Emulsifying
Caprylyl Glycol
Emollient
Ethylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingAdenosine
Skin Conditioning
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Sodium Hyaluronate
Humectant
Ceramide NP
Skin Conditioning
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Humectant
Oryza Sativa Bran Oil
Emollient
Tocopherol
Antioxidant
Phytosphingosine
Skin Conditioning
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Emulsifying
Oryza Sativa Bran Water, Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Synthetic Beeswax, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Vinyldimethicone, Pentylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Behenyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Bisabolol, Cetearyl Olivate, Panthenol, Sorbitan Olivate, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Xanthan Gum, Adenosine, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Ceramide NP, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Oryza Sativa Bran Oil, Tocopherol, Phytosphingosine, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Hydrogenated Lecithin
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Learn more about AdenosineButylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolThis ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Learn more about Butyrospermum Parkii ButterCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCaprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Learn more about Caprylyl GlycolCetyl Ethylhexanoate is an emollient ester. It comes from cetearyl alcohol and 2-ethylhexanoic acid.
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate is an emollient that adds a velvety feel to skin without being greasy or oily. Emollients help trap moisture into your skin, keeping your skin soft and hydrated.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinPentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:
Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.
On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.
Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.
Learn more about Pentylene GlycolSodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium HyaluronateSynthetic beeswax is created to be identical in structure to beeswax without involving bees, making it a go-to for vegan formulas.
It's mainly used an an emulsion stabilizer and thickener.
This ingredient (alongside other synthetic waxes) have been concluded to be safe in cosmetics under the present practices.
Reported usage goes up to 18% and it is non-sensitizing.
Just one caveat for fungal acne: This ingredient is made up of C16-32 fatty acids and fatty acid esters. Part of this overlaps with the C11-24 range that the Malassezia yeast can feed on, so it's not fungal-acne safe.
Learn more about Synthetic BeeswaxWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water
