What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantButylene Glycol
HumectantCyclopentasiloxane
EmollientCetyl Ricinoleate
EmollientDimethicone
EmollientCetearyl Methicone
Skin ConditioningGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientPEG-100 Stearate
Squalane
EmollientAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingBHT
AntioxidantC30-45 Alkyl Dimethicone
Skin ConditioningCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingCeramide AP
Skin ConditioningCeramide EOP
Skin ConditioningCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientCholesterol
EmollientDimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Skin ConditioningDisodium EDTA
Fraxinus Excelsior Bark Extract
Skin ConditioningHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingIsohexadecane
EmollientMica
Cosmetic ColorantNiacinamide
SmoothingPalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningPanthenol
Skin ConditioningPhytosphingosine
Skin ConditioningPolymethyl Methacrylate
Polysorbate 20
EmulsifyingPolysorbate 60
EmulsifyingRetinol
Skin ConditioningSilanetriol
Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
EmulsifyingTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantTromethamine
BufferingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingBenzoic Acid
MaskingChlorphenesin
AntimicrobialPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeSorbic Acid
PreservativeCI 77491
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantWater, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cetyl Ricinoleate, Dimethicone, Cetearyl Methicone, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Squalane, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, BHT, C30-45 Alkyl Dimethicone, Carbomer, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Ceramide NP, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cholesterol, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Disodium EDTA, Fraxinus Excelsior Bark Extract, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Isohexadecane, Mica, Niacinamide, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Panthenol, Phytosphingosine, Polymethyl Methacrylate, Polysorbate 20, Polysorbate 60, Retinol, Silanetriol, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tromethamine, Xanthan Gum, Benzoic Acid, Chlorphenesin, Phenoxyethanol, Sorbic Acid, CI 77491, CI 77891
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingPolysilicone-11
Dimethicone
EmollientCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientPropylene Glycol
HumectantGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientNiacinamide
SmoothingTetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
AntioxidantTranexamic Acid
AstringentSynthetic Fluorphlogopite
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Skin ConditioningPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeCaffeine
Skin ConditioningOlive Glycerides
EmulsifyingCeteareth-12
EmulsifyingCeteareth-20
CleansingCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingAlpha-Arbutin
AntioxidantButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningTriethanolamine
BufferingDisodium EDTA
Tocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantCetyl Palmitate
EmollientButylene Glycol
HumectantCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingLaureth-12
EmulsifyingRetinol
Skin ConditioningMicrococcus Lysate
Skin ConditioningRetinyl Palmitate
Skin ConditioningPhospholipids
Skin ConditioningRetinal
Skin ConditioningSodium Lactate
BufferingBHT
AntioxidantCI 77491
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77492
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77499
Cosmetic ColorantBHA
AntioxidantAscorbic Acid
AntioxidantTocopherol
AntioxidantPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientPalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin ConditioningAcetyl Hexapeptide-49
Skin ConditioningOligopeptide-1
Skin ConditioningWater, Glycerin, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Polysilicone-11, Dimethicone, Cetearyl Alcohol, Propylene Glycol, Glyceryl Stearate, Niacinamide, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Tranexamic Acid, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Phenoxyethanol, Caffeine, Olive Glycerides, Ceteareth-12, Ceteareth-20, Carbomer, Alpha-Arbutin, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Triethanolamine, Disodium EDTA, Tocopheryl Acetate, Cetyl Palmitate, Butylene Glycol, Ceramide NP, Ethylhexylglycerin, Polysorbate 20, Laureth-12, Retinol, Micrococcus Lysate, Retinyl Palmitate, Phospholipids, Retinal, Sodium Lactate, BHT, CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499, BHA, Ascorbic Acid, Tocopherol, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Caprylyl Glycol, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Acetyl Hexapeptide-49, Oligopeptide-1
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
BHT is a synthetic antioxidant and preservative.
As an antioxidant, it helps your body fight off free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells.
As a preservative, it is used to stabilize products and prevent them from degrading. Specifically, BHT prevents degradation from oxidation.
The concerns related to BHT come from oral studies; this ingredient is currently allowed for use by both the FDA and EU.
However, it was recently restricted for use in the UK as of April 2024.
Learn more about BHTButylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolCarbomer is a high-molecular weight polymer of acrylic acid. It is used to form gels and thicken formulas.
Due to its large molecular size, carbomer has minimal skin penetration and is considered an inert ingredient.
A high amount of carbomer can cause pilling or balling up of products. Don't worry, most products contain 1% or less of carbomer.
Learn more about CarbomerCeramide NP (formerly known as Ceramide 3) is one of the skin's naturally occurring lipids.
Since ceramides are the major lipid components of the skin, they are crucial for maintaining skin barrier and hydration. Ceramide NP most closely mirrors the dominant kind in human skin amongst ceramide subtypes.
This ceramide works by slotting into gaps within the stratum corneum's lipid matrix to limit trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and shield the skin against external irritants.
A study with 312 patients found that using a ceramide-containing routine for 4 weeks reduced the severity of atopic dermatitis by over 61%.
Another clinical study in subjects aged 60 and older found that a ceramide body wash and moisturizer improved skin dryness and itchy skin in 15 days.
Overall, ceramides are considered non-irritating and safety tests have found little to no observable adverse effects from using this ingredient.
Ceramide NP is usually sourced from plants (like soybean or rice bran), or produced synthetically.
Learn more about Ceramide NPCetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholCi 77491 is also hydrated iron III oxide. It's sole purpose is to give a red/pink hue to products.
Iron III oxides are classified as inorganic chemicals for coloring.
Synthetically created Ci 77491 is considered safer than those naturally found. This is because the synthetically created version may contain less impurities. Iron oxides are generally non-toxic and non-allergenic.
Learn more about CI 77491Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Learn more about DimethiconeDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearateNiacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Learn more about NiacinamidePalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 (formerly Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-3) is a lab-made peptide with anti-inflammatory and skin-repairing benefits. It's made up of four amino acids (glycine, glutamine, proline, and arginine) and palmitic acid (which helps it penetrate skin more effectively).
This ingredient helps reduce inflammation by limiting the production of interleukin-6 (IL-6), a chemical that triggers inflammatory responses, particularly after UV exposure.
Less inflammation = slower collagen breakdown and a longer-lasting, youthful appearance.
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 also stimulates collagen production and supports a healthier skin barrier.
Over time, this can improve skin firmness, hydration, and reduce the appearance of fine lines. It’s commonly paired with Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 in the well-known Matrixyl 3000 complex for enhanced anti-aging effects.
This ingredient has been shown to be effective and safe in cosmetic use and you'll typically find it in small amounts (less than 0.01%).
Due to its palmitic acid base, it may not be safe for Malassezia folliculitis.
Read more about other common types of peptides here:
Learn more about Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 is also known as pal-GHK. It is made up of 3 amino acids and palmitic acid, a fatty acid that helps it absorb into skin more easily.
This peptide is as a signal peptide, meaning it tells the skin to produce more collagen. Collagen is the key protein that helps form the skin's structure and keep it plump, firm, and hydrated.
By boosting collagen production, this ingredient supports a stronger skin barrier and helps reduce the appearance of wrinkles.
You'll most likely see this ingredient paired with Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 in the well-known Matrixyl 3000 complex. While results from in-house testing should be viewed cautiously, this peptide duo is among the most studied and widely used in modern skincare.
Due to its palmitic acid base, this ingredient may not be safe for Malassezia folliculitis.
Read more about other common types of peptides here:
Learn more about Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1Phenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Polysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.
It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.
The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.
Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).
True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.
Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Polysorbate 20Retinol is a gold-standard ingredient for anti-aging. It is a form of Vitamin A and belongs to the class of retinoids that also includes tretinoin.
Why is retinol famous?
It has the most scientific studies backing up its skin benefits out of all the non-prescription ingredients.
Retinol is proven to:
This is why retinol is effective at removing wrinkles, fading dark spots, treating acne, and reducing the appearance of pores.
Studies show retinol is less effective when exposed to UV. Be sure to look for appropriate packaging to keep your retinol potent (similar to Vitamin C).
Using retinol or any retinoids will increase sun-sensitivity in the first few months. Though studies show retinoids increase your skin's natural SPF with continuous use, it is best to always wear sunscreen and sun-protection.
We recommend speaking with a medical professional about using this ingredient during pregnancy.
Retinol may cause irritation in some people, so be sure to patch test. Experts recommend 'ramping up' retinol use: start using this ingredient once a week and work up to using it daily.
Read about Tretinoin
Learn more about RetinolTocopheryl Acetate is AKA Vitamin E. It is an antioxidant and protects your skin from free radicals. Free radicals damage the skin by breaking down collagen.
One study found using Tocopheryl Acetate with Vitamin C decreased the number of sunburned cells.
Tocopheryl Acetate is commonly found in both skincare and dietary supplements.
Learn more about Tocopheryl AcetateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water