What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingPolysilicone-11
Dimethicone
EmollientCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientPropylene Glycol
HumectantGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientNiacinamide
SmoothingTetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
AntioxidantTranexamic Acid
AstringentSynthetic Fluorphlogopite
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Skin ConditioningPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeCaffeine
Skin ConditioningOlive Glycerides
EmulsifyingCeteareth-12
EmulsifyingCeteareth-20
CleansingCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingAlpha-Arbutin
AntioxidantButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningTriethanolamine
BufferingDisodium EDTA
Tocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantCetyl Palmitate
EmollientButylene Glycol
HumectantCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingLaureth-12
EmulsifyingRetinol
Skin ConditioningMicrococcus Lysate
Skin ConditioningRetinyl Palmitate
Skin ConditioningPhospholipids
Skin ConditioningRetinal
Skin ConditioningSodium Lactate
BufferingBHT
AntioxidantCI 77491
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77492
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77499
Cosmetic ColorantBHA
AntioxidantAscorbic Acid
AntioxidantTocopherol
AntioxidantPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientPalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin ConditioningAcetyl Hexapeptide-49
Skin ConditioningOligopeptide-1
Skin ConditioningWater, Glycerin, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Polysilicone-11, Dimethicone, Cetearyl Alcohol, Propylene Glycol, Glyceryl Stearate, Niacinamide, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Tranexamic Acid, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Phenoxyethanol, Caffeine, Olive Glycerides, Ceteareth-12, Ceteareth-20, Carbomer, Alpha-Arbutin, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Triethanolamine, Disodium EDTA, Tocopheryl Acetate, Cetyl Palmitate, Butylene Glycol, Ceramide NP, Ethylhexylglycerin, Polysorbate 20, Laureth-12, Retinol, Micrococcus Lysate, Retinyl Palmitate, Phospholipids, Retinal, Sodium Lactate, BHT, CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499, BHA, Ascorbic Acid, Tocopherol, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Caprylyl Glycol, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Acetyl Hexapeptide-49, Oligopeptide-1
Water
Skin ConditioningDimethicone
EmollientPalmitoyl Oligopeptide
CleansingPalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin ConditioningSaccharomyces Lysate
Skin ConditioningArnica Montana Flower Extract
MaskingAllium Cepa Bulb Extract
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingCetyl Palmitate
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantCeteareth-20
CleansingCetyl Alcohol
EmollientAscorbyl Palmitate
AntioxidantSqualane
EmollientRetinyl Palmitate
Skin ConditioningPinus Pinaster Bark Extract
AntioxidantButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningBeta-Carotene
Skin ConditioningUbiquinone
AntioxidantCopper Gluconate
Skin ConditioningGlucosamine
Laminaria Saccharina Extract
Skin ProtectingVitis Vinifera Seed Extract
AntimicrobialAllantoin
Skin ConditioningLaminaria Japonica Extract
Skin ProtectingBisabolol
AntioxidantChitosan
Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract
MaskingSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantPhospholipids
Skin ConditioningMethylparaben
PreservativeSteareth-2
EmulsifyingPhytosphingosine
Skin ConditioningWater, Dimethicone, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Saccharomyces Lysate, Arnica Montana Flower Extract, Allium Cepa Bulb Extract, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetyl Palmitate, Glycerin, Ceteareth-20, Cetyl Alcohol, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Squalane, Retinyl Palmitate, Pinus Pinaster Bark Extract, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Beta-Carotene, Ubiquinone, Copper Gluconate, Glucosamine, Laminaria Saccharina Extract, Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract, Allantoin, Laminaria Japonica Extract, Bisabolol, Chitosan, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Phospholipids, Methylparaben, Steareth-2, Phytosphingosine
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Learn more about Butyrospermum Parkii ButterThis ingredient is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping the skin prevent moisture loss.
It helps thicken a product's formula and makes it easier to spread by dissolving clumping compounds.
Caprylic Triglyceride is made by combining glycerin with coconut oil, forming a clear liquid. Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. It is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid. In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Be sure to patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCeteareth-20 is an emulsifier and surfactant made by reacting cetearyl alcohol with 20 moles of ethylene oxide.
This gives it both oil and water-loving properties that makes it an effect emulsifier; it's really great at pulling oil droplets into water to create a stable, creamy, and easy-to-spread base.
Typical use ranges from 0.5-30%. Most leave-on products are in the 1-10% zone.
The 20 ethylene oxide units is well above the PEG-10 threshold and therefore not a food source for Malassezia (it's fungal acne safe).
This ingredient has a comedogenic rating of 2 and an irritancy rating of 3. These numbers come from testing the raw ingredient on rabbit ears and doesn't reflect how it will behave in a finished product.
In practice, this ingredient is a well-tolerated ingredient. The ratings reflect cautious lab conditions and not real-world use. Just be sure to patch test any formulas you feel unsure about.
Learn more about Ceteareth-20Cetyl Palmitate is a wax-like substance.
It comes from palmitic acid and palmityl alcohol. Cetyl Palmitate may not be safe for Malassezia folliculitis, or fungal-acne.
This ingredient is naturally found in the guava fruit and stony corals.
Learn more about Cetyl PalmitateDimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Learn more about DimethiconeGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinPalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 (formerly Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-3) is a lab-made peptide with anti-inflammatory and skin-repairing benefits. It's made up of four amino acids (glycine, glutamine, proline, and arginine) and palmitic acid (which helps it penetrate skin more effectively).
This ingredient helps reduce inflammation by limiting the production of interleukin-6 (IL-6), a chemical that triggers inflammatory responses, particularly after UV exposure.
Less inflammation = slower collagen breakdown and a longer-lasting, youthful appearance.
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 also stimulates collagen production and supports a healthier skin barrier.
Over time, this can improve skin firmness, hydration, and reduce the appearance of fine lines. It’s commonly paired with Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 in the well-known Matrixyl 3000 complex for enhanced anti-aging effects.
This ingredient has been shown to be effective and safe in cosmetic use and you'll typically find it in small amounts (less than 0.01%).
Due to its palmitic acid base, it may not be safe for Malassezia folliculitis.
Read more about other common types of peptides here:
Learn more about Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7Phospholipids are a family of skin-identical lipids that makeup the structural backbone of every cell membrane in your body.
In cosmetics, they function as skin conditioning agents with emulsifier and surfactant properties. They're typically sourced from soybean or sunflower lecithin (or sometimes egg yolk or marine sources).
Because they mirror the lipids naturally found in the deeper layers of your skin, topical phospholipids help reinforce the lipid matrix, reduce transepidermal water loss, and leave skin feeling conditioned.
They're also used to form liposomes, or tiny self-assembling vesible used to stabilize actives like vitamin c or retinol. This helps these ingredients integrate into the upper layers of skin more easily.
Phospholipids are compatible with everything and the CIR Expert Panel has concluded them to be safe at current use levels.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe since phospholipids contain fatty acid chains in the C11-24 range that the malassezia yeast likes to feed on.
Some types of phospholipids include:
Learn more about PhospholipidsRetinyl palmitate is a form of retinoid. Retinoids are the superstar class of anti-aging ingredients that include tretinoin and retinol.
This particular ingredient has had a bumpy year with its rise and fall in popularity.
First, Retinyl palmitate is created from palmitic acid and retinol. It is a retinol ester and considered one of the weaker forms of retinoid.
This is because all retinoids have to be converted to Tretinoin, AKA retinoic acid. Retinyl Palmitate is pretty far down the line and has to go through multiple conversions before its effects are seen.
Due to this long and ineffective conversion line, the benefits of Retinyl Palmitate are debated.
Studies show Retinyl Palmitate to help:
Dermatologists say this ingredient is ineffective because it isn't used in high enough concentrations in cosmetics.
This ingredient used to be found in sunscreens to boost the efficacy of sunscreen filters.
The downfall of Retinyl Palmitate was due to released reports about the ingredient being correlated to sun damage and skin tumors.
While there is a study showing this ingredient to cause DNA damage when exposed to UV-A, there is no concrete proof of it being linked to skin cancer. It is safe to use when used correctly.
All retinoids increase your skin's sensitivity to the sun in the first few months of usage. Be especially careful with reapplying sunscreen when using any form of retinoid.
Currently, this ingredient is still allowed in cosmetics all over the world. In Canada, cosmetics must have a warning label stating the product to contain Retinyl Palmitate
Fun fact: This ingredient is often added to low-fat milk to increase the levels of Vitamin A.
Learn more about Retinyl PalmitateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water