What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingSodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
AntioxidantGlycerin
HumectantSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantCetyl Alcohol
EmollientEthylhexyl Palmitate
EmollientCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientCetearyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingCetyl Palmitate
EmollientSorbitan Palmitate
EmulsifyingSorbitan Oleate
EmulsifyingDiheptyl Succinate
EmollientCapryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer
Skin ConditioningPseudozyma Epicola/Nitrosomonas Europaea/Oil Ferment Filtrate
Skin ConditioningPrunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil
MaskingHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientPrunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Skin ConditioningEnterococcus Faecium/Saururus Chinensis Extract Ferment Filtrate
EmollientAspalathus Linearis Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningGlycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
BleachingRosa Canina Fruit Oil
EmollientCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialOlea Europaea Fruit Oil
MaskingRetinyl Palmitate
Skin ConditioningPanthenol
Skin ConditioningTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingPotassium Sorbate
PreservativePhenoxyethanol
PreservativeEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningParfum
MaskingWater, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Glycerin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Cetyl Alcohol, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Glucoside, Cetyl Palmitate, Sorbitan Palmitate, Sorbitan Oleate, Diheptyl Succinate, Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer, Pseudozyma Epicola/Nitrosomonas Europaea/Oil Ferment Filtrate, Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Enterococcus Faecium/Saururus Chinensis Extract Ferment Filtrate, Aspalathus Linearis Leaf Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Rosa Canina Fruit Oil, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Retinyl Palmitate, Panthenol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Xanthan Gum, Potassium Sorbate, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Parfum
Water
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Glycerides
EmollientSqualane
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantOleyl Erucate
EmollientShea Butter Ethyl Esters
EmollientPropanediol
SolventButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningBetaine
HumectantVaccinium Vitis-Idaea Fruit Juice
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientHydrogenated Olive Oil Lauryl Esters
Emulsion StabilisingSucrose Distearate
EmollientSucrose Stearate
EmollientHippophae Rhamnoides Oil
EmollientVaccinium Vitis-Idaea Fruit Extract
AntioxidantRubus Chamaemorus Seed Oil
Skin ConditioningPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeDipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantAlcohol Denat.
AntimicrobialXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingPalmitic Acid
EmollientHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningSodium Gluconate
Skin ConditioningTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantRetinyl Palmitate
Skin ConditioningBiosaccharide Gum-1
HumectantAdenosine
Skin ConditioningSodium Hydroxide
BufferingGlycine Soja Oil
EmollientRosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialParfum
MaskingCI 77491
Cosmetic ColorantWater, Caprylic/Capric Glycerides, Squalane, Glycerin, Oleyl Erucate, Shea Butter Ethyl Esters, Propanediol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Betaine, Vaccinium Vitis-Idaea Fruit Juice, Cetearyl Alcohol, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Lauryl Esters, Sucrose Distearate, Sucrose Stearate, Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil, Vaccinium Vitis-Idaea Fruit Extract, Rubus Chamaemorus Seed Oil, Phenoxyethanol, Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline, Tocopherol, Alcohol Denat., Xanthan Gum, Palmitic Acid, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Gluconate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Retinyl Palmitate, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Adenosine, Sodium Hydroxide, Glycine Soja Oil, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Parfum, CI 77491
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil is a plant oil derived from the seeds of a sunflower.
It is rich in fatty acids, primarily linoleic acid and oleic acid. This gives it emollient and skin conditioning properties.
The reason this ingredient is so effective is because it forms a thin film on the skin that reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) while supplying linoleic acid to the stratum corneum to improve barrier strength.
The high linoleic acid content is particularly noteworthy for acne-prone skin.
Research suggests that acne-prone skin tends to be deficient in linoleic acid in sebum. Topical application may help replenish this to support a healthier follicular environment and less comedone-promoting sebum.
One randomized study found sunflower seed oil preserved skin barrier integrity in adult volunteers with and without atopic dermatitis (outperforming olive oil).
This ingredient is well-studied, gentle, and an effective emollient suitable for most skin types.
On fungal acne: This ingredient may not be Fungal acne (Malassezia folliculitis) safe. This is because it contains fatty acids with carbon chain lengths in the C11-C24 range.
Learn more about Helianthus Annuus Seed OilParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumPhenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Retinyl palmitate is a form of retinoid. Retinoids are the superstar class of anti-aging ingredients that include tretinoin and retinol.
This particular ingredient has had a bumpy year with its rise and fall in popularity.
First, Retinyl palmitate is created from palmitic acid and retinol. It is a retinol ester and considered one of the weaker forms of retinoid.
This is because all retinoids have to be converted to Tretinoin, AKA retinoic acid. Retinyl Palmitate is pretty far down the line and has to go through multiple conversions before its effects are seen.
Due to this long and ineffective conversion line, the benefits of Retinyl Palmitate are debated.
Studies show Retinyl Palmitate to help:
Dermatologists say this ingredient is ineffective because it isn't used in high enough concentrations in cosmetics.
This ingredient used to be found in sunscreens to boost the efficacy of sunscreen filters.
The downfall of Retinyl Palmitate was due to released reports about the ingredient being correlated to sun damage and skin tumors.
While there is a study showing this ingredient to cause DNA damage when exposed to UV-A, there is no concrete proof of it being linked to skin cancer. It is safe to use when used correctly.
All retinoids increase your skin's sensitivity to the sun in the first few months of usage. Be especially careful with reapplying sunscreen when using any form of retinoid.
Currently, this ingredient is still allowed in cosmetics all over the world. In Canada, cosmetics must have a warning label stating the product to contain Retinyl Palmitate
Fun fact: This ingredient is often added to low-fat milk to increase the levels of Vitamin A.
Learn more about Retinyl PalmitateTocopheryl Acetate is AKA Vitamin E. It is an antioxidant and protects your skin from free radicals. Free radicals damage the skin by breaking down collagen.
One study found using Tocopheryl Acetate with Vitamin C decreased the number of sunburned cells.
Tocopheryl Acetate is commonly found in both skincare and dietary supplements.
Learn more about Tocopheryl AcetateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum