What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantDimethicone
EmollientAlcohol Denat.
AntimicrobialIsononyl Isononanoate
EmollientButylene Glycol
HumectantSorbitol
HumectantAmmonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Emulsion StabilisingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativePentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Soy Protein
HumectantHydroxypropyl Tetrahydropyrantriol
Skin ConditioningPropylene Glycol
HumectantRuscus Aculeatus Root Extract
AstringentGlycine Soja Oil
EmollientCaffeine
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantHydrolyzed Rice Protein
Skin ConditioningBiosaccharide Gum-1
HumectantVitreoscilla Ferment
Skin ConditioningDisodium EDTA
Adenosine
Skin ConditioningAlgae
Skin ConditioningHydroxypalmitoyl Sphinganine
Skin ConditioningCryptomeria Japonica Bud Extract
Skin ConditioningLinalool
PerfumingHomosalate
Skin ConditioningOctocrylene
UV AbsorberEthylhexyl Salicylate
UV AbsorberButyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane
UV AbsorberC12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialDrometrizole Trisiloxane
UV AbsorberEthylenediamine/Stearyl Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer
Skin ConditioningAcrylates/Octylacrylamide Copolymer
Ethylhexyl Triazone
UV AbsorberLimonene
PerfumingBHT
AntioxidantCitronellol
PerfumingCitral
PerfumingBenzyl Alcohol
PerfumingHaematococcus Pluvialis Extract
AntioxidantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingAstaxanthin
Skin ConditioningRosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialParfum
MaskingWater, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Alcohol Denat., Isononyl Isononanoate, Butylene Glycol, Sorbitol, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Phenoxyethanol, Pentylene Glycol, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydroxypropyl Tetrahydropyrantriol, Propylene Glycol, Ruscus Aculeatus Root Extract, Glycine Soja Oil, Caffeine, Tocopherol, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Vitreoscilla Ferment, Disodium EDTA, Adenosine, Algae, Hydroxypalmitoyl Sphinganine, Cryptomeria Japonica Bud Extract, Linalool, Homosalate, Octocrylene, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Drometrizole Trisiloxane, Ethylenediamine/Stearyl Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer, Acrylates/Octylacrylamide Copolymer, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Limonene, BHT, Citronellol, Citral, Benzyl Alcohol, Haematococcus Pluvialis Extract, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Astaxanthin, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Parfum
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantIsohexadecane
EmollientDimethicone
EmollientZea Mays Starch
AbsorbentIsopropyl Isostearate
EmollientPropylene Glycol
HumectantOxidized Starch Acetate
Skin ConditioningOctyldodecanol
EmollientCetyl Alcohol
EmollientBehenyl Alcohol
EmollientHydrolyzed Soy Protein
HumectantMentha Piperita Extract
CleansingAdenosine
Skin ConditioningCapryloyl Salicylic Acid
ExfoliatingSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantTrisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Ascorbyl Glucoside
AntioxidantTocopherol
AntioxidantCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientCetearyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingMyristic Acid
CleansingPalmitic Acid
EmollientPEG-100 Stearate
SurfactantPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningSodium Polyacrylate
AbsorbentSodium Polyacrylate Starch
AbsorbentSodium Stearoyl Glutamate
CleansingStearic Acid
CleansingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingCitral
PerfumingCitronellol
PerfumingCoumarin
PerfumingLimonene
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeParfum
MaskingWater, Glycerin, Isohexadecane, Dimethicone, Zea Mays Starch, Isopropyl Isostearate, Propylene Glycol, Oxidized Starch Acetate, Octyldodecanol, Cetyl Alcohol, Behenyl Alcohol, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Mentha Piperita Extract, Adenosine, Capryloyl Salicylic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Tocopherol, Caprylyl Glycol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Glucoside, Myristic Acid, Palmitic Acid, PEG-100 Stearate, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Polyacrylate, Sodium Polyacrylate Starch, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Stearic Acid, Xanthan Gum, Citral, Citronellol, Coumarin, Limonene, Linalool, Phenoxyethanol, Parfum
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Learn more about AdenosineCitral is the molecule responsible for the fresh lemon scent in lemon, lime, and lemongrass. It is a fragrance ingredient that can be created from plant essential oils or synthetically.
Though Citral has documented antimicrobial activity against acne bacteria (which is where the marketing claims about it being good for acne-prone skin originate), real formulas use it at fragrance-level concentrations under 1% so there's likely no skin benefit.
You should know this ingredient is a known EU fragrance allergen.
Animal studies classifies this ingredient as a weak-to-moderate skin sensitizer and clinical patch testing on eczema patients confirmed it to be both a contact allergen and irritant.
The term 'citral' is a collective term for two geometric isomers: geranial/Citral A and neral/Citral B.
The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.
Learn more about CitralCitronellol is used to add fragrance/parfum to a product. It is often derived from plants such as roses. In fact, it can be found in many essential oils including geranium, lavender, neroli, and more. The scent of Citronellol is often described as "fresh, grassy, and citrus-like".
Since the Citronellol molecule is already unstable, Citronellol becomes irritating on the skin when exposed to air.
Citronellol is a modified terpene. Terpenes are unsaturated hydrocarbons found in plants. They make up the primary part of essential oils.
Citronellol is not able to be absorbed into deeper layers of the skin. It has low permeability,
Citronellol is also a natural insect repellent.
Learn more about CitronellolDimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Learn more about DimethiconeGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHydrolyzed Soy Protein is a water-soluble blend of peptides and amino acids made by breaking down the protein from soybeans into smaller proteins.
It's the most widely used hydrolyzed vegetable protein in cosmetics and it acts mainly as a skin and hair conditioning agent.
The smaller fragments are water-loving so it forms a thin, moisture-retentive film on skin that helps reduce water loss and leaves things feeling softer and smoother.
You'll often see it credited with "firming" or "anti-aging" benefits as well; this claim traces back to lab research like Tokudome et al. (2012). This study added low-molecular-weight soybean peptides to cultured human skin fibroblasts and saw increased type I collagen gene expression + collagen content.
The caveat is that this is in-vitro and oral-peptide research so the only solid, well-established role for the topical ingredient is skin conditioning.
Typical use concentrations go up to 3.5% in mascara but this ingredient is typically used at low levels well under 1%.
It has a reassuring safety profile as well; it's not a skin irritant in testing up to 20% and has limited skin penetration due to its large size and water-loving nature.
Anyone with a known soy allergy should definitely patch test or skip this ingredient. There's also a single case of a soy-containing product aggravating rosacea via protein contact dermatitis, but this is very rare.
Learn more about Hydrolyzed Soy ProteinLimonene is a fragrance that adds scent and taste to a formulation.
It's found in the peel oil of citrus fruits and other plants such as lavender and eucalyptus. The scent of limonene is generally described as "sweet citrus".
Limonene acts as an antioxidant, meaning it helps neutralize free radicals.
When exposed to air, oxidized limonene may sensitize the skin. Because of this, limonene is often avoided by people with sensitive skin.
The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.
Learn more about LimoneneLinalool is a fragrance and helps add scent to products. It's derived from common plants such as cinnamon, mint, citrus, and lavender.
Like Limonene, this ingredient oxidizes when exposed to air. Oxidized linalool can cause allergies and skin sensitivity.
This ingredient has a scent that is floral, spicy tropical, and citrus-like.
Learn more about LinaloolParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumPentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:
Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.
On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.
Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.
Learn more about Pentylene GlycolPhenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Learn more about PhenoxyethanolPropylene Glycol is a synthetic, colorless, odorless liquid that has been a staple in cosmetics for decades. It is a skin conditioning agent, humectant, and solvent.
As a humectant, it draw water to the skin to reduce flaking and restore suppleness. It's also a solvent that helps dissolve other actives and keeps formulas stable across temperature changes.
The CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be nontoxic and clinical studies show no sensitization at cosmetic use concentrations.
True allergic reactions are quite rare: a 15-year retrospective study of 6,751 patients found only 0.31% had a positive reaction (and less than half were considered clinically relevant).
It seemed that when sensitization does occur, it's most commonly linked to topical medication (like corticosteroids) and not cosmetics. Allergic contact dermatitis also appears largely limited to individuals with underlying skin conditions.
Overall, propylene glycol is a well-studied ingredient that most people can tolerate without issue.
Learn more about Propylene GlycolTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water