What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningPropylene Glycol
HumectantSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantCyclopentasiloxane
EmollientIsohexadecane
EmollientGlycereth-26
HumectantTrehalose
HumectantHamamelis Virginiana Extract
AntiseborrhoeicHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingCeramide Ns
Skin ConditioningCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningCeramide Ng
Skin ConditioningCeramide Eos
Skin ConditioningCeramide EOP
Skin ConditioningCeramide As
Skin ConditioningCeramide AP
Skin ConditioningSodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingPolysorbate 60
EmulsifyingC20-22 Alkyl Phosphate
EmulsifyingC20-22 Alcohols
Emulsion StabilisingAllantoin
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantCaprylhydroxamic Acid
Scutellaria Baicalensis Extract
AntimicrobialFucus Vesiculosus Extract
EmollientCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingOpuntia Ficus-Indica Extract
Skin ConditioningCitrus Limon Peel Oil
MaskingCitrus Reticulata Fruit Extract
Skin ProtectingTriethanolamine
BufferingSalicylic Acid
MaskingWater, Propylene Glycol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Cyclopentasiloxane, Isohexadecane, Glycereth-26, Trehalose, Hamamelis Virginiana Extract, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Ceramide Ns, Ceramide NP, Ceramide Ng, Ceramide Eos, Ceramide EOP, Ceramide As, Ceramide AP, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Polysorbate 60, C20-22 Alkyl Phosphate, C20-22 Alcohols, Allantoin, Glycerin, Hydroxyacetophenone, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Scutellaria Baicalensis Extract, Fucus Vesiculosus Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Opuntia Ficus-Indica Extract, Citrus Limon Peel Oil, Citrus Reticulata Fruit Extract, Triethanolamine, Salicylic Acid
Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantButylene Glycol
HumectantWater
Skin Conditioning1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingTriethanolamine
BufferingDiglycerin
HumectantPanthenol
Skin ConditioningPropanediol
SolventPaeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract
Skin ProtectingAllantoin
Skin ConditioningAdenosine
Skin ConditioningTremella Fuciformis Polysaccharide
Emulsion StabilisingGlycyrrhiza Uralensis Root Extract
Skin ConditioningPortulaca Oleracea Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
AntioxidantPaeonia Lactiflora Extract
AstringentChrysanthemum Parthenium Extract
Skin ConditioningCamellia Sinensis Extract
AntioxidantPropylene Glycol
HumectantDianthus Chinensis Extract
HumectantPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningArtemisia Argyi Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningGlucose
HumectantCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantCaprylhydroxamic Acid
Maltodextrin
AbsorbentPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingPEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
EmulsifyingLecithin
EmollientMagnolol
AntioxidantMadecassoside
AntioxidantHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningAsiaticoside
AntioxidantHexylene Glycol
EmulsifyingStearic Acid
CleansingCholesterol
EmollientCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningBisabolol
AntioxidantHouttuynia Cordata Extract
Skin ConditioningCentella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Water, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Triethanolamine, Diglycerin, Panthenol, Propanediol, Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract, Allantoin, Adenosine, Tremella Fuciformis Polysaccharide, Glycyrrhiza Uralensis Root Extract, Portulaca Oleracea Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Paeonia Lactiflora Extract, Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract, Camellia Sinensis Extract, Propylene Glycol, Dianthus Chinensis Extract, Pentylene Glycol, Artemisia Argyi Leaf Extract, Glucose, Centella Asiatica Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Maltodextrin, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Lecithin, Magnolol, Madecassoside, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Ethylhexylglycerin, Asiaticoside, Hexylene Glycol, Stearic Acid, Cholesterol, Ceramide NP, Bisabolol, Houttuynia Cordata Extract
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Allantoin is a soothing ingredient known for its protective and moisturizing properties; it's basically a quiet workhorse ingredient you can find in a huge range of cosmetics.
Though it can be derived from the comfrey plant, allantoin is produced synthetically for cosmetic products to ensure purity.
Research shows it can encourage your skin cells to turn over and renew by stimulating keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation.
It also has mild keratolytic properties to help loosen and shed dead skin cells without being harsh.
Studies also suggest allantoin can help calm inflammation by dialing down some of the chemical signals your skin sends out when it is irritated.
This ingredient is typically used in the 0.1-0.5% range, and the FDA recognizes it as a skin protectant in OTC products up to 2%.
Overall, allantoin is a wonderful addition to most routines; it is stable across a wide pH range (~4-8), works well with other ingredients, and is considered non-sensitizing/non-irritating.
Fun fact: Allantoin is naturally occurring in comfrey root, beets, chamomile, and wheat sprouts. Our bodies even produce it as a byproduct of uric acid metabolism.
Learn more about AllantoinCaprylhydroxamic Acid is a chelating agent that helps cosmetics stay fresh, stable, and consistent over time.
Chelating agents help prevent metal ions from binding to other ingredients. This helps prevent unwanted reactions and effects from using the product. It also helps prevent the growth of unwanted microbes in products that contain water.
Caprylhydroxamic Acid is often used with natural antimicrobial products as an alternative to preservatives.
Learn more about Caprylhydroxamic AcidCentella Asiatica Extract (Centella) is one of the most researched botanical extracts in skincare with decades of studies backing its effects on inflammation, collagen, and the skin barrier.
That research keeps pointing back to the same four triterpenoid saponins: Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, Asiatic Acid, and Madecassic Acid.
These compounds allow centella to dial back inflammation, encourage the skin to build and hold onto collagen, support the barrier and hydration, and bring solid antioxidant activity to protect against signs of aging.
Centella also carries a nice supporting cast of Vitamin A, vitamin C, several B vitamins, and amino acids. Put it all together and you get an ingredient that soothes, hydrates, and protects, all at once.
Most of centella's magic comes from the four big compounds (Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, Asiatic Acid, and Madecassic Acid). These are the actives doing the heavy lifting in almost every centella study.
Here is the short version of what they do in the skin:
So it is not just soothing for the sake of soothing. Centella calms the skin AND helps it rebuild.
Just FYI, not all centella on an ingredient list is the same. What you are getting actually depends on the extract:
Fun fact on the ratios: the leaves tend to be richest in Madecassoside and Asiaticoside, and lower in the two acids. The exact amounts shift with where the plant is grown and how it is processed. This means purity really does vary brand to brand.
Centella is one of the most easygoing actives out there.
It layers well with basically everything: niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, peptides, and vitamin C, and also pairs nicely with stronger actives like retinoids and exfoliating acids where it can help take the edge off irritation.
On the safety side, centella and its triterpenes are classified as weak sensitizers, meaning allergic reactions are possible but uncommon.
Patch tests at 1% and 5% came back negative in test panels, and creams at typical use levels did not cause allergic reactions across large groups of people.
But as with any new active, a patch test is still a smart move for very reactive skin.
Centella is widely used because it is effective at low percentages. For context, human safety testing found no meaningful irritation from creams containing centella extract at everyday use levels (the tested amounts were well under 1%).
The irritancy threshold in animal testing was also above 30% (so real-world formulas sit far below anything concerning).
In collagen lab studies, higher concentrations drove more collagen synthesis, so serums built around centella tend to feature it more prominently.
Bottom line: you will find centella working nicely anywhere from a fraction of a percent up to hero-ingredient levels depending on whether it is a supporting soother or the main event.
Fun fact: Centella has been used as a medicine and in food for many centuries. As a medicine, it is used to treat burns, scratches, and wounds.
Learn more about Centella Asiatica ExtractCeramide NP (formerly known as Ceramide 3) is one of the skin's naturally occurring lipids.
Since ceramides are the major lipid components of the skin, they are crucial for maintaining skin barrier and hydration. Ceramide NP most closely mirrors the dominant kind in human skin amongst ceramide subtypes.
This ceramide works by slotting into gaps within the stratum corneum's lipid matrix to limit trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and shield the skin against external irritants.
A study with 312 patients found that using a ceramide-containing routine for 4 weeks reduced the severity of atopic dermatitis by over 61%.
Another clinical study in subjects aged 60 and older found that a ceramide body wash and moisturizer improved skin dryness and itchy skin in 15 days.
Overall, ceramides are considered non-irritating and safety tests have found little to no observable adverse effects from using this ingredient.
Ceramide NP is usually sourced from plants (like soybean or rice bran), or produced synthetically.
Learn more about Ceramide NPGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHydroxyacetophenone is a small phenolic molecule that earns its place in a formulas as an antioxidant and preservative booster.
As a phenol, it is able to neutralize free radicals to protect both the product and the skin from oxidative stress.
Though it can't kill microbes on its own, it works as a good supporting agent when combined with other preservatives like Phenoxyethanol or 1,2-Hexanediol.
This ingredient naturally occurs as piceol in Norwegian spruce needles (~0.4-1.1% dry weight and in cloudberries). Though the cosmetic-grade material is synthesized for purity and consistency.
You'll usually see it used at low levels and suppliers recommend up to 1% added to a water phase.
Safety testing was done at concentrations like 0.05% in SPF products and 0.5% in a Human Repeated Insult Patch Test. The safety evidence is assuring; this ingredient is safe for cosmetics in current use and also holds safety status as a food flavoring as well.
An honest caveat: the "soothing" and "anti-inflammatory" claims come mostly from supplier marketing rather than published clinical trials. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review's own literature search found no useful efficacy studies on this ingredient.
So the antioxidant and preservative-boosting roles are the well supported ones while the calming benefit is plausible but thinly evidenced.
Overall, this is a well-tolerated, low-irritation multitasker that quietly helps a formula stay fresh and stable.
Learn more about HydroxyacetophenonePropylene Glycol is a synthetic, colorless, odorless liquid that has been a staple in cosmetics for decades. It is a skin conditioning agent, humectant, and solvent.
As a humectant, it draw water to the skin to reduce flaking and restore suppleness. It's also a solvent that helps dissolve other actives and keeps formulas stable across temperature changes.
The CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be nontoxic and clinical studies show no sensitization at cosmetic use concentrations.
True allergic reactions are quite rare: a 15-year retrospective study of 6,751 patients found only 0.31% had a positive reaction (and less than half were considered clinically relevant).
It seemed that when sensitization does occur, it's most commonly linked to topical medication (like corticosteroids) and not cosmetics. Allergic contact dermatitis also appears largely limited to individuals with underlying skin conditions.
Overall, propylene glycol is a well-studied ingredient that most people can tolerate without issue.
Learn more about Propylene GlycolSodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium HyaluronateTriethanolamine (TEA) is an emulsifier and pH adjuster. It is created using ethylene oxide and ammonia. This gives Triethanolamine a nitrogen core and a similar scent to ammonia.
As an emulsifier, it prevents ingredients from separating and enhances texture by adding volume to a product.
PH adjusters are common in cosmetic products. The pH of a product can affect the effectiveness of other ingredients. A product with a high pH may also irritate the skin.
If you are looking for the tea leaf ingredient, click here.
Learn more about TriethanolamineWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water