What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Glycerin
Humectant
Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter
Skin Conditioning
Squalane
Emollient
Cetearyl Alcohol
Emollient
Behenyl Alcohol
Emollient
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin Conditioning
Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil
Masking
Sorbitan Olivate
Emulsifying
Cetyl Alcohol
Emollient
Coco-Glucoside
Cleansing
Algae Extract
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
Emollient
PEG-100 Stearate
Surfactant
Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil
Masking
Solanum Lycopersicum Fruit/Leaf/Stem Extract
AstringentSolanum Tuberosum Pulp Extract
SmoothingRubus Idaeus Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningCurcuma Longa Root Extract
Masking
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Humectant
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningSigesbeckia Orientalis Extract
Skin ConditioningGlycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Bleaching
Asparagopsis Armata Extract
Skin ProtectingAscophyllum Nodosum Extract
Skin ConditioningHordeum Vulgare Extract
EmollientCucumis Sativus Fruit Extract
Emollient
Molasses Extract
Skin ConditioningOlea Europaea Fruit Oil
Masking
Hydrogenated Olive Oil
Skin Conditioning
Olea Europaea Oil Unsaponifiables
Skin Conditioning
Caffeine
Skin Conditioning
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Antioxidant
Helianthus Annuus Seedcake
Abrasive
Elaeis Guineensis Oil
Emollient
Chlorella Vulgaris Extract
Skin ConditioningNarcissus Tazetta Bulb Extract
Astringent
Salicornia Herbacea Extract
Skin ConditioningAlpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide
Cleansing
Hydrolyzed Algin
Tocopherol
Antioxidant
Sorbitol
Humectant
Maris Sal
Skin ConditioningDimethicone
Emollient
Cetyl Esters
Emollient
Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate
Antioxidant
Lauroyl Lysine
Skin Conditioning
Salicylic Acid
Masking
Caprylyl Glycol
Emollient
Xanthan Gum
EmulsifyingSodium Hyaluronate
Humectant
Glucosamine Hcl
Citric Acid
Buffering
Sodium Citrate
BufferingPhenoxyethanol
Preservative
Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter, Squalane, Cetearyl Alcohol, Behenyl Alcohol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Sorbitan Olivate, Cetyl Alcohol, Coco-Glucoside, Algae Extract, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil, Solanum Lycopersicum Fruit/Leaf/Stem Extract, Solanum Tuberosum Pulp Extract, Rubus Idaeus Leaf Extract, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Seed Extract, Sigesbeckia Orientalis Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Asparagopsis Armata Extract, Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract, Hordeum Vulgare Extract, Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract, Molasses Extract, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Hydrogenated Olive Oil, Olea Europaea Oil Unsaponifiables, Caffeine, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Helianthus Annuus Seedcake, Elaeis Guineensis Oil, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Narcissus Tazetta Bulb Extract, Salicornia Herbacea Extract, Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide, Hydrolyzed Algin, Tocopherol, Sorbitol, Maris Sal, Dimethicone, Cetyl Esters, Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate, Lauroyl Lysine, Salicylic Acid, Caprylyl Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Hyaluronate, Glucosamine Hcl, Citric Acid, Sodium Citrate, Phenoxyethanol
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
Humectant
Calcium Chloride
AstringentCeratonia Siliqua Gum
EmollientXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingNiacinamide
Smoothing
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin Conditioning
Chondrus Crispus Powder
Abrasive
Caffeine
Skin Conditioning
Acacia Seyal Gum Extract
HumectantCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Antimicrobial
Camellia Japonica Flower Extract
EmollientRetinol
Skin Conditioning
Ceramide NP
Skin Conditioning
Sodium Hyaluronate
Humectant
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Humectant
Adenosine
Skin Conditioning
1,2-Hexanediol
Skin Conditioning
Pentylene Glycol
Skin Conditioning
Hydroxyacetophenone
Antioxidant
Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Skin Conditioning
Ethylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningCellulose Gum
Emulsion StabilisingSodium Phytate
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Emulsifying
Synthetic Fluorphlogopite
Phenoxyethanol
Preservative
CI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77288
Cosmetic ColorantWater, Glycerin, Calcium Chloride, Ceratonia Siliqua Gum, Xanthan Gum, Niacinamide, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Chondrus Crispus Powder, Caffeine, Acacia Seyal Gum Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Camellia Japonica Flower Extract, Retinol, Ceramide NP, Sodium Hyaluronate, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Adenosine, 1,2-Hexanediol, Pentylene Glycol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Cellulose Gum, Sodium Phytate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Phenoxyethanol, CI 77891, CI 77288
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (also known as Argireline) is a synthetic hexapeptide that is often called a "topical Botox alternative".
It works by mimicking how Botox relaxes muscles; it interferes with the signaling process that tells your facial muscles to contract. This can help soften expression lines like forehead wrinkles or crow's feet over time.
The comparison to Botox does have limits because the molecule is water-loving and relatively large.
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 has a hard time absorbing deeply enough through the skin's outer barrier to actually reach the muscles.
So whether it truly works the way Botox does at a biological level is still up for debate, but early clinical outcomes are fairly encouraging.
A 12 week human study of a multi-ingredient regimen containing this ingredient saw:
While some studies have observed improvements in wrinkle appearance, it is important to note that more consistent results are seen in multi-ingredient formulations (vs just Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 alone).
Some research studies also used higher concentrations (up to 10%) while this ingredient is usually found in concentrations up to 0.005% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about Acetyl Hexapeptide-8This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Learn more about Butyrospermum Parkii ButterCaffeine is a naturally occurring plant compound found in coffee beans, tea leaves, cocoa pods, and guarana.
As an antioxidant, caffeine protects your skin from free radical damage caused by UV exposure and envionrmnetal stressors.
Early research also shows that caffeine can help calm redness, soothe irritated skin, and support hair growth by stimulating microcirculation in the scalp.
You might have seen eye creams marketing caffeine as a depuffing ingredient. This is because it is a vasoconstrictor meaning it can temporarily constrict blood vessels, though clinical evidence for this specific use is still limited.
Most skincare products contain this ingredient at concentrations between 1-6%. It is able to penetrate skin easily regardless of skin type or thickness.
Just so you know, a very small number of case reports describe caffeine-induced allergy. This ingredient is generally well-tolerated, non-irritating, and non-sensitizing for the majority of people.
Learn more about CaffeineCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinPhenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium HyaluronateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum
