What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningDecyl Cocoate
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantSqualane
EmollientCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientSalix Nigra Bark Extract
Skin ProtectingPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningDipotassium Glycyrrhizate
HumectantC10-18 Triglycerides
EmollientJojoba Esters
EmollientButylene Glycol
HumectantPropanediol
SolventSodium Levulinate
Skin ConditioningCaffeine
Skin ConditioningGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantHelichrysum Angustifolium Flower Extract
MaskingZerumbone
Skin ConditioningGleditsia Triacanthos Seed Extract
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder
Skin ConditioningXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingSclerotium Gum
Emulsion StabilisingHelianthus Annuus Seed Wax
Skin ConditioningCetyl Palmitate
EmollientSorbitan Palmitate
EmulsifyingSodium Stearoyl Glutamate
CleansingSodium Gluconate
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantPolyglycerin-3
HumectantCitric Acid
BufferingGlyceryl Caprylate
EmollientSodium Anisate
AntimicrobialLevulinic Acid
PerfumingSorbitan Oleate
EmulsifyingHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientWater, Decyl Cocoate, Glycerin, Squalane, Cetearyl Alcohol, Salix Nigra Bark Extract, Pentylene Glycol, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, C10-18 Triglycerides, Jojoba Esters, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Sodium Levulinate, Caffeine, Glyceryl Stearate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Helichrysum Angustifolium Flower Extract, Zerumbone, Gleditsia Triacanthos Seed Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder, Xanthan Gum, Sclerotium Gum, Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax, Cetyl Palmitate, Sorbitan Palmitate, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Sodium Gluconate, Tocopherol, Polyglycerin-3, Citric Acid, Glyceryl Caprylate, Sodium Anisate, Levulinic Acid, Sorbitan Oleate, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantPropanediol
SolventDimethicone
EmollientDicaprylyl Carbonate
EmollientCaffeine
Skin ConditioningButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningMaltodextrin
AbsorbentCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingBehenyl Alcohol
EmollientOlus Oil
EmollientDipentaerythrityl Hexacaprylate/Hexacaprate
EmulsifyingTridecyl Trimellitate
EmollientCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientDipotassium Glycyrrhizate
HumectantSodium Polyacrylate
AbsorbentCandelilla Cera
EmollientUndaria Pinnatifida Extract
Skin ConditioningCetyl Alcohol
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientPhenylpropanol
MaskingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate
Emulsion StabilisingTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantPEG-75 Stearate
SurfactantCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientTridecyl Stearate
EmollientHydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingSodium Hydroxide
BufferingNeopentyl Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate
EmollientCeteth-20
CleansingSteareth-20
CleansingMelatonin
AntioxidantParfum
MaskingCaesalpinia Spinosa Fruit Extract
Skin ProtectingCorallina Officinalis Extract
Skin ConditioningDisodium EDTA
PEG-8
HumectantKappaphycus Alvarezii Extract
Skin ConditioningPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeTocopherol
AntioxidantSodium Benzoate
MaskingOryza Sativa Extract
AbsorbentAscorbyl Palmitate
AntioxidantCitric Acid
BufferingAscorbic Acid
AntioxidantWater, Glycerin, Propanediol, Dimethicone, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Caffeine, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Maltodextrin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Behenyl Alcohol, Olus Oil, Dipentaerythrityl Hexacaprylate/Hexacaprate, Tridecyl Trimellitate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Sodium Polyacrylate, Candelilla Cera, Undaria Pinnatifida Extract, Cetyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Phenylpropanol, Xanthan Gum, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate, Tocopheryl Acetate, PEG-75 Stearate, Caprylyl Glycol, Tridecyl Stearate, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Sodium Hydroxide, Neopentyl Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Ceteth-20, Steareth-20, Melatonin, Parfum, Caesalpinia Spinosa Fruit Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Disodium EDTA, PEG-8, Kappaphycus Alvarezii Extract, Potassium Sorbate, Tocopherol, Sodium Benzoate, Oryza Sativa Extract, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Citric Acid, Ascorbic Acid
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caffeine is a naturally occurring plant compound found in coffee beans, tea leaves, cocoa pods, and guarana.
As an antioxidant, caffeine protects your skin from free radical damage caused by UV exposure and envionrmnetal stressors.
Early research also shows that caffeine can help calm redness, soothe irritated skin, and support hair growth by stimulating microcirculation in the scalp.
You might have seen eye creams marketing caffeine as a depuffing ingredient. This is because it is a vasoconstrictor meaning it can temporarily constrict blood vessels, though clinical evidence for this specific use is still limited.
Most skincare products contain this ingredient at concentrations between 1-6%. It is able to penetrate skin easily regardless of skin type or thickness.
Just so you know, a very small number of case reports describe caffeine-induced allergy. This ingredient is generally well-tolerated, non-irritating, and non-sensitizing for the majority of people.
Learn more about CaffeineCetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholCitric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Learn more about Citric AcidDipotassium Glycyrrhizate comes from licorice root.
Extracts of licorice have demonstrated to have antibacterial, anti‐inflammatory, antiviral, antioxidant properties.
One component, glabridin, has extra potent antioxidant and soothing properties. It has also been found to block pigmentation from UVB rays in guinea pigs.
Licorice Root also contains a flavonoid. Flavonoids are a natural substance from in plants. Flavonoids also have antioxidant properties.
Another component, glycyrrhizin, has been found to have anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial benefits. This may make licorice root extract effective at treating acne. However, more research is needed to support this.
Liquiritin is one of the flavone compounds found in licorice. It has been found to help lighten skin by preventing tyrosinase from reacting with tyrosine. When the two react, protein is converted to melanin. Melanin is the substance in your body that gives your features pigmentation.
Licorice root is native to Southern Europe and Asia. It has been used in traditional Chinese medicine to help with respiratory issues.
Learn more about Dipotassium GlycyrrhizateGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearatePropanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Learn more about PropanediolTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum