Allies of Skin Peptide & Antioxidants Firming Daily Treatment Versus SkinMedica Ultra Sheer Moisturizer
This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate to soften the look of wrinkles and calm redness.
This calming moisturizer is formulated around Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate and Panthenol to calm redness and hydrate skin.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingIsononyl Isononanoate
EmollientCaffeine
Skin ConditioningC12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialNiacinamide
SmoothingLactobacillus Ferment
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Olivate
Butylene Glycol
HumectantPolysorbate 60
EmulsifyingTetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
AntioxidantMarrubium Vulgare Extract
Skin ConditioningPlantago Lanceolata Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialPalmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Skin ConditioningAcetyl Tetrapeptide-40
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tripeptide-8
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Verbascum Thapsus Flower
AntioxidantMoringa Oleifera Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningTeprenone
Skin ConditioningPhospholipids
Skin ConditioningHyaluronic Acid
HumectantSyringa Vulgaris Leaf Cell Culture Extract
Skin ConditioningSphingolipids
EmollientAstaxanthin
Skin ConditioningBisabolol
AntioxidantEuterpe Oleracea Fruit Oil
Skin ConditioningRubus Idaeus Seed Oil
EmollientHoney
HumectantDimethyl Isosorbide
SolventCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningPhenyl T-Butylnitrone
AntioxidantTocopherol
AntioxidantGlutathione
Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane
AntioxidantTetrahydrodemethoxydiferuloylmethane
AntioxidantTetrahydrobisdemethoxydiferuloylmethane
AntioxidantErgothioneine
AntioxidantXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingSorbitan Olivate
EmulsifyingBenzimidazole Diamond Amidoethyl Urea Carbamoyl Propyl Polymethylsilsesquioxane
Cosmetic ColorantMica
Cosmetic ColorantDextran
Citric Acid
BufferingSodium Hydroxide
BufferingAcrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningIsohexadecane
EmollientMaltodextrin
AbsorbentPolysorbate 80
EmulsifyingAcetyl Tributyl Citrate
MaskingTetrasodium EDTA
Sorbitan Oleate
EmulsifyingSodium Benzoate
MaskingPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeSodium Glycolate
BufferingPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeO-Cymen-5-Ol
AntimicrobialWater, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Isononyl Isononanoate, Caffeine, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Niacinamide, Lactobacillus Ferment, Cetearyl Olivate, Butylene Glycol, Polysorbate 60, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Marrubium Vulgare Extract, Plantago Lanceolata Leaf Extract, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-40, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8, Hydrolyzed Verbascum Thapsus Flower, Moringa Oleifera Seed Extract, Teprenone, Phospholipids, Hyaluronic Acid, Syringa Vulgaris Leaf Cell Culture Extract, Sphingolipids, Astaxanthin, Bisabolol, Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Oil, Rubus Idaeus Seed Oil, Honey, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Ceramide NP, Phenyl T-Butylnitrone, Tocopherol, Glutathione, Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane, Tetrahydrodemethoxydiferuloylmethane, Tetrahydrobisdemethoxydiferuloylmethane, Ergothioneine, Xanthan Gum, Caprylyl Glycol, Carbomer, Sorbitan Olivate, Benzimidazole Diamond Amidoethyl Urea Carbamoyl Propyl Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Mica, Dextran, Citric Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, CI 77891, Ethylhexylglycerin, Isohexadecane, Maltodextrin, Polysorbate 80, Acetyl Tributyl Citrate, Tetrasodium EDTA, Sorbitan Oleate, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Glycolate, Polysorbate 20, Phenoxyethanol, O-Cymen-5-Ol
Water
Skin ConditioningCetyl Ethylhexanoate
EmollientSorbitan Stearate
EmulsifyingMethyl Gluceth-20
HumectantPolysorbate 60
EmulsifyingDimethicone
EmollientTocopherol
AntioxidantTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantTetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
AntioxidantPanthenol
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientCeteareth-20
CleansingAminomethyl Propanol
BufferingCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingDisodium EDTA
Phenoxyethanol
PreservativeEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeWater, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Sorbitan Stearate, Methyl Gluceth-20, Polysorbate 60, Dimethicone, Tocopherol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Panthenol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Ceteareth-20, Aminomethyl Propanol, Carbomer, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Potassium Sorbate
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.
Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.
It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.
Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.
A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.
Learn more about CarbomerEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinPhenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Learn more about PhenoxyethanolPolysorbate 60 is used to help stabilize products. It is a surfactant and emulsifier. These properties help keep ingredients together in a product. Surfactants help reduce surface tension between ingredients with different states, such as liquids and solids. Emulsifiers help prevent oils and waters from separating.
Polysorbate 60 is sorbitol-based and created from the ethoxylation of sorbitan. Ethoxylation is a chemical reaction used to add ethylene oxide. Sorbitan is a the dehydrated version of sorbitol, a sugar found in fruits.
In this case, the 60 comes from reacting 60 units of ethylene oxide with sorbitan.
Polysorbates are commonly used in medicine and foods.
Learn more about Polysorbate 60Potassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.
This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.
Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.
You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.
Learn more about Potassium SorbateTetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (THD) is a stable and oil-soluble form of Vitamin C.
THD is special in that it has the ability to travel deeper into skin than traditional ascorbic acid while maintaining the same skin benefits (double win!).
Because it’s oil-soluble, THD dives deep into your skin’s fatty layers (think ceramides and cholesterol) to fight off the kind of free radicals that mess with your skin barrier. This makes it a great pair with water-based vitamin C (ascorbic acid) that mainly works on the surface.
Even at just 0.1%, THD is already showing great antioxidant activity. When used up to 2%, it helps keep your skin happy and calm, especially when it’s stressed from pollution or sun.
Want to fade dark spots or tackle hyperpigmentation? You’ll want 5% or more. Pairing it with brightening buddies like niacinamide or licorice root gives even better results. One study even used 30% THD with other brighteners and saw real results on stubborn discoloration, even in melasma-prone skin.
A note on THD: It’s has a slightly silky, oily texture and usually shows up colorless or pale yellow (though the exact shade can vary by supplier).
While you can sneak it into water-based formulas, it really shines when paired with silicones or oils, which help your skin soak it up better.
THD is pretty stable, but it’s still vulnerable to degradation like ascorbic acid. Too much light or heat (above 113°F / 45°C) can break it down over time. Go for dark and opaque packaging that keeps it safe and shady!
Read more about other types of Vitamin C:
Learn more about Tetrahexyldecyl AscorbateTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water