What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantGlycerin
HumectantPropanediol
SolventPentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate
EmollientHydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin)
Emollient1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningPhenyl Trimethicone
Skin ConditioningBis-Hydroxyethoxypropyl Dimethicone
EmollientSynthetic Wax
AbrasiveC14-22 Alcohols
Emulsion StabilisingSqualane
EmollientCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientHydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate
Xanthan Gum
EmulsifyingGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingC12-20 Alkyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingAcetyl Glucosamine
Skin ConditioningStearic Acid
CleansingGlyceryl Stearate Citrate
EmollientHydrogenated Vegetable Oil
EmollientGlyceryl Caprylate
EmollientTromethamine
BufferingPanthenol
Skin ConditioningPolyglyceryl-10 Stearate
Skin ConditioningPalmitic Acid
EmollientEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningDisodium EDTA
Gluconolactone
Skin ConditioningPolyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
EmulsifyingCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingThymol Trimethoxycinnamate
AntioxidantCholesterol
EmollientCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningGlucose
HumectantOenothera Biennis Oil
EmollientHydroxypropyl Bispalmitamide Mea
EmollientMannitol
HumectantMyristic Acid
CleansingLauric Acid
CleansingTocopherol
AntioxidantCopernicia Cerifera Wax Extract
Acrylates/Ammonium Methacrylate Copolymer
Silica
AbrasiveArachidic Acid
CleansingCaesalpinia Sappan Stem Powder
ExfoliatingOleic Acid
EmollientWater, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Propanediol, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin), 1,2-Hexanediol, Phenyl Trimethicone, Bis-Hydroxyethoxypropyl Dimethicone, Synthetic Wax, C14-22 Alcohols, Squalane, Cetearyl Alcohol, Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate, Xanthan Gum, Glyceryl Stearate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside, Acetyl Glucosamine, Stearic Acid, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Glyceryl Caprylate, Tromethamine, Panthenol, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, Palmitic Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Disodium EDTA, Gluconolactone, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Carbomer, Thymol Trimethoxycinnamate, Cholesterol, Ceramide NP, Glucose, Oenothera Biennis Oil, Hydroxypropyl Bispalmitamide Mea, Mannitol, Myristic Acid, Lauric Acid, Tocopherol, Copernicia Cerifera Wax Extract, Acrylates/Ammonium Methacrylate Copolymer, Silica, Arachidic Acid, Caesalpinia Sappan Stem Powder, Oleic Acid
Water
Skin ConditioningGluconolactone
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantIsopropyl Myristate
EmollientCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientPotassium Hydroxide
BufferingAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Salicylic Acid
MaskingDimethicone
EmollientC12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialIsohexadecane
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientPhenoxyethanol
PreservativePEG-100 Stearate
Ceteth-10 Phosphate
CleansingDicetyl Phosphate
EmulsifyingParfum
MaskingChlorphenesin
AntimicrobialXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingDisodium EDTA
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder
Skin ConditioningTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantGlyceryl Glucoside
Humectant1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningAlanine
MaskingArginine
MaskingAspartic Acid
MaskingButylene Glycol
HumectantCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientChondrus Crispus Extract
Skin ConditioningCysteine
AntioxidantGlucose
HumectantGlutamic Acid
HumectantGlycine
BufferingHistidine
HumectantHyaluronic Acid
HumectantHydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
HumectantHydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Skin ConditioningHydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate
Isoleucine
Skin ConditioningLeucine
Skin ConditioningLysine
Skin ConditioningMethionine
Skin ConditioningPhenylalanine
MaskingPotassium Hyaluronate
Skin ConditioningProline
Skin ConditioningSerine
MaskingSodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
HumectantSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantSodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
HumectantThreonine
Tyrosine
MaskingValine
MaskingWater, Gluconolactone, Glycerin, Isopropyl Myristate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Potassium Hydroxide, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Salicylic Acid, Dimethicone, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Isohexadecane, Glyceryl Stearate, Phenoxyethanol, PEG-100 Stearate, Ceteth-10 Phosphate, Dicetyl Phosphate, Parfum, Chlorphenesin, Xanthan Gum, Disodium EDTA, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder, Tocopheryl Acetate, Glyceryl Glucoside, 1,2-Hexanediol, Alanine, Arginine, Aspartic Acid, Butylene Glycol, Caprylyl Glycol, Chondrus Crispus Extract, Cysteine, Glucose, Glutamic Acid, Glycine, Histidine, Hyaluronic Acid, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Isoleucine, Leucine, Lysine, Methionine, Phenylalanine, Potassium Hyaluronate, Proline, Serine, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Threonine, Tyrosine, Valine
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolCetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAGluconolactone is a PHA. PHAs are a great gentle alternative to traditional AHAs.
When applied, Gluconolactone has the same affect on skin as AHAs such as lactic acid. It helps dissolve the dead skin cells in the top layer of your skin. This improves texture and brightens the skin.
PHAs are more gentle than AHAs due to their larger structure. They do not penetrate as deeply as AHAs and take a longer time to dissolve dead cells. Studies show PHAs do not cause as much irritation.
Gluconolactone has some interesting properties:
In a 2004 study, Gluconolactone was found to prevent UV damage in mouse skin cells and has not been found to increase sun sensitivity. However, we still recommend wearing SPF daily.
This ingredient is is an created by reacting gluconic acid with an alcohol.
Learn more about GluconolactoneGlucose is a simple sugar (a monosaccharide). In skincare, it is mostly a humectant and skin conditioning agent.
Mechanistically, it has multiple hydroxyl groups that hydrogen-bond to water. This pulls moisture into the upper layers of skin to keep the surface soft and hydrated.
It's worth knowing sugars are already a natural component of the skin's NMF (natural moisturizing factor) so it's a molecule that your stratum corneum is well-acquainted with.
Just so you know, glucose is hydrophilic (water-loving) and the stratum corneum is a strong barrier to hydrophilic compounds. This just means penetration is slow and most of the action is happening on the surface.
Gram-to-gram, glucose is not as efficient as a humectant as glycerin. This is why you'll likely see glycose paired with stronger humectants for a bigger hydration payoff.
In skincare, glucose is typically derived from corn or other starch sources.
Learn more about GlucoseGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum