What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantButylene Glycol
HumectantNiacinamide
SmoothingGlycereth-26
HumectantJasminum Sambac Flower Water
PerfumingHydrogenated Castor Oil
EmollientBellis Perennis Extract
Skin ConditioningHydroxyacetophenone
Antioxidant1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningPEG/PPG-17/6 Copolymer
SolventMethylpropanediol
SolventHydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingAllantoin
Skin ConditioningGlyceryl Glucoside
HumectantRosa Gallica Flower Oil
EmollientPropylene Glycol
HumectantCI 19140
Cosmetic ColorantSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantStephania Tetrandra Root Extract
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingAnthemis Nobilis Flower Extract
MaskingHyaluronic Acid
HumectantErgothioneine
AntioxidantHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingHexylene Glycol
EmulsifyingStearic Acid
CleansingCholesterol
EmollientPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeMannitol
HumectantCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientHydrolyzed Collagen
EmollientHydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate
Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
HumectantCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingPropanediol
SolventOligopeptide-1
Skin ConditioningHexapeptide-9
Skin Conditioning3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin ConditioningAscorbic Acid
AntioxidantMagnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate
AntioxidantHydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
HumectantTagetes Erecta Flower Extract
PerfumingEDTA
Artemisia Argyi Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningCaprylhydroxamic Acid
Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Glycereth-26, Jasminum Sambac Flower Water, Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Bellis Perennis Extract, Hydroxyacetophenone, 1,2-Hexanediol, PEG/PPG-17/6 Copolymer, Methylpropanediol, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Allantoin, Glyceryl Glucoside, Rosa Gallica Flower Oil, Propylene Glycol, CI 19140, Sodium Hyaluronate, Stephania Tetrandra Root Extract, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract, Hyaluronic Acid, Ergothioneine, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Hexylene Glycol, Stearic Acid, Cholesterol, Phenoxyethanol, Mannitol, Ceramide NP, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Centella Asiatica Extract, Propanediol, Oligopeptide-1, Hexapeptide-9, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Ascorbic Acid, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Tagetes Erecta Flower Extract, EDTA, Artemisia Argyi Leaf Extract, Caprylhydroxamic Acid
Water
Skin ConditioningAscorbic Acid
AntioxidantButylene Glycol
HumectantGlycerin
HumectantTranexamic Acid
AstringentBetaine
HumectantPEG/PPG-17/6 Copolymer
Solvent1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantBis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane
EmollientAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingTocopherol
AntioxidantCitrus Reticulata Fruit Extract
Skin ProtectingHydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Skin Conditioning3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin ConditioningAminomethyl Propanol
BufferingAlgin
MaskingPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantErgothioneine
AntioxidantFerulic Acid
AntimicrobialSodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
HumectantSodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
HumectantCitrus Reticulata Peel Extract
Skin ConditioningNonapeptide-1
Skin ConditioningHexapeptide-2
BleachingHexapeptide-9
Skin ConditioningOligopeptide-1
Skin ConditioningLaminaria Digitata Extract
Skin ProtectingCeramide AP
Skin ConditioningCeramide As
Skin ConditioningCeramide Ns
Skin ConditioningCeramide EOP
Skin ConditioningCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningCetyl-Pg Hydroxyethyl Palmitamide
Skin ConditioningHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingCholesterol
EmollientAllantoin
Skin ConditioningPPG-26-Buteth-26
Skin ConditioningPEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
EmulsifyingPvm/Ma Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingGlyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer
HumectantPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningWater, Ascorbic Acid, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Tranexamic Acid, Betaine, PEG/PPG-17/6 Copolymer, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Tocopherol, Citrus Reticulata Fruit Extract, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Aminomethyl Propanol, Algin, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Ergothioneine, Ferulic Acid, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Citrus Reticulata Peel Extract, Nonapeptide-1, Hexapeptide-2, Hexapeptide-9, Oligopeptide-1, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Ceramide AP, Ceramide As, Ceramide Ns, Ceramide EOP, Ceramide NP, Cetyl-Pg Hydroxyethyl Palmitamide, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Cholesterol, Allantoin, PPG-26-Buteth-26, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Pvm/Ma Copolymer, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Polysorbate 20, Ethylhexylglycerin
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.Â
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservativesÂ
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is one of the most popular "stable" vitamin C derivatives in skincare.
Plain ascorbic acid is fantastic but notoriously fragile; it browns, oxidizes, and loses potency fast. So attaching an ethyl group to the third carbon of the molecule gives it some cool perks:
In a formula, it does the 3 classic vitamin C jobs: it acts as an antioxidant, helps brighten skin tone by inhibiting tyrosinase, and supports collagen.
The evidence is reasonably solid for a cosmetic ingredient; Liao and colleagues (2018) showed it's significantly more stable than ascorbic acid while still being effective.
A 2021 study by Zerbinati and colleagues tested a serum with 30% 3-O-ethyl-l-ascorbic acid and 1% lactic acid significantly increased collagen production, reduced UVB-induced DNA damage, and decreased melanin on a reconstructed pigmented skin model.
Typical real world usage sits around 0.5-5% (and 1-2% is common for daily serums).
Amounts up to 30% have been shown to be non-irritating on human skin samples, but two isolated cases reported allergic contact dermatitis so a patch test is sensible if you have reactive skin.
Learn more about 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic AcidAllantoin is a soothing ingredient known for its protective and moisturizing properties; it's basically a quiet workhorse ingredient you can find in a huge range of cosmetics.
Though it can be derived from the comfrey plant, allantoin is produced synthetically for cosmetic products to ensure purity.
Research shows it can encourage your skin cells to turn over and renew by stimulating keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation.
It also has mild keratolytic properties to help loosen and shed dead skin cells without being harsh.
Studies also suggest allantoin can help calm inflammation by dialing down some of the chemical signals your skin sends out when it is irritated.
This ingredient is typically used in the 0.1-0.5% range, and the FDA recognizes it as a skin protectant in OTC products up to 2%.
Overall, allantoin is a wonderful addition to most routines; it is stable across a wide pH range (~4-8), works well with other ingredients, and is considered non-sensitizing/non-irritating.
Fun fact: Allantoin is naturally occurring in comfrey root, beets, chamomile, and wheat sprouts. Our bodies even produce it as a byproduct of uric acid metabolism.
Learn more about AllantoinAscorbic Acid is is pure Vitamin C and is the biologically active form used directly by skin.
Not only is vitamin C great for your overall health and immune system, but it also has plenty of benefits for your skin. It is best supported by academic literature for:
Topical vitamin C has been shown to help neutralize oxidative stress from UV and pollution, helping to improve photoaging and hyperpigmentation when used consistently.
One clinical study found that using 5% topical vitamin C for six months improved signs of photodamaged skin, both on the surface and in the deeper structural layers of the skin.
While vitamin C doesn’t replace sunscreen, studies show it can boost photoprotection when combined with Vitamin E and ferulic acid. These two ingredients help improve stability and protective effects.
The big downside of this ingredient is formulation difficulty. Vitamin C is prone to oxidation and doesn't penetrate the skin unless formulated correctly. Research found that vitamin C absorbs into the skin best at a low pH (< 3.5) with about 20% being the upper limit for effective absorption.
Skin levels can saturate after repeated application; this means your skin won’t keep absorbing more once it’s full of vitamin C. This is why more isn’t always better with vitamin C and why very high concentrations don’t necessarily give extra benefits.
Ascorbic acid generally works well with many skincare ingredients but can be irritating when combined with other active ingredients. Strong oxidizing acne treatments like benzoyl peroxide can reduce the effectiveness of vitamin C if they are used at the same time; they are often recommended for use at different times of day.
Read more about other types of Vitamin C:
Foods rich with vitamin C include oranges, strawberries, broccoli, bell peppers, and more. When consuming Vitamin C, your skin receives a portion of the nutrients.
Learn more about Ascorbic AcidButylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolCeramide NP (formerly known as Ceramide 3) is one of the skin's naturally occurring lipids.
Since ceramides are the major lipid components of the skin, they are crucial for maintaining skin barrier and hydration. Ceramide NP most closely mirrors the dominant kind in human skin amongst ceramide subtypes.
This ceramide works by slotting into gaps within the stratum corneum's lipid matrix to limit trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and shield the skin against external irritants.
A study with 312 patients found that using a ceramide-containing routine for 4 weeks reduced the severity of atopic dermatitis by over 61%.
Another clinical study in subjects aged 60 and older found that a ceramide body wash and moisturizer improved skin dryness and itchy skin in 15 days.
Overall, ceramides are considered non-irritating and safety tests have found little to no observable adverse effects from using this ingredient.
Ceramide NP is usually sourced from plants (like soybean or rice bran), or produced synthetically.
Learn more about Ceramide NPCholesterol is a lipid that is naturally found in human skin and is one of the three key components of your skin barrier. In skincare, it is an emollient and barrier-repairing ingredient.
It works by fitting directly into the lipid layers of skin to help restore structure and reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
This is a great ingredient for dry, compromised, or aging skin; our skin starts to produce less cholesterol with age.
Research shows cholesterol works best in combination with ceramides and fatty acids, the other two major components in your skin barrier.
Cholesterol is also a well-establish penetration enhancer and can help other actives absorb more effectively.
Cosmetic-grade cholesterol is usually derived from lanolin but plant and synthetic options also exist. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about their source of cholesterol.
Learn more about CholesterolErgothioneine is an amino acid found naturally in mushrooms, grains, and meat. It has antioxidant and skin soothing properties.
This amino acid helps with:
- Maintaining DNA stability and cell reproduction
- Enhances cellular immunity
- Skin brightening
- Anti-aging
- Skin soothing
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHexapeptide-9 is a signaling peptide that is made to mimic a fragment found naturally in collagen IV and XVII.
It is classified as a matrikine peptide and works by telling your skin cells (especially fibroblasts) to ramp up collagen and hyaluronic acid production.
In-vitro studies show it can enhance epidermal regeneration, boost synthesis of collagen types I, III, and IV, and improved markers of skin differentiation.
Think of skin differentiation like this: your skin cells are born at the bottom and slowly travel up to the surface as they "grow up". As they move up, they start producing specific proteins that make your skin do its job well. Two of these proteins are keratin (it makes your skin tough) and filaggrin (it breaks apart into tiny molecules to keep your skin hydrated). So Hexapeptide-9 has shown to help skin cells grow up properly and make stronger, more hydrated skin.
A manufacturer also reports increased collagen production by 117% and hyaluronic acid production by 267%.
Just know much of the published data comes from manufacturer-sponsored studies. There is a recent clinical trial showing promising anti-aging results but the evidence base is still growing.
Generally, this ingredient is well-tolerated and there's no harm in using it as a supportive ingredient in your routine.
Learn more about Hexapeptide-9Hydrogenated Lecithin is a more stable version of lecithin.
It's made by taking lecithin (a phospholipid commonly found in soybeans and egg yolks) and hydrogenating it. This just means the unsaturated fatty acids are turned into saturated ones so they don't go bad as easily.
This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.
Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.
Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.
A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).
Learn more about Hydrogenated LecithinHydroxyacetophenone is a small phenolic molecule that earns its place in a formulas as an antioxidant and preservative booster.
As a phenol, it is able to neutralize free radicals to protect both the product and the skin from oxidative stress.
Though it can't kill microbes on its own, it works as a good supporting agent when combined with other preservatives like Phenoxyethanol or 1,2-Hexanediol.
This ingredient naturally occurs as piceol in Norwegian spruce needles (~0.4-1.1% dry weight and in cloudberries). Though the cosmetic-grade material is synthesized for purity and consistency.
You'll usually see it used at low levels and suppliers recommend up to 1% added to a water phase.
Safety testing was done at concentrations like 0.05% in SPF products and 0.5% in a Human Repeated Insult Patch Test. The safety evidence is assuring; this ingredient is safe for cosmetics in current use and also holds safety status as a food flavoring as well.
An honest caveat: the "soothing" and "anti-inflammatory" claims come mostly from supplier marketing rather than published clinical trials. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review's own literature search found no useful efficacy studies on this ingredient.
So the antioxidant and preservative-boosting roles are the well supported ones while the calming benefit is plausible but thinly evidenced.
Overall, this is a well-tolerated, low-irritation multitasker that quietly helps a formula stay fresh and stable.
Learn more about HydroxyacetophenoneOligopeptide-1 is another name for Epidermal Growth Factor (EGF). In a formula, EGF works as a signaling ingredient.
EGF binds to receptors on your skin cells and tells keratinocytes/fibroblasts to divide, move, and rebuild the skin's support structure.
A 2012 open-label study on a barley-derived EGF serum reported statistically significant improvements in fine-lines, skin texture, pore size, and uneven skin tone, with changes showing up within the first month of 2x/daily use.
And a 2023 review found generally positive but modest results for growth factor products while pointing out that most trials are small, often industry-funded, and rarely test EGF on its own.
So, a fair summary of this ingredient would be "promising with real mechanistic backing, but not yet large-scale proof".
Concentration-wise, EGF is biologically active at very tiny amounts so finished products use it at low levels (think parts per million).
Raw material supplies usually sell a pre-diluted EGF solution and recommend adding roughly 1-5% of that solution to a formula.
Another practical catch: EGF is a fragile protein so it reacts badly to heat and the wrong pH. This just means it relies heavily on good packaging and a solid delivery system to stay active in a bottle.
Oligopeptide-1 and Sh-Oligopeptide-1. The "sh-" prefix just means "synthetic human" and it tells you that it's the lab grown version.
Learn more about Oligopeptide-1We don't have a description for PEG/PPG-17/6 Copolymer yet.
Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate is a type of Hyaluronic Acid.
Hyaluronic Acids help moisturize, soothe, and protect the skin.
Read about common types of Hyaluronic Acid here:
Learn more about Sodium Acetylated HyaluronateSodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium HyaluronateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water