What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningDipropylene Glycol
HumectantStearyl Alcohol
EmollientCetyl Alcohol
EmollientBehentrimonium Chloride
PreservativeSteartrimonium Chloride
PreservativePropylene Glycol
HumectantPanthenol
Skin ConditioningStearamidopropyl Dimethylamine
EmulsifyingIsopropyl Alcohol
SolventZinc Pyrithione
AntiseborrhoeicCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientSalicylic Acid
MaskingPolyquaternium-10
Menthol
MaskingGuar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride
Skin ConditioningArginine
MaskingSodium Polynaphthalenesulfonate
Emulsion StabilisingMilk Protein Extract
Butylene Glycol
HumectantSodium Chloride
MaskingMentha Piperita Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningMentha Viridis Extract
Masking1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialHouttuynia Cordata Extract
Skin ConditioningLeonurus Sibiricus Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
SoothingNelumbo Nucifera Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningArtemisia Vulgaris Extract
Skin ConditioningMentha Rotundifolia Leaf Extract
TonicGlycine Max Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningNigella Sativa Seed Extract
PerfumingOryza Sativa Extract
AbsorbentRibes Nigrum Fruit Extract
AstringentRubus Fruticosus Fruit Extract
AstringentSesamum Indicum Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningSalvia Hispanica Seed Extract
EmollientVaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract
Skin ProtectingCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingBiotin
AntiseborrhoeicEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Corn Protein
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Soy Protein
HumectantHydrolyzed Wheat Protein
Skin ConditioningCopper Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningHexapeptide-9
Skin ConditioningNonapeptide-1
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Oligopeptide
CleansingPalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin ConditioningTripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningAcetyl Hexapeptide-8
HumectantAcetyl Tetrapeptide-2
Skin ConditioningMadecassoside
AntioxidantMadecassic Acid
Skin ConditioningAsiaticoside
AntioxidantAsiatic Acid
Skin ConditioningParfum
MaskingWater, Dipropylene Glycol, Stearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, Behentrimonium Chloride, Steartrimonium Chloride, Propylene Glycol, Panthenol, Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Isopropyl Alcohol, Zinc Pyrithione, Caprylyl Glycol, Salicylic Acid, Polyquaternium-10, Menthol, Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Arginine, Sodium Polynaphthalenesulfonate, Milk Protein Extract, Butylene Glycol, Sodium Chloride, Mentha Piperita Leaf Extract, Mentha Viridis Extract, 1,2-Hexanediol, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Houttuynia Cordata Extract, Leonurus Sibiricus Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Nelumbo Nucifera Flower Extract, Artemisia Vulgaris Extract, Mentha Rotundifolia Leaf Extract, Glycine Max Seed Extract, Nigella Sativa Seed Extract, Oryza Sativa Extract, Ribes Nigrum Fruit Extract, Rubus Fruticosus Fruit Extract, Sesamum Indicum Seed Extract, Salvia Hispanica Seed Extract, Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Biotin, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hydrolyzed Corn Protein, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Copper Tripeptide-1, Hexapeptide-9, Nonapeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Tripeptide-1, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2, Madecassoside, Madecassic Acid, Asiaticoside, Asiatic Acid, Parfum
Water
Skin ConditioningCocamidopropyl Betaine
CleansingTea-Cocoyl Glutamate
CleansingSodium Lauroyl Methylaminopropionate
CleansingDisodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate
CleansingCocamide Mea
EmulsifyingSodium Chloride
MaskingParfum
MaskingPolyquaternium-10
Caprylyl Glycol
EmollientHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantPPG-3 Myristyl Ether
EmollientPanthenol
Skin ConditioningSalicylic Acid
MaskingMenthol
MaskingCitric Acid
BufferingNiacinamide
SmoothingSodium Benzoate
MaskingPentasodium Pentetate
Butylene Glycol
HumectantGluconolactone
Skin ConditioningAminomethyl Propanol
Buffering1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningBiotin
AntiseborrhoeicMentha Piperita Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningMentha Viridis Extract
MaskingLeonurus Sibiricus Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
SoothingNelumbo Nucifera Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningHouttuynia Cordata Extract
Skin ConditioningArtemisia Vulgaris Extract
Skin ConditioningCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialMentha Rotundifolia Leaf Extract
TonicCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Corn Protein
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Soy Protein
HumectantHydrolyzed Wheat Protein
Skin ConditioningHexapeptide-9
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Oligopeptide
CleansingTripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningCopper Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningAsiatic Acid
Skin ConditioningAsiaticoside
AntioxidantAcetyl Hexapeptide-8
HumectantAcetyl Tetrapeptide-2
Skin ConditioningMadecassic Acid
Skin ConditioningMadecassoside
AntioxidantNonapeptide-1
Skin ConditioningWater, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Tea-Cocoyl Glutamate, Sodium Lauroyl Methylaminopropionate, Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate, Cocamide Mea, Sodium Chloride, Parfum, Polyquaternium-10, Caprylyl Glycol, Hydroxyacetophenone, PPG-3 Myristyl Ether, Panthenol, Salicylic Acid, Menthol, Citric Acid, Niacinamide, Sodium Benzoate, Pentasodium Pentetate, Butylene Glycol, Gluconolactone, Aminomethyl Propanol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Biotin, Mentha Piperita Leaf Extract, Mentha Viridis Extract, Leonurus Sibiricus Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Nelumbo Nucifera Flower Extract, Houttuynia Cordata Extract, Artemisia Vulgaris Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Mentha Rotundifolia Leaf Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hydrolyzed Corn Protein, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hexapeptide-9, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Tripeptide-1, Copper Tripeptide-1, Asiatic Acid, Asiaticoside, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2, Madecassic Acid, Madecassoside, Nonapeptide-1
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, commonly known as Argireline or Acetyl Hexapeptide-3, is a popular peptide in skincare. It’s often referred to as a “Botox-like” ingredient because it helps reduce muscle movement.
By relaxing these micro-movements, Argireline may help minimize the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. That said, it’s not as powerful as Botox, and research on its long-term effectiveness is still limited.
Beyond smoothing, Argireline may also support collagen production. Collagen is the protein that helps keep your skin firm, bouncy, and well-hydrated by strengthening the skin barrier.
So while Argireline isn’t a miracle fix, it can be a helpful addition to a routine focused on both prevention and skin health.
Read more about other common types of peptides here:
Learn more about Acetyl Hexapeptide-8This peptide is more commonly known as Thymulen 4 BG.
It is derived from a youth hormone called thymopoietin. Thymopoietin helps regulate the immune system and decreases naturally with age.
According to the manufacturer, this peptide boosts the skin's immune defenses and regenerates the outer layers of skin.
Learn more about Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2Artemisia Vulgaris Extract is more commonly known as the common mugwort. It has strong antioxidant properties and helps soothe irritation.
Antioxidants protect skin from damage and the signs of aging.
This plant contains the compounds saponins, glycosides, flavanoids, protein, triterpenoids.
The common wugwort has been used in traditional Indian, Chinese, and European medicines to treat gastrointestinal diseases.
Learn more about Artemisia Vulgaris ExtractAsiatic Acid is a major component of Centella Asiatica Extract. It has wound-healing, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant properties.
Studies show Asiatic Acid is able to block the pathway for skin inflammation receptors, helping to soothe skin.
As an antioxidant, asiatic acid helps protect our skin against damaging environmental factors.
Learn more about Asiatic AcidAsiaticoside comes from the super popular skin-soothing ingredient, Centella asiatica. It's the reason centella-based products have a strong reputation for repairing and calming skin, along with its sibling compound Madecassoside.
Research from 2016-2025 supports its role in:
You'll usually find this in concentrations between 0.2-5%.
Learn more about AsiaticosideBiotin is a B vitamin that is naturally produced by our bodies. It is also called Vitamin H.
Our bodies use biotin in the metabolism process. It also helps our bodies use enzymes and move nutrients around. A biotin deficiency can lead to brittle hair and nails.
More research is needed on applying biotin topically. However, taking biotin orally has been shown to help nourish the skin, hair, and nails. They play a role in forming skin-hydrating fatty acids.
Biotin is water-soluble. It can be found in foods such as fish, eggs, dairy, nuts, and meat. Vitamin H stands for "haar" and "haut". These are the German words for hair and skin.
Learn more about BiotinButylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract (tea extract) is one of the most well-researched plant extracts in skincare with an impressive resume.
Black tea, green tea, and oolong tea are all harvested from the Camellia Sinensis plant.
Studies show green tea extract and its catechins (like epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG)) help your skin cells product energy more efficiently and reducing the number of free-radicals that can damage your skin from the inside.
In lab-grown skin models, this translated to younger, healthier, and stronger skin.
There's also good sun protection data; researchers saw less DNA damage and redness on human skin when green tea was applied before UVB exposure. And the more they applied, the better the protection.
Needless to say, this ingredient shouldn't replace your sunscreen. But it is a great supportive ingredient that you can already find in many sunscreens and antioxidant serums.
A 2009 study found a 2% green tea lotion was effective for mild-to-moderate acne thanks to its anti-inflammatory and mild antimicrobial activity.
The quality of the extract matters a lot here:
Good extracts contain 50-90% catechins while lower quality ones are mostly there for marketing. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the quality or source of their ingredients.
Human Repeated Insult Patch Testing showed no irritation or sensitization at use concentrations (0.86% in leave-on products and up to 30% as leaf water).
Learn more about Camellia Sinensis Leaf ExtractCaprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Learn more about Caprylyl GlycolCentella Asiatica Extract (Centella) is derived from an herb native to Southeast Asia. It is famous for its anti-inflammatory and soothing properties.
Centella is rich in antioxidants and amino acids, such as Madecassic Acid and Asiaticoside.
Studies show the compounds in centella help with:
The combination of all these properties makes centella effective at soothing, hydrating, and protecting the skin.
Other great components of centella include Vitamin A, vitamin C, several B vitamins, and Asiatic Acid.
Fun fact: Centella has been used as a medicine and in food for many centuries. As a medicine, it is used to treat burns, scratches, and wounds.
Learn more about Centella Asiatica ExtractCopper Tripeptide-1 (GHK-Cu) is a skin repairing ingredient known for its ability to boost collagen, improve firmness, and support skin regeneration.
It is a complex made up of a naturally occurring peptide (glycine-histidine-lysine) and copper, an essential trace element.
While studying wound healing, researchers noticed GHK-Cu stimulated hair follicle enlargement and growth by keeping hair in its active growth phase longer. This has made it a promising ingredient for hair regrowth treatments.
Some people have reported increased facial hair. While GHK-Cu can make your hair follicles bigger, it usually doesn’t turn soft, barely-visible facial hairs into thick, dark ones.
Anecdotal reports suggest that overusing copper peptides might lead to premature aging due to excess free copper or enzyme imbalances. This claim isn’t backed by large-scale studies.
Unfortunately, there are limited human studies for this ingredient. While early results are promising, many studies are either small, in-vitro, or not rigorously controlled.
For example, there is a 1998 study that explored the effects of copper tripeptide, vitamin C, tretinoin, and melatonin on skin repair and collagen synthesis.
After one month, increased procollagen production was seen in 7 out of 10 participants using copper tripeptide (more than those using vitamin C, melatonin, or tretinoin.
While the study was exploratory, it offers early evidence that copper tripeptide may support collagen production. Larger, well-designed trials are still needed to confirm its potential and understand individual responses.
Read more about other common types of peptides here:
Learn more about Copper Tripeptide-1Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinHexapeptide-9 is a signaling peptide that is made to mimic a fragment found naturally in collagen IV and XVII.
It is classified as a matrikine peptide and works by telling your skin cells (especially fibroblasts) to ramp up collagen and hyaluronic acid production.
In-vitro studies show it can enhance epidermal regeneration, boost synthesis of collagen types I, III, and IV, and improved markers of skin differentiation.
Think of skin differentiation like this: your skin cells are born at the bottom and slowly travel up to the surface as they "grow up". As they move up, they start producing specific proteins that make your skin do its job well. Two of these proteins are keratin (it makes your skin tough) and filaggrin (it breaks apart into tiny molecules to keep your skin hydrated). So Hexapeptide-9 has shown to help skin cells grow up properly and make stronger, more hydrated skin.
A manufacturer also reports increased collagen production by 117% and hyaluronic acid production by 267%.
Just know much of the published data comes from manufacturer-sponsored studies. There is a recent clinical trial showing promising anti-aging results but the evidence base is still growing.
Generally, this ingredient is well-tolerated and there's no harm in using it as a supportive ingredient in your routine.
Learn more about Hexapeptide-9Houttuynia Cordata Extract is more commonly known as Heart Leaf, Fish Mint, or Chameleon plant.
The components found in Heart Leaf give it antioxidant, hydrating, antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory properties.
Heart Leaf is rich in flavonoids such as quercetin, apigenin, and more. It also contains polysaccharides, the most common type of carbs in food.
Flavonoids have been shown to be effective antioxidants. They help neutralize free-radical molecules. Free-radical molecules are unstable molecules that may damage our skin cells and DNA. The flavonoids in Heart Leaf also help soothe the skin.
Polysaccharides are naturally found in our skin. They play a role in hydrating and repairing the top layer of skin. The polysaccharides in Heart Leaf help moisturize our skin.
Studies show decanoyl acetaldehyde, a component of Heart Leaf oil, is effective at killing bacteria.
The name 'Fish Mint' comes from the herb's natural fishy smell. Is is native to southeast Asia and used throughout the continent for traditional cooking and medicine.
Learn more about Houttuynia Cordata ExtractWe don't have a description for Hydrolyzed Corn Protein yet.
Hydrolyzed Soy Protein is a vegan protein made to mimic hydrolyzed collagen. It is created from soy, or glycine soja.
This ingredient is a humectant, meaning it helps hydrate the skin by binding to water. According to a manufacturer, it is also a great hair conditioner.
Read more about hydrolyzed collagen here.
Learn more about Hydrolyzed Soy ProteinThis ingredient is a plant-derived protein made by breaking down wheat proteins into smaller amino acids and peptides. It has skin and hair conditioning properties.
People with known wheat allergy or a history of immediate reactions should be cautious with leave-on products containing hydrolyzed wheat proteins.
This ingredient is also known as motherwort extract.
Madecassic Acid is a major component of Centella Asiatica Extract. It has anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties.
It is a triterpenoid, meaning it naturally acts as an antioxidant. Antioxidants protect your skin against damage from environmental factors such as pollution and UV.
Studies show Madecassic Acid helps soothe the skin due to its ability to block inflammation pathways.
Learn more about Madecassic AcidMadecassoside is one of four active compounds found in Centella asiatica and is one of the main reasons Centella is so effective at calming irritated skin and supporting the moisture barrier.
There's a solid body of peer-reviewed research backing Madecassoside for several skin benefits. Studies have found:
Madecassoside pairs well with other hydrating or antioxidant ingredients like Ascorbic Acid or Hyaluronic Acid.
Learn more about MadecassosideMentha Piperita Leaf Extract is extract from peppermint leaves. It has a "cooling" sensory feel depending on what compounds are found in the extract.
Peppermint leaves contain polyphenols that antioxidant activity. In-vitro studies show anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial activity against some bacteria and fungi.
Evidence for mint as a "treatment" ingredient is limited and depends heavily on the specific extract type and concentration.
In large percentages, peppermint extract may sensitize the skin.
Learn more about Mentha Piperita Leaf ExtractWe don't have a description for Mentha Rotundifolia Leaf Extract yet.
We don't have a description for Mentha Viridis Extract yet.
Menthol is a compound found in mint plants, such as peppermint. In its pure form, it is a clear crystalline substance.
Menthol is known for its cooling sensation; however, the cooling is actually from your skin being sensitized. Menthol can worsen rosacea. We recommend speaking with a professional if you have concerns.
Menthol also has antimicrobial properties.
Learn more about MentholNelumbium Speciosum Flower Extract comes from the Lotus Flower. It is rich in antioxidants.
The antioxidant properties in lotus flower come from compounds such as flavonoids.
In traditional Asian medicine, Lotus flower seeds were used to help treat inflammation.
Learn more about Nelumbo Nucifera Flower ExtractNonapeptide-1 is created from amino acids including arginine and lysine.
It has antioxidant and antimicrobial properties.
Emerging studies show Nonapeptide-1 to help with reducing pigmentation and brightening the skin. It has shown to prevent the activation of tyrosinase, an enzyme in the skin that begins the process of melanin creation. Melanin is responsible for giving skin a tan or dark spots.
Learn more about Nonapeptide-1Palmitoyl Oligopeptide is a form of peptide. It is created by blending peptides with palmitic acid. Peptides are building blocks for protein.
Due to the palmitic acid base, it may not be malassezia folliculitis safe.
This ingredients tells our body to create more collagen. Collagen is a protein that makes connective tissue. Boosting collagen production leads to a healthier skin barrier. Having a healthy skin barrier means having firm and hydrated skin.
Read more about other common types of peptides here:
Learn more about Palmitoyl OligopeptideYou might know this ingredient as Matrixyl. It is a synthetic peptide made up of five amino acids attached to a palmitic acid, a fatty acid that helps it absorb into skin more easily.
As a signal peptide, Matrixyl acts like a little messenger. Once it reaches your skin cells, it tells them to ramp up production of collagen, elastin, and other proteins that keep skin looking firm and smooth.
A 12 week clinical study found that a moisturizer containing just 3 ppm of Matrixyl led to a significant improvement in fine-lines and wrinkles. Another study showed an 18% reduction in wrinkle depth, 37% reduction in wrinkle thickness, and a 21% improvement in skin firmness after just 28 days of twice-daily use.
The coolest part is that it works at incredibly low concentrations (like 0.0003%) and it plays well with other actives.
The CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) panel found it to be non-sensitizing across multiple tests and human patch tests also showed no irritation or sensitization.
Fun fact: Matrixyl was originally developed by French company Sederma and Procter & Gamble.
Read more about other common types of peptides here:
Learn more about Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 (formerly Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-3) is a synthetic peptide. Its main job is to fight what researchers call "inflammaging".
"Inflammaging" is the slow, low-grade chronic inflammation that quietly breaks down collagen as we age.
This ingredient calms down a specific inflammation signal in your skin cells (called IL-6). When left unchecked, this signal triggers enzymes that break down collagen and elastin.
Clinical testing showed statistically significant improvements in:
Studies also found the more of this ingredient used, the more your skin produces Collagen I, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid.
You'll likely see this ingredient paired with Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 in the well-known Matrixyl 3000 complex for enhanced anti-aging effects.
A 3% concentration applied twice daily for two months showed meaningful skin rejuvenation results in clinical panels.
Fungal acne note:
Usually a palmitic acid component can feed Malassezia in unbound form, but here is is covalently bonded to the peptide. This means it is very difficult for Malassezia to access, and therefore very unlikely to cause fungal acne.
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 (aka Pal-GHK) is a synthetic signal peptide made of three amino acids attached to palmitic acid.
That fatty acid attachment is the key: it boosts the peptide's ability to penetrate the skin barrier. This puts it closer to the dermal cells where it can actually make a difference.
Once there, it acts as a matrikine, a signaling peptide that prompts fibroblasts to produce more collagen, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid.
In vitro studies show it can boost collagen production in skin cells even when UV-damaged skin samples were treated with it at a tiny concentration (it almost fully restored dermal collagen at 5ppm). It achieved this at 100x lower concentration than retinoic acid, which needed 500 ppm to do the same thing.
Human clinical data is promising, but modest:
A study of 23 female volunteers found a small but statistically significant increase (~4%) in skin thickness after treatment at 4 ppm.
A separate small trial of 15 women showed statistically significant reductions in wrinkle length, depth, and skin roughness after applying it twice daily for four weeks.
You'll likely see Pal-GHK paired with Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 as part of the Matrixyl 3000 complex.
Fungal acne note:
Usually a palmitic acid component can feed Malassezia in unbound form, but here is is covalently bonded to the peptide. This means it is very difficult for Malassezia to access, and therefore very unlikely to cause fungal acne.
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 is a synthetic signal lipopeptide. This just means it is a three amino acid chain bolted onto a palmitic acid tail so it can slip through the skin's lipid barrier.
This peptide has a "build more, lose less" approach.
It's designed to mimic the collagen-stimulating activity in your skin by copying a snippet of one of your skin's own matrix proteins. This nudges fibroblasts into making more collagen while inhibiting the enzyme that breaks down skin protein.
The manufacturer's in vivo study of 45 volunteers found 1% and 2.5% reduced the appearance of wrinkles by 7% and 12% respectively, after using it twice daily for 84 days.
This is in the expected range for peptides; they're slow and cumulative actives and not overnight fixers.
Typical use levels range from 1-3% and this ingredient gets along with pretty much everything.
On the fungal acne front:
Although palmitic acid sits in the chain length that Malassezia can feed on, this ingredient has it locked in an amine bond. This makes it hard for Malassezia to access as a source of food, and therefore fungal acne safe.
Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Learn more about PanthenolParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumPolyquaternium-10 is an ammonium salt of hydroxyethylcellulose. It is a white and granular powder used as a film-former and anti-static agent.
This ingredient is commonly found in hair conditioning products. According to a manufacturer, its positive charge makes it great for absorbing hair proteins. The manufacturer also states this ingredient helps with curl retention.
For haircare friends: this ingredient is not a silicone.
Learn more about Polyquaternium-10Salicylic Acid (also known as beta hydroxy acid or BHA) is a well-known ingredient for treating skin that struggles with acne and clogged pores. It exfoliates both the skin's surface and deep within the pores to help clear out buildup, control oil, and reduce inflammation.
Unlike AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids), salicylic acid is oil-soluble. This allows it to penetrate into pores which makes it especially effective for treating blackheads and preventing future breakouts.
Salicylic acid is also known for its soothing properties. It has a similar structure to aspirin and can calm inflamed or irritated skin, making it a good option for acne-prone skin that is also sensitive.
Concentrations of 0.5-2% are recognized by the U.S. FDA as an over-the-counter topical acne product.
It can cause irritation and/or dryness if one's skin already has a compromised moisture barrier, so it's best to focus on repairing that before introducing this ingredient into your routine.
While salicylic acid does not increase sun sensitivity, it’s still important to wear sunscreen daily to protect your skin.
If you are looking for the ingredient called BHA or Butylated Hydroxyanisole, click here.
Learn more about Salicylic AcidChances are, you eat sodium chloride every day. Sodium Chloride is also known as table salt. This ingredient has many purposes in skincare: thickener, emulsifier, and exfoliator.
You'll most likely find this ingredient in cleansers where it is used to create a gel-like texture. As an emulsifier, it also prevents ingredients from separating.
You might see people debate whether Sodium Chloride is comedogenic, but there actually haven't been any comedogenic tests done on it. Either way, the overall formulation of a product matters a lot more than any single ingredient.
You might see this ingredient used in scrubs as a primary exfoliating ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium ChlorideTripeptide-1, also known as GHK), is a small, three-amino-acid peptide made up of glycine, histidine, and lysine.
This ingredient is a signal peptide and tell your skin to start producing fresh collagen, elastin, and other key structural proteins. This helps maintain firmness and reduces the look of fine-lines/wrinkles.
GHK is also unique because is also acts as a carrier peptide. It binds to and transports copper ions (forming the complex GHK-Cu). This form has been studied for decades and is known to stimulate wound healing, boost antioxidant defenses, and promote collagen/elastin synthesis.
In-vitro studies show both GHK and GHK-CU increase fibroblast activity that enhances the production of collagen, elastin, fibronectin, and other extracellular matrix components.
Both of these compounds also help balance enzymes that control collagen breakdown.
Human studies (in-vivo) using GHK-Cu creams have reported visible improvements to skin density, elasticity, and wrinkle depth after several weeks of use.
A small clinical study also found topical collagen tripeptide improved wrinkle appearance and skin elasticity in women after four weeks.
While these results are promising, most research is based on GHK-Cu or its derivatives rather than Tripeptide-1 alone (Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 is a famous derivative of GHK). However, the consensus still supports GHK as a potent skin-signaling molecule that can encourage regeneration and maintain youthful looking skin.
Fun fact: GHK is a naturally occurring fragment of type 1 collagen that can be found in human plasma, saliva, and urine.
Learn more about Tripeptide-1Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water