Numbuzin No.1 Pantothenic B5 Active Soothing Serum Versus The INKEY List Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA) Serum
This calming serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Panthenol to calm redness and balance excess oil.
This acne serum is formulated around Salicylic Acid and Zinc PCA to clear breakouts and refine the look of pores.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantNiacinamide
SmoothingGlycerin
HumectantDipropylene Glycol
Humectant1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningPanthenol
Skin ConditioningSophora Angustifolia Root Extract
Skin ConditioningAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingPropanediol
SolventDiethoxyethyl Succinate
SolventTromethamine
BufferingHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Betaine
HumectantPantothenic Acid
Skin ConditioningTrehalose
HumectantEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningGlyceryl Oleate
EmollientSodium Phytate
Allantoin
Skin ConditioningAlpha-Arbutin
AntioxidantHouttuynia Cordata Extract
Skin ConditioningLauryl Glucoside
CleansingMyristyl Glucoside
CleansingPolyglyceryl-6 Laurate
EmulsifyingZinc PCA
HumectantMelia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantGlycyrrhiza Uralensis Root Extract
Skin ConditioningMelia Azadirachta Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningCoccinia Indica Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantCitric Acid
BufferingSolanum Melongena Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningBeta-Glucan
Skin ConditioningOcimum Sanctum Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningHyaluronic Acid
HumectantDecyl Glucoside
CleansingCurcuma Longa Root Extract
AntioxidantCorallina Officinalis Extract
Skin ConditioningDipotassium Glycyrrhizate
HumectantHydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
HumectantSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialCentella Asiatica Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningCladosiphon Okamuranus Extract
Skin ConditioningSalix Alba Bark Extract
AstringentSodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
HumectantCoffea Arabica Seed Extract
MaskingBeta-Sitosterol
Emulsion StabilisingPolyglyceryl-10 Stearate
Skin ConditioningCitrus Aurantium Bergamia Leaf Extract
AstringentPinus Densiflora Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialWater, Butylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Glycerin, Dipropylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Panthenol, Sophora Angustifolia Root Extract, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Propanediol, Diethoxyethyl Succinate, Tromethamine, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Betaine, Pantothenic Acid, Trehalose, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glyceryl Oleate, Sodium Phytate, Allantoin, Alpha-Arbutin, Houttuynia Cordata Extract, Lauryl Glucoside, Myristyl Glucoside, Polyglyceryl-6 Laurate, Zinc PCA, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Tocopherol, Glycyrrhiza Uralensis Root Extract, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Citric Acid, Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract, Beta-Glucan, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Hyaluronic Acid, Decyl Glucoside, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Cladosiphon Okamuranus Extract, Salix Alba Bark Extract, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Coffea Arabica Seed Extract, Beta-Sitosterol, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Leaf Extract, Pinus Densiflora Leaf Extract
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Betaine is a humectant. Like hyaluronic acid, it helps attract and retain moisture in the skin. It’s known for being gentle and for helping the skin maintain balanced hydration.
Betaine is mainly used to improve hydration and support calmer skin. It helps skin cells regulate water balance because it functions as an osmolyte.
Some studies suggest betaine may support making skin tone more even.
Fun fact: Betaine naturally exists in the skin and the body. In cosmetic products, it can be either plant-derived (most commonly from sugar beets) or synthetically produced for consistency and stability.
Betaine is also known as trimethylglycine.
Learn more about BetaineEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinPropanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Learn more about PropanediolSodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium HyaluronateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterZinc PCA is a clever two-in-one molecule: the zinc salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA).
Think of it as two useful things bonded together; the PCA half is one of your skin's own natural moisturizing factors (NMF) so it helps hold water in the upper layers. On the other hand, the zinc half does the heavy lifting on oil and bacteria.
The zinc part slows down an enzyme that turns testosterone into DHT, the hormone that tells your oil glands to pump out more sebum. Less of that signal means less oil. It also gently fights acne-causing bacteria and soothes redness/irritation.
This is why Zinc PCA often shows up in products for oily, breakout-prone skin and greasy scalps.
One lab study also hinted it might have a small anti-aging perk because it seemed to protect collagen from UVA damage and even helped the skin make a bit more of it. That last bit is still early research done in a dish and not real skin, so take it as a nice bonus rather than a promise for now.
As for scar healing, the picture is more "maybe" than a firm yes. Zinc itself plays a real role in wound repair because it is a cofactor for the enzymes involved in collagen building, calming inflammation, and helping new skin cells cover a wound. Lower zinc levels are also linked to slower healing.
Most of the scar healing research is on zinc oxide or oral zinc rather than zinc PCA specifically, with a focus on healing fresh wounds instead of scars that are already there.
Direct evidence that zinc PCA improves the look of established scars is still limited at this time. Though it would be fair to say zinc PCA supports the general skin-repair environment thanks to its zinc content .
This ingredient is water-soluble and plays nicely with other actives like niacinamide and salicylic acid. It works best at mildly acidic formulas (~4-6 pH) and is effective at low levels. Around 0.1% is enough to be active and finished products commonly use it anywhere up to 4%.
Overall, this is a well-tolerated, low-drama multitasker that suits oily and acne-prone skin.
Learn more about Zinc PCA