What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningPPG-15 Stearyl Ether
EmollientCetearyl Alcohol
Emollient
Paraffinum Liquidum
Emollient
Petrolatum
Emollient
Butylene Glycol
Humectant
Paraffin
Skin ConditioningGlyceryl Stearate
Emollient
Glycerin
Humectant
Dimethicone
Emollient
PEG-20 Stearate
Emulsifying
Tocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant
Oenothera Biennis Oil
Emollient
Xanthan Gum
EmulsifyingPropylene Glycol
Humectant
Methylparaben
Preservative
Propylparaben
Preservative
Sodium Lactate
Buffering
Tetrasodium EDTA
Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract
RefreshingLactic Acid
Buffering
2-Bromo-2-Nitropropane-1,3-Diol
Preservative
BHT
Antioxidant
Sorbitol
Humectant
CI 14700
Cosmetic ColorantCI 42090
Cosmetic ColorantWater, PPG-15 Stearyl Ether, Cetearyl Alcohol, Paraffinum Liquidum, Petrolatum, Butylene Glycol, Paraffin, Glyceryl Stearate, Glycerin, Dimethicone, PEG-20 Stearate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Oenothera Biennis Oil, Xanthan Gum, Propylene Glycol, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Sodium Lactate, Tetrasodium EDTA, Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract, Lactic Acid, 2-Bromo-2-Nitropropane-1,3-Diol, BHT, Sorbitol, CI 14700, CI 42090
Water
Skin ConditioningAloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Skin Conditioning
Glycerin
Humectant
Cetearyl Isononanoate
Emollient
Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
Emulsifying
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Emollient
Diethylhexyl Adipate
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate Citrate
Emollient
Sorbitol
Humectant
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialCetearyl Alcohol
Emollient
Octocrylene
UV Absorber
Panthenol
Skin Conditioning
Tocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant
Cyclopentasiloxane
Emollient
Phenoxyethanol
Preservative
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Emollient
Alcohol
Antimicrobial
Carbomer
Emulsion StabilisingButyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane
UV Absorber
Lecithin
Emollient
Propanediol
Solvent
Benzoic Acid
Masking
Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate
Antioxidant
Dehydroacetic Acid
Preservative
Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract
RefreshingHydrogenated Lecithin
Emulsifying
Sodium Hydroxide
BufferingDisodium Adenosine Triphosphate
Skin ConditioningCyclohexasiloxane
Emollient
Alcohol Denat.
Antimicrobial
Sodium Hyaluronate
Humectant
Tocopherol
Antioxidant
Ascorbyl Palmitate
Antioxidant
Ubiquinone
Antioxidant
Glyceryl Stearate
Emollient
Citric Acid
Buffering
Glyceryl Oleate
Emollient
Disodium EDTA
Algin
Masking
Carica Papaya Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningTriethanolamine
BufferingDimethylmethoxy Chromanol
Antioxidant
Water, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Glycerin, Cetearyl Isononanoate, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Diethylhexyl Adipate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Sorbitol, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Octocrylene, Panthenol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Cyclopentasiloxane, Phenoxyethanol, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Alcohol, Carbomer, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Lecithin, Propanediol, Benzoic Acid, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, Dehydroacetic Acid, Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Sodium Hydroxide, Disodium Adenosine Triphosphate, Cyclohexasiloxane, Alcohol Denat., Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopherol, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Ubiquinone, Glyceryl Stearate, Citric Acid, Glyceryl Oleate, Disodium EDTA, Algin, Carica Papaya Fruit Extract, Triethanolamine, Dimethylmethoxy Chromanol
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearateSambucus Nigra Flower Extract comes from the European Elder Tree. It's a polyphenol-rich extract that give it antioxidant, skin soothing, and tonic properties.
In-vitro studies show elder extracts can inhibit collagenase (or the enzyme that degrades collagen), including the ones triggered by UV damage from the sun.
This ingredient is generally well-tolerated unless you have a known elder or Adoxaceae allergy.
Learn more about Sambucus Nigra Flower ExtractSorbitol is a sugar alcohol. It is a hydrating and moisturizing agent created from the reduction process of glucose.
Most sorbitol is usually made from potato starch. It is also found in fruits such as apples and pears.
As a humectant, Sorbitol helps draw water to the skin. This helps keep the skin hydrated. Sorbitol also helps create a thicker texture in products. You might find sorbitol in your toothpaste and other gels.
It is a non-irritating ingredient that is great for those with dry skin.
Sorbitol is a prebiotic. It helps promote the growth of healthy bacteria on your skin. The bacteria on your skin form a microbiome. This microbiome helps protect your skin from infection and harmful bacteria.
Learn more about SorbitolTocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.
Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.
It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.
One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.
Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.
Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.
The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.
Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.
Learn more about Tocopheryl AcetateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water
