What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Caviar Water
Skin ConditioningWater
Skin ConditioningPropanediol
SolventDimethicone
EmollientGlycoproteins
Skin ConditioningPanax Ginseng Root Extract
EmollientEquisetum Arvense Extract
AstringentCaviar Extract
Skin ConditioningLens Esculenta Seed Extract
Skin ProtectingAvena Sativa Kernel Extract
AbrasiveYeast Extract
Skin ConditioningErgothioneine
AntioxidantSaccharide Isomerate
HumectantSaccharomyces Cerevisiae Extract
Skin ConditioningAmodimethicone
Sodium Citrate
BufferingDisodium EDTA
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingSodium Hydroxide
BufferingCitric Acid
BufferingGlycerin
HumectantPropylene Glycol
HumectantSodium Salicylate
PreservativeLactobacillus Ferment
Skin ConditioningPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningPolysorbate 80
EmulsifyingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingDimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Skin ConditioningCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingParfum
MaskingLinalool
PerfumingCitronellol
PerfumingGeraniol
PerfumingLimonene
PerfumingEugenol
PerfumingBenzyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialBenzyl Salicylate
PerfumingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningSodium Benzoate
MaskingCaviar Water, Water, Propanediol, Dimethicone, Glycoproteins, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Equisetum Arvense Extract, Caviar Extract, Lens Esculenta Seed Extract, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Yeast Extract, Ergothioneine, Saccharide Isomerate, Saccharomyces Cerevisiae Extract, Amodimethicone, Sodium Citrate, Disodium EDTA, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Sodium Hydroxide, Citric Acid, Glycerin, Propylene Glycol, Sodium Salicylate, Lactobacillus Ferment, Pentylene Glycol, Polysorbate 80, Xanthan Gum, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Carbomer, Parfum, Linalool, Citronellol, Geraniol, Limonene, Eugenol, Benzyl Benzoate, Benzyl Salicylate, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Benzoate
Water
Skin ConditioningC12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialButylene Glycol
HumectantGlycerin
HumectantDimethicone
EmollientCoco-Caprylate/Caprate
EmollientC12-13 Alkyl Lactate
EmollientPolysorbate 60
EmulsifyingSd Alcohol 40-B
AstringentGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientCetyl Alcohol
EmollientSqualane
EmollientButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningGlycoproteins
Skin ConditioningPanax Ginseng Root Extract
EmollientEquisetum Arvense Extract
AstringentCaviar Extract
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantIsobutylamido Thiazolyl Resorcinol
BleachingChondrus Crispus Extract
Skin ConditioningArtemisia Capillaris Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningZiziphus Jujuba Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningScutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract
AstringentGlycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
BleachingSaccharomyces Cerevisiae Extract
Skin ConditioningLactobacillus Ferment
Skin ConditioningPentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
AntioxidantPEG-75 Stearate
C12-16 Alcohols
EmollientDimethicone Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingCeteth-20
CleansingSteareth-20
CleansingAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingTocopherol
AntioxidantXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingPalmitic Acid
EmollientHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingSodium Hydroxide
BufferingSalicylic Acid
MaskingPropylene Glycol
HumectantDisodium EDTA
Sodium Lactate
BufferingCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingCoco-Glucoside
CleansingMorus Alba Root Extract
BleachingCaprylyl/Capryl Glucoside
CleansingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningParfum
MaskingLinalool
PerfumingCitronellol
PerfumingGeraniol
PerfumingLimonene
PerfumingBenzyl Salicylate
PerfumingAlpha-Isomethyl Ionone
PerfumingSodium Dehydroacetate
PreservativePhenoxyethanol
PreservativeWater, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, C12-13 Alkyl Lactate, Polysorbate 60, Sd Alcohol 40-B, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetyl Alcohol, Squalane, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Glycoproteins, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Equisetum Arvense Extract, Caviar Extract, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Sodium Hyaluronate, Isobutylamido Thiazolyl Resorcinol, Chondrus Crispus Extract, Artemisia Capillaris Flower Extract, Ziziphus Jujuba Fruit Extract, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Saccharomyces Cerevisiae Extract, Lactobacillus Ferment, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, PEG-75 Stearate, C12-16 Alcohols, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Ceteth-20, Steareth-20, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Tocopherol, Xanthan Gum, Palmitic Acid, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Sodium Hydroxide, Salicylic Acid, Propylene Glycol, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Lactate, Carbomer, Coco-Glucoside, Morus Alba Root Extract, Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, Ethylhexylglycerin, Parfum, Linalool, Citronellol, Geraniol, Limonene, Benzyl Salicylate, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Phenoxyethanol
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is a synthetic polymer. It is used to thicken, emulsify, and improve the texture of products.
As an emulsifier, it helps stabilize oil-in-water emulsions to give products an elegant feel when applied.
It can also form a thin protective film on skin. One study found that a formula using this polymer helped slow down how quickly other ingredients (like DEET) were absorbed through skin.
A 2024 study of over 1,300 patients confirmed that sensitization to this ingredient is rare. It is also non-mutagenic and has a clean track record.
Learn more about Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate CrosspolymerBenzyl Salicylate is a solvent and fragrance additive. It is an ester of benzyl alcohol and salicylic acid. This ingredient can be naturally found in some plants and plant extracts.
In fragrances, Benzyl Salicylate may be a solvent or a fragrance component. In synthetic musk scents, it is used as a solvent. For floral fragrances such as lilac and jasmine, it is used as a fragrance component. The natural scent of Benzyl Salicylate is described as "lightly-sweet, slightly balsamic".
While Benzyl Salicylate has been associated with contact dermatitis and allergies, emerging studies show it may not be caused by this ingredient alone.
However, this ingredient is often used with fragrances and other components that may cause allergies. It is still listed as a known allergen in the EU. We recommend speaking with a professional if you have concerns.
Another study from 2021 shows Benzyl Salicylate may have anti-inflammatory properties.
Learn more about Benzyl SalicylateCarbomer is a high-molecular weight polymer of acrylic acid. It is used to form gels and thicken formulas.
Due to its large molecular size, carbomer has minimal skin penetration and is considered an inert ingredient.
A high amount of carbomer can cause pilling or balling up of products. Don't worry, most products contain 1% or less of carbomer.
Learn more about CarbomerCaviar extract comes from the roe (or internal egg) of fish. This ingredient is rich in Omega-3's, antioxidants, amino acids, vitamin B12, iron, and magnesium. These components give it skin conditioning properties.
A study from 2020 found a component of caviar extract, docosahexaenoic acid (DHA), protects skin against UV-B skin aging.
Unless a company discloses more information, the source of this ingredient is unknown. It can be extracted from sturgeon, paddlefish, salmon, trout, carp, or more. According to animal organizations, true caviar is only extracted from the sturgeon fish.
Caviar can be extracted from the fish using several methods:
Learn more about Caviar ExtractCitronellol is used to add fragrance/parfum to a product. It is often derived from plants such as roses. In fact, it can be found in many essential oils including geranium, lavender, neroli, and more. The scent of Citronellol is often described as "fresh, grassy, and citrus-like".
Since the Citronellol molecule is already unstable, Citronellol becomes irritating on the skin when exposed to air.
Citronellol is a modified terpene. Terpenes are unsaturated hydrocarbons found in plants. They make up the primary part of essential oils.
Citronellol is not able to be absorbed into deeper layers of the skin. It has low permeability,
Citronellol is also a natural insect repellent.
Learn more about CitronellolDimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Learn more about DimethiconeDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAThis botanical extract is also known as horsetail extract. It mainly acts as an emollient, skin soother, and astringent.
A study from 2023 found compounds in Equisetum Arvense showed significant anti-inflammatory effects in irritated keratinocytes (the main cell in your outermost layer of skin).
Another study using a cream with horsetail and soybean extract found 80% of participants showed at least a 26% improvement in forehead wrinkles after 8 weeks.
Animal research has shown topical Equisetum Arvense stimulated skin and tissue growth in mice.
The research so far is encouraging, but still in its early days. But it's a lovely supporting ingredient and can be a welcome addition to any routine.
Learn more about Equisetum Arvense ExtractEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGeraniol is used to add fragrance/parfum to a product. It is the main component of citronellol. It is a monoterpenoid and an alcohol.
Monoterpenes are naturally found in many parts of different plants.
Geraniol can be found in many essential oils including Rose Oil and Citronella Oil. The scent of Geraniol is often described as "rose-like". Many foods also contain Geraniol for fruit flavoring.
Geraniol can irritate the skin when exposed to air. However, irritation depends on the ability of geraniol to penetrate into the skin. In general, geraniol is not able to penetrate skin easily.
Geraniol is colorless and has low water-solubility. However, it is soluble in common organic solvents.
Like citronellol, it is a natural insect repellent.
2,6-Octadien-1-ol, 3,7-dimethyl-, (2E)-
Learn more about GeraniolGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlycoproteins are proteins with sugar chains attached to them. They're naturally found throughout your body, including your skin's extracellular matrix.
In your skin, glycoproteins work alongside collagen and other structural proteins to keep everything held together and functioning properly. Their sugar components make them great at binding water and keeping the skin hydrated. They also part of the extracellular matrix that plays a direct role in wound healing.
The glycoproteins found in skincare are most commonly derived from yeast, algae, or plant sources.
In-vitro studies have shown that yeast-derived glycoproteins can boost cellular oxygen content and increase energy production in skin cells.
In general, this is a well-tolerated humectant and skin conditioning ingredient. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has found no signs of irritation, adverse effects, or abnormal reactions from this ingredient.
Learn more about GlycoproteinsThis ingredient is made when the Lactobacillus bacteria (the same kind that makes yogurt and kimchi) are allowed to ferment a nutrient medium.
As it ferments, it collects lactic acid, peptides, enzymes, and other bioactive metabolites to provide:
A 2023 review noted that probiotic fermentation ingredients like this one can enhance antioxidant capacity, reduce UV-induced oxidative damage, and support barrier function.
One clinical study from the same year showed a Lactobacillus ferment lysate significantly reduced transepidermal water loss and improved skin hydration.
Another review highlighted that topical Lactobacillus-based preparations can improve ceramide levels in the stratum corneum, support barrier integrity, and even help reduce S. aureus colonization in atopic dermatitis.
Why is this so cool?
Basically, your skin's outer layer works as a brick wall; skin cells are bricks and ceramides are the mortar holding it together. Moisture escapes, irritants get in, and your skin gets dry and reactive when ceramide levels drop. On top of that, "bad" skin bacteria S. aureus loves to move in when your barrier is weak to make inflammation and irritation worse.
So Lactobacillus ferment is basically patching the wall and evicting the troublemaker when it boosts ceramide production and help keep S. aureus in check.
On top of all this, it also acts as a mild antimicrobial preservative booster.
Just so you know, most studies focus on specific strains or the lysate form rather than this generic "Lactobacillus Ferment", so results can vary.
Though it's a promising ingredient, it doesn't have decades of robust clinical data behind it just yet.
Lactobacillus Ferment is generally considered safe for fungal-acne prone skin. The key thing to understand is that it comes from bacteria, not yeast or fungus.
Yeast-derived ferments (like galactomyces) have been shown to activate a protein that's linked to Malassezia-related skin issues whereas lactobacillus doesn't have that problem.
Its byproducts also don't contain the types of fatty acids (C11-24 chain lengths) that Malassezia feeds on.
Learn more about Lactobacillus FermentLimonene is a fragrance that adds scent and taste to a formulation.
It's found in the peel oil of citrus fruits and other plants such as lavender and eucalyptus. The scent of limonene is generally described as "sweet citrus".
Limonene acts as an antioxidant, meaning it helps neutralize free radicals.
When exposed to air, oxidized limonene may sensitize the skin. Because of this, limonene is often avoided by people with sensitive skin.
The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.
Learn more about LimoneneLinalool is a fragrance and helps add scent to products. It's derived from common plants such as cinnamon, mint, citrus, and lavender.
Like Limonene, this ingredient oxidizes when exposed to air. Oxidized linalool can cause allergies and skin sensitivity.
This ingredient has a scent that is floral, spicy tropical, and citrus-like.
Learn more about LinaloolGinseng root is a well-loved ingredient in Asian skincare for good reason. It hydrates the skin, soothes irritation, and helps even out skin tone.
In traditional East Asian medicine, ginseng has been used for centuries both as food and as a healing remedy, and modern research continues to confirm its skin benefits.
One of the standout features of ginseng is its ability to improve blood circulation and oxygen delivery to the skin, bringing a fresh supply of nutrients to support overall skin health. It also has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. This helps to protect your skin against damage from UV exposure, pollution, and daily stress.
Additionally, studies suggest that ginseng may help reduce hyperpigmentation by inhibiting tyrosinase, the enzyme involved in melanin production.
There are different types of ginseng used in skincare, and while they all share core benefits, their potency can vary.
Most products use fresh or white ginseng because itâs more affordable. However, red ginseng, produced by steaming the root, contains higher levels of ginsenosides, which are compounds with proven anti-aging effects. These ginsenosides help reduce the appearance of wrinkles and improve skin elasticity.
Note: All forms of ginseng are listed simply as âPanax ginsengâ in ingredient lists. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about which type of ginseng is used in their ingredients.
For general antioxidant benefits, any ginseng extract will do, but for wrinkle care or firmer skin, red or fermented ginseng is often more effective.
In short, ginseng is a powerhouse ingredient that supports hydration, radiance, and resilience.
Learn more about Panax Ginseng Root ExtractParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of âFRAGRANCEâ or âPARFUMâ according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumPhenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Propylene Glycol is a synthetic, colorless, odorless liquid that has been a staple in cosmetics for decades. It is a skin conditioning agent, humectant, and solvent.
As a humectant, it draw water to the skin to reduce flaking and restore suppleness. It's also a solvent that helps dissolve other actives and keeps formulas stable across temperature changes.
The CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be nontoxic and clinical studies show no sensitization at cosmetic use concentrations.
True allergic reactions are quite rare: a 15-year retrospective study of 6,751 patients found only 0.31% had a positive reaction (and less than half were considered clinically relevant).
It seemed that when sensitization does occur, it's most commonly linked to topical medication (like corticosteroids) and not cosmetics. Allergic contact dermatitis also appears largely limited to individuals with underlying skin conditions.
Overall, propylene glycol is a well-studied ingredient that most people can tolerate without issue.
Learn more about Propylene GlycolSaccharomyces Cerevisiae Extract comes from a yeast used in fermentation. It has skin conditioning properties due to its naturally occurring peptides, polysaccharides (including beta-glucans), amino acids, minerals, and vitamins.
Clinical research shows formulas that contain this ingredient can improve moisture levels and refine skin texture over time. This is associate with its ability to reduce free-radical activity and protect the skin against environmental damage.
Lab studies demonstrate that some peptide fractions in this ingredient possess antioxidant and anti-collegenase effects, helping to protect the structural proteins in skin and soothing inflammation.
Additionally, this ingredient has been shown to have antimicrobial effects against bacteria associated with acne.
Learn more about Saccharomyces Cerevisiae ExtractSodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.
In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.
Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.
"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.
Learn more about Sodium HydroxideWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum