What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantHydroxypropyl Tetrahydropyrantriol
Skin ConditioningNiacinamide
SmoothingAlcohol Denat.
AntimicrobialDimethicone
EmollientButylene Glycol
HumectantPropylene Glycol
HumectantBetaine
HumectantCoco-Caprylate/Caprate
EmollientSqualane
EmollientCaprylyl Methicone
Skin ConditioningAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Hydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid
BufferingInonotus Obliquus Extract
Skin ConditioningAdenosine
Skin ConditioningCapryloyl Glycine
CleansingMenthoxypropanediol
MaskingMethyldihydrojasmonate
MaskingPalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningSodium Hydroxide
BufferingTetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
Tocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingAluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate
AbsorbentCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientCetearyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingSodium Lactate
BufferingT-Butyl Alcohol
PerfumingDimethiconol
EmollientStearyl Dimethicone
EmollientChlorphenesin
AntimicrobialPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeWater, Glycerin, Hydroxypropyl Tetrahydropyrantriol, Niacinamide, Alcohol Denat., Dimethicone, Butylene Glycol, Propylene Glycol, Betaine, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Squalane, Caprylyl Methicone, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Hydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid, Inonotus Obliquus Extract, Adenosine, Capryloyl Glycine, Menthoxypropanediol, Methyldihydrojasmonate, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Sodium Hydroxide, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate, Carbomer, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Glucoside, Polysorbate 20, Sodium Lactate, T-Butyl Alcohol, Dimethiconol, Stearyl Dimethicone, Chlorphenesin, Phenoxyethanol
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantDicaprylyl Ether
EmollientButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningHydroxypropyl Tetrahydropyrantriol
Skin ConditioningIsononyl Isononanoate
EmollientPropylene Glycol
HumectantIsopropyl Isostearate
EmollientCetyl Alcohol
EmollientDimethicone
EmollientBehenyl Alcohol
EmollientCandelilla Cera
EmollientEuphorbia Cerifera Cera
AstringentGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientStearic Acid
CleansingHydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid
BufferingPalmitic Acid
EmollientPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientCitric Acid
BufferingCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingCapryloyl Salicylic Acid
ExfoliatingSodium Hydroxide
BufferingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientPEG-100 Stearate
SurfactantVigna Aconitifolia Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingCetearyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingSodium Cocoyl Glutamate
CleansingSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantDisodium EDTA
Pentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningJasminum Officinale Flower Extract
MaskingMyristic Acid
CleansingRosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil
MaskingAdenosine
Skin ConditioningInonotus Obliquus Extract
Skin ConditioningLimonene
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingPelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil
MaskingLavandula Angustifolia Oil
MaskingRosa Damascena Flower Oil
MaskingWater, Glycerin, Dicaprylyl Ether, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Hydroxypropyl Tetrahydropyrantriol, Isononyl Isononanoate, Propylene Glycol, Isopropyl Isostearate, Cetyl Alcohol, Dimethicone, Behenyl Alcohol, Candelilla Cera, Euphorbia Cerifera Cera, Glyceryl Stearate, Stearic Acid, Hydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid, Palmitic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Citric Acid, Carbomer, Capryloyl Salicylic Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Caprylyl Glycol, PEG-100 Stearate, Vigna Aconitifolia Seed Extract, Tocopherol, Xanthan Gum, Cetearyl Glucoside, Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Disodium EDTA, Pentylene Glycol, Jasminum Officinale Flower Extract, Myristic Acid, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil, Adenosine, Inonotus Obliquus Extract, Limonene, Linalool, Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Rosa Damascena Flower Oil
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Learn more about AdenosineCarbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.
Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.
It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.
Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.
A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.
Learn more about CarbomerCetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholCetearyl Glucoside is a sugar-based emulsifier. It is usually made by combining cetearyl alcohol and glucose.
Belonging to the aklyl polyglucoside (APG) family, Cetearyl Glucoside has a sugar "head" that loves water and a fatty "tail" that loves oil. This means it can shuffle oil and water into a stable and smooth emulsion.
Typical use levels are between 1-5% and this ingredient is considered to be non-irritating by the CIR Expert Panel Review.
Once applied, your skin's glucoside hydrolases breaks it down to the parent fatty alcohol and glucose. This is why this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl GlucosideDimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Learn more about DimethiconeGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinWe don't have a description for Hydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid yet.
This ingredient is often marketed as Pro-Xylane. It was developed by L'Oreal in 2006 and comes from xylose, a natural sugar extracted from beech wood.
In L'Oreal's published chemistry work, this ingredient was identified as a strong activator of sulfated glycosaminoglycan (GAG) biosynthesis.
This ingredient helped skin make more of its own natural “water-holding” molecules (called GAGs) in lab studies and skin models, which are important for keeping skin plump and hydrated. It also supported proteins that help anchor and support the skin’s layers.
Most human studies look at full skincare formulas rather than the ingredient on its own.
In one 12-week study, a facial serum containing Pro-Xylane was linked to improvements in skin hydration, firmness, and the appearance of sun-damaged skin.
In a more recent study, a product with hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol plus niacinamide was used after laser treatments and showed visible improvements in fine lines, wrinkles, and overall skin appearance within about 8 weeks, along with signs that the skin was calming and repairing itself.
Learn more about Hydroxypropyl TetrahydropyrantriolThis ingredient is also known as the chaga mushroom. It is a fungus that grows on birch trees.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Learn more about PhenoxyethanolPropylene Glycol is a synthetic, colorless, odorless liquid that has been a staple in cosmetics for decades. It is a skin conditioning agent, humectant, and solvent.
As a humectant, it draw water to the skin to reduce flaking and restore suppleness. It's also a solvent that helps dissolve other actives and keeps formulas stable across temperature changes.
The CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be nontoxic and clinical studies show no sensitization at cosmetic use concentrations.
True allergic reactions are quite rare: a 15-year retrospective study of 6,751 patients found only 0.31% had a positive reaction (and less than half were considered clinically relevant).
It seemed that when sensitization does occur, it's most commonly linked to topical medication (like corticosteroids) and not cosmetics. Allergic contact dermatitis also appears largely limited to individuals with underlying skin conditions.
Overall, propylene glycol is a well-studied ingredient that most people can tolerate without issue.
Learn more about Propylene GlycolSodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.
In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.
Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.
"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.
Learn more about Sodium HydroxideWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water