Fenty Beauty Instant Reset Brightening Overnight Recovery Gel-cream With Niacinamide + Kalahari Melon Oil Versus Glow Recipe Watermelon Glow AHA Night Treatment
This brightening night moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Citrullus Lanatus Seed Oil to brighten dull-looking skin and hydrate skin.
This smoothing overnight mask is formulated around Niacinamide and Glycolic Acid to refine skin texture and brighten dull-looking skin.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingDicaprylyl Carbonate
EmollientGlycereth-26
HumectantNiacinamide
SmoothingHyaluronic Acid
HumectantSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantPanthenol
Skin ConditioningTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantCitrullus Lanatus Seed Oil
EmollientBackhousia Citriodora Leaf Extract
AstringentCereus Grandiflorus Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningHovenia Dulcis Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningAdansonia Digitata Seed Oil
EmollientAdansonia Digitata Fruit Extract
EmollientCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialAloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Skin ConditioningSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientTocopherol
AntioxidantPhospholipids
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Jojoba Esters
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingGlyceryl Caprylate
EmollientGlyceryl Undecylenate
EmollientPolyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
EmulsifyingHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingPentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
AntioxidantPolysorbate 60
EmulsifyingSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingSodium Phytate
Xanthan Gum
EmulsifyingCitric Acid
BufferingLeuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
AntimicrobialHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantPropanediol
SolventButylene Glycol
HumectantEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeParfum
MaskingBenzyl Salicylate
PerfumingHexyl Cinnamal
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingLimonene
PerfumingCI 14700
Cosmetic ColorantCI 17200
Cosmetic ColorantWater, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Glycereth-26, Niacinamide, Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Panthenol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Citrullus Lanatus Seed Oil, Backhousia Citriodora Leaf Extract, Cereus Grandiflorus Flower Extract, Hovenia Dulcis Fruit Extract, Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil, Adansonia Digitata Fruit Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Tocopherol, Phospholipids, Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters, Cetearyl Glucoside, Glyceryl Caprylate, Glyceryl Undecylenate, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Cetearyl Alcohol, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Polysorbate 60, Sorbitan Isostearate, Sodium Phytate, Xanthan Gum, Citric Acid, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Hydroxyacetophenone, Propanediol, Butylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Parfum, Benzyl Salicylate, Hexyl Cinnamal, Linalool, Limonene, CI 14700, CI 17200
Water
Skin ConditioningPropanediol
SolventC9-12 Alkane
SolventGlycerin
HumectantNiacinamide
SmoothingCitrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningMaris Aqua
HumectantGlycolic Acid
BufferingLactic Acid
BufferingSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantChenopodium Quinoa Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningLactobacillus/Watermelon Fruit Ferment Extract
Skin ConditioningLens Esculenta Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningPyrus Malus Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningLeuconostoc Ferment Filtrate
AntimicrobialMelia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningMoringa Oleifera Seed Oil
EmollientLeuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
AntimicrobialEclipta Prostrata Extract
Skin ConditioningSodium PCA
HumectantSaccharide Isomerate
HumectantHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantPolysorbate 60
EmulsifyingHydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Caprylyl Glycol
Emollient1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientSodium Magnesium Silicate
Sodium Lactate
BufferingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingSodium Citrate
BufferingDisodium Phosphate
BufferingSodium Phosphate
BufferingCoco-Caprylate/Caprate
EmollientPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeSodium Benzoate
MaskingCitric Acid
BufferingSodium Hydroxide
BufferingParfum
MaskingWater, Propanediol, C9-12 Alkane, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Citrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract, Maris Aqua, Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Chenopodium Quinoa Seed Extract, Lactobacillus/Watermelon Fruit Ferment Extract, Lens Esculenta Fruit Extract, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Leuconostoc Ferment Filtrate, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Eclipta Prostrata Extract, Sodium PCA, Saccharide Isomerate, Hydroxyacetophenone, Polysorbate 60, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Caprylyl Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Sodium Magnesium Silicate, Sodium Lactate, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Citrate, Disodium Phosphate, Sodium Phosphate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Citric Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Parfum
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholCitric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Learn more about Citric AcidGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHydroxyacetophenone is a small phenolic molecule that earns its place in a formulas as an antioxidant and preservative booster.
As a phenol, it is able to neutralize free radicals to protect both the product and the skin from oxidative stress.
Though it can't kill microbes on its own, it works as a good supporting agent when combined with other preservatives like Phenoxyethanol or 1,2-Hexanediol.
This ingredient naturally occurs as piceol in Norwegian spruce needles (~0.4-1.1% dry weight and in cloudberries). Though the cosmetic-grade material is synthesized for purity and consistency.
You'll usually see it used at low levels and suppliers recommend up to 1% added to a water phase.
Safety testing was done at concentrations like 0.05% in SPF products and 0.5% in a Human Repeated Insult Patch Test. The safety evidence is assuring; this ingredient is safe for cosmetics in current use and also holds safety status as a food flavoring as well.
An honest caveat: the "soothing" and "anti-inflammatory" claims come mostly from supplier marketing rather than published clinical trials. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review's own literature search found no useful efficacy studies on this ingredient.
So the antioxidant and preservative-boosting roles are the well supported ones while the calming benefit is plausible but thinly evidenced.
Overall, this is a well-tolerated, low-irritation multitasker that quietly helps a formula stay fresh and stable.
Learn more about HydroxyacetophenoneLeuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate is a natural preservative. It comes from fermenting radish roots with a bacteria called leuconostoc. The trade name for this ingredient is Leucidal.
Leuconostoc comes from lactic acid.
This ingredient has antimicrobial properties and helps prevent the growth of bacteria in a product.
Leuconostoc is used to make the traditional Korean side-dish, kimchi. It is also used to make sourdough bread (both incredibly yummy foods).
Learn more about Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment FiltrateNiacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Learn more about NiacinamideParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumPolysorbate 60 is used to help stabilize products. It is a surfactant and emulsifier. These properties help keep ingredients together in a product. Surfactants help reduce surface tension between ingredients with different states, such as liquids and solids. Emulsifiers help prevent oils and waters from separating.
Polysorbate 60 is sorbitol-based and created from the ethoxylation of sorbitan. Ethoxylation is a chemical reaction used to add ethylene oxide. Sorbitan is a the dehydrated version of sorbitol, a sugar found in fruits.
In this case, the 60 comes from reacting 60 units of ethylene oxide with sorbitan.
Polysorbates are commonly used in medicine and foods.
Learn more about Polysorbate 60Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Learn more about PropanediolSodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium HyaluronateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum