Charlotte Tilbury Charlotte's Magic Serum Crystal Elixir Versus Lancôme Advanced Génifique Youth Activating Concentrate
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningNiacinamide
SmoothingGlycereth-26
HumectantTriheptanoin
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantMethyl Gluceth-20
HumectantSilica
AbrasiveCamellia Oleifera Seed Oil
Skin ConditioningQuartz Powder
AbrasiveAmethyst Powder
AbrasiveRuby Powder
Skin ConditioningGold
Cosmetic ColorantButyrospermum Parkii Oil
EmollientPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeDimethyl Isosorbide
SolventPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientButylene Glycol
HumectantOctyldodecyl Oleate
EmollientBenzyl Alcohol
PerfumingMyrothamnus Flabellifolia Leaf Extract
EmollientPEG-100 Stearate
Octyldodecyl Stearoyl Stearate
EmollientSchisandra Chinensis Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingSodium Gluconate
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantChondrus Crispus Extract
Skin ConditioningSodium Hydroxide
BufferingSaussurea Involucrata Callus Extract
AntioxidantTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantAloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Skin ConditioningPolyglutamic Acid
Skin ConditioningPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningSorbitol
HumectantMagnesium Aspartate
Skin ConditioningZinc Gluconate
Skin ConditioningRosa Canina Fruit Extract
AstringentPolyhydroxystearic Acid
EmulsifyingOctyldodecanol
EmollientSodium Benzoate
MaskingPropanediol
SolventBiosaccharide Gum-4
Skin ConditioningXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingParfum
MaskingPlumeria Alba Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningPlumeria Rubra Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningLithothamnion Calcareum Extract
Skin ConditioningLactic Acid
BufferingPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientCopper Gluconate
Skin ConditioningHydrated Silica
Abrasive1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningCitric Acid
BufferingSolanum Tuberosum Pulp Extract
SmoothingAcetyl Tetrapeptide-11
Skin ConditioningAcetyl Tetrapeptide-9
Skin ConditioningDehydroacetic Acid
PreservativeAscorbic Acid
AntioxidantGlutathione
Limonene
PerfumingGeraniol
PerfumingCitronellol
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingCitral
PerfumingWater, Niacinamide, Glycereth-26, Triheptanoin, Glycerin, Methyl Gluceth-20, Silica, Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil, Quartz Powder, Amethyst Powder, Ruby Powder, Gold, Butyrospermum Parkii Oil, Phenoxyethanol, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Polysorbate 20, Glyceryl Stearate, Butylene Glycol, Octyldodecyl Oleate, Benzyl Alcohol, Myrothamnus Flabellifolia Leaf Extract, PEG-100 Stearate, Octyldodecyl Stearoyl Stearate, Schisandra Chinensis Fruit Extract, Carbomer, Sodium Gluconate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Chondrus Crispus Extract, Sodium Hydroxide, Saussurea Involucrata Callus Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Polyglutamic Acid, Pentylene Glycol, Sorbitol, Magnesium Aspartate, Zinc Gluconate, Rosa Canina Fruit Extract, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Octyldodecanol, Sodium Benzoate, Propanediol, Biosaccharide Gum-4, Xanthan Gum, Parfum, Plumeria Alba Flower Extract, Plumeria Rubra Flower Extract, Lithothamnion Calcareum Extract, Lactic Acid, Potassium Sorbate, Caprylyl Glycol, Copper Gluconate, Hydrated Silica, 1,2-Hexanediol, Citric Acid, Solanum Tuberosum Pulp Extract, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9, Dehydroacetic Acid, Ascorbic Acid, Glutathione, Limonene, Geraniol, Citronellol, Linalool, Citral
Water
Skin ConditioningBifida Ferment Lysate
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantAlcohol Denat.
AntimicrobialDimethicone
EmollientHydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid
BufferingAscorbyl Glucoside
AntioxidantSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantSodium Hydroxide
BufferingSodium Benzoate
MaskingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeAdenosine
Skin ConditioningFaex Extract
Skin ConditioningPEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate
EmulsifyingPEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
EmulsifyingSalicyloyl Phytosphingosine
Skin ConditioningAmmonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Emulsion StabilisingLimonene
PerfumingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientDisodium EDTA
Octyldodecanol
EmollientCitronellol
PerfumingParfum
MaskingWater, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Glycerin, Alcohol Denat., Dimethicone, Hydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Benzoate, Phenoxyethanol, Adenosine, Faex Extract, PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Salicyloyl Phytosphingosine, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Limonene, Xanthan Gum, Caprylyl Glycol, Disodium EDTA, Octyldodecanol, Citronellol, Parfum
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid or alcohol, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Learn more about Caprylyl GlycolCitronellol is used to add fragrance/parfum to a product. It is often derived from plants such as roses. In fact, it can be found in many essential oils including geranium, lavender, neroli, and more. The scent of Citronellol is often described as "fresh, grassy, and citrus-like".
Since the Citronellol molecule is already unstable, Citronellol becomes irritating on the skin when exposed to air.
Citronellol is a modified terpene. Terpenes are unsaturated hydrocarbons found in plants. They make up the primary part of essential oils.
Citronellol is not able to be absorbed into deeper layers of the skin. It has low permeability,
Citronellol is also a natural insect repellent.
Learn more about CitronellolGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinLimonene is a fragrance that adds scent and taste to a formulation.
It's found in the peel oil of citrus fruits and other plants such as lavender and eucalyptus. The scent of limonene is generally described as "sweet citrus".
Limonene acts as an antioxidant, meaning it helps neutralize free radicals.
When exposed to air, oxidized limonene may sensitize the skin. Because of this, limonene is often avoided by people with sensitive skin.
The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.
Learn more about LimoneneOctyldodecanol is a fatty alcohol sourced from plant oils like coconut or palm (or made synthetically).
It is:
You'll likely see this in many BHA products because this is the go-to solvent for salicylic acid.
This ingredient is typically used at levels between 2-20%.
Regarding fungal acne:
In 2019, this ingredient was tested against multiple Malassezia species (the yeast that causes fungal acne) and showed no growth.
Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumPhenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.
Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.
Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.
It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.
Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.
We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.
Learn more about Sodium BenzoateSodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium HyaluronateSodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.
In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.
Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.
"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.
Learn more about Sodium HydroxideWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum