BrioGeo Scalp Revival Charcoal + Coconut Oil Micro-Exfoliating Shampoo Versus NatureLab Tokyo Perfect Clean 2-In-1 Scalp Scrub & Clarifying Shampoo
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningSodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate
CleansingCocos Nucifera Oil
MaskingGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantMicrocrystalline Cellulose
AbsorbentCocamidopropyl Betaine
CleansingSodium Methyl Oleoyl Taurate
CleansingSodium Cocoyl Isethionate
CleansingHydrogenated Castor Oil
EmollientLithium Magnesium Sodium Silicate
AbsorbentPanthenol
Skin ConditioningXylitylglucoside
HumectantCharcoal Powder
AbrasiveMelaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil
AntioxidantMentha Piperita Oil
MaskingZingiber Officinale Root Oil
MaskingMentha Viridis Leaf Oil
AstringentAnhydroxylitol
HumectantBisabolol
AntioxidantMenthyl Lactate
MaskingXylitol
HumectantPolyquaternium-7
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
AntioxidantDehydroacetic Acid
PreservativeBenzyl Alcohol
PerfumingParfum
MaskingCitric Acid
BufferingSodium Hydroxide
BufferingWater, Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Glyceryl Stearate, Glycerin, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Sodium Methyl Oleoyl Taurate, Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Lithium Magnesium Sodium Silicate, Panthenol, Xylitylglucoside, Charcoal Powder, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil, Mentha Piperita Oil, Zingiber Officinale Root Oil, Mentha Viridis Leaf Oil, Anhydroxylitol, Bisabolol, Menthyl Lactate, Xylitol, Polyquaternium-7, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Dehydroacetic Acid, Benzyl Alcohol, Parfum, Citric Acid, Sodium Hydroxide
Sucrose
HumectantGlycerin
HumectantSodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate
CleansingCocamide Mea
EmulsifyingGlycol Distearate
EmollientWater
Skin ConditioningRicinus Communis Seed Oil
MaskingSaccharomyces/Rice Extract Ferment Filtrate
Skin ConditioningButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningCocos Nucifera Oil
MaskingMelaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil
AntioxidantVitis Vinifera Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningArgania Spinosa Callus Culture Extract
Skin ConditioningMalus Domestica Fruit Cell Culture Extract
Skin ConditioningGlutamic Acid
HumectantSodium PCA
HumectantHydrolyzed Coix Lacryma-Jobi Ma-Yuen Seed
HumectantPlatinum Powder
AbrasiveTrigonella Foenum-Graecum Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride
Skin ConditioningLocust Bean Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantHydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate
Prunus Domestica Seed Extract
EmollientArgania Spinosa Kernel Oil
EmollientLupinus Albus Seed Oil
Skin ConditioningMangifera Indica Seed Oil
EmollientTheobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter
Skin ConditioningAdansonia Digitata Seed Oil
EmollientCarapa Guaianensis Seed Oil
Skin ConditioningSclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil
HumectantArgan Oil Polyglyceryl-6 Esters
EmollientSodium Glycinate
Skin ConditioningPropanediol
SolventCocamidopropyl Betaine
CleansingButylene Glycol
HumectantGuar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride
Skin ConditioningIsomalt
HumectantXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingPolysorbate 80
EmulsifyingCitric Acid
BufferingSodium Citrate
BufferingTrisodium Phosphate
BufferingSodium Chloride
MaskingLecithin
EmollientBHT
AntioxidantSodium Gluconate
Skin ConditioningPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeSodium Benzoate
MaskingParfum
MaskingLinalool
PerfumingSucrose, Glycerin, Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate, Cocamide Mea, Glycol Distearate, Water, Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, Saccharomyces/Rice Extract Ferment Filtrate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil, Vitis Vinifera Fruit Extract, Argania Spinosa Callus Culture Extract, Malus Domestica Fruit Cell Culture Extract, Glutamic Acid, Sodium PCA, Hydrolyzed Coix Lacryma-Jobi Ma-Yuen Seed, Platinum Powder, Trigonella Foenum-Graecum Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Locust Bean Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Prunus Domestica Seed Extract, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Lupinus Albus Seed Oil, Mangifera Indica Seed Oil, Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter, Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil, Carapa Guaianensis Seed Oil, Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil, Argan Oil Polyglyceryl-6 Esters, Sodium Glycinate, Propanediol, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Butylene Glycol, Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Isomalt, Xanthan Gum, Polysorbate 80, Citric Acid, Sodium Citrate, Trisodium Phosphate, Sodium Chloride, Lecithin, BHT, Sodium Gluconate, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Benzoate, Parfum, Linalool
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Learn more about Citric AcidCocamidopropyl Betaine is a fatty acid created by mixing similar compounds in coconut oil and dimethylaminopropylamine, a compound with two amino groups.
This ingredient is a surfactant and cleanser. It helps gather the dirt, pollutants, and other impurities in your skin to be washed away. It also helps thicken a product and make the texture more creamy.
Being created from coconut oil means Cocamidopropyl Betaine is hydrating for the skin.
While Cocamidopropyl Betaine was believed to be an allergen, a study from 2012 disproved this. It found two compounds in unpure Cocamidopropyl Betaine to be the irritants: aminoamide and 3-dimethylaminopropylamine. High-grade and pure Cocamidopropyl Betaine did not induce allergic reactions during this study.
Learn more about Cocamidopropyl BetaineThis ingredient is also known as coconut oil. It is a plant-derived ingredient with skin conditioning properties.
The fatty acid profile of coconut oil is mostly lauric acid (~54%), followed by capric, caprylic, palmitic, and myristic acids. This profile allows it to penetrate easily into skin, moisturize, and improve dry skin.
A double-blind study confirmed that extra virgin coconut oil is as effective as mineral oil for treating very dry skin. Another study found it outperformed mineral oil for mild to moderate atopic dermatitis in children.
Another study from 2018 found that virgin coconut oil can soothe inflammation and boost key skin barrier proteins. Just know this evidence is still only from lab settings and not human trials.
It has also been shown to reduce Staphylococcus aureus, a bacteria that commonly overgrows in people with eczema.
Clinical testing shows very minimal skin irritation and no evidence of sensitization or phototoxicity.
Coconut oil gets flagged as a "fragrance" because it has a natural mild scent (not because it's a synthetic perfume). The European Cosmetic ingredient database also lists "perfuming" as a function of this ingredient.
Just so you know, the term "fragrance" is completely unregulated. Some brands still use botanical extracts or essential oils in their "fragrance-free" formulas, but regulatory databases technically classify these under "fragrance".
Coconut oil has a tiny and useless bit of natural SPF. Early lab studies clocked it around SPF 7-8 but a more recent study found the real number closer to SPF 1.2. It also offers no meaningful UVA protection (SPF only overs UVB rays).
The comedogenic rating of 4/5 means it has a high potential to clog pores; but it's worth noting that comedogenicity is highly individual and ratings cannot predict how an overall formula will behave on skin.
Since lauric acid is the dominant fatty acid, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast feeds on fatty acids with carbon chain lengths between 11-24, and lauric acid falls within these lengths (C12).
Learn more about Cocos Nucifera OilGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinThis ingredient is also known as tea tree oil. It has antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties.
Tea tree oil is a complex lipophilic (fat-loving) oil that contains around 100 compounds with terpinen-4-ol being the most abundant (~40%).
Terpinen-4-ol is responsible for tea tree oil's broad-spectrum antimicrobial activity and makes it a well-researched option for acne.
Clinical studies support 5% tea tree oil as an effective topical treatment for mild to moderate acne. A study with 124 patients compared 5% tea tree oil gel to 5% benzoyl peroxide and both reduced acne (though tea tree oil worked more slowly).
Besides acne, it is also seen in anti-dandruff shampoos and scalp treatments for it's antimicrobial and anti-seborrheic properties.
Safety-wise, the allergic potential of low concentrations on healthy skin is considered low. However, oxidized (old or improperly stored) tea tree oil is a stronger sensitizer.
Irritation can also occur if using the undiluted oil on skin; it's best to use this ingredient as part of a carefully crafted cosmetic formula. This is because regulations require tea tree oil in cosmetics to be stabilized to prevent degradation.
This ingredient has been deemed safe up to 2% in shampoo, 1% in cleansers, and 0.1% in face cream by the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS).
There is some lab evidence that tea tree oil is antifungal against Malassezia, but it is a supportive option at best and not a replacement for proven antifungal treatments.
Learn more about Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf OilParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water