What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantButylene Glycol
HumectantCetyl Ethylhexanoate
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingPropanediol
SolventPolyglyceryl-6 Stearate
Emollient1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningNiacinamide
SmoothingCyclohexasiloxane
EmollientCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientTriethylhexanoin
MaskingSynthetic Beeswax
Emulsion StabilisingGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientPhytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate
Skin ConditioningDimethyl Isosorbide
SolventAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Polyglyceryl-6 Behenate
Emulsion StabilisingPrunus Serotina Fruit Extract
MaskingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningHydroxypinacolone Retinoate
Skin ConditioningAdenosine
Skin ConditioningBenzotriazolyl Dodecyl P-Cresol
UV AbsorberEucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil
PerfumingCalendula Officinalis Flower Extract
MaskingBakuchiol
AntimicrobialGlycine Soja Oil
EmollientGlutathione
Retinol
Skin ConditioningSodium Guaiazulene Sulfonate
Disodium EDTA
Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Propanediol, Polyglyceryl-6 Stearate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Cyclohexasiloxane, Cetearyl Alcohol, Triethylhexanoin, Synthetic Beeswax, Glyceryl Stearate, Phytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Polyglyceryl-6 Behenate, Prunus Serotina Fruit Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, Adenosine, Benzotriazolyl Dodecyl P-Cresol, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Bakuchiol, Glycine Soja Oil, Glutathione, Retinol, Sodium Guaiazulene Sulfonate, Disodium EDTA
Water
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingGlycerin
HumectantCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientPropanediol
SolventPentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate
EmollientButylene Glycol
HumectantHydrangea Macrophylla Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningBakuchiol
AntimicrobialHyaluronic Acid
HumectantCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantRetinol
Skin ConditioningAllantoin
Skin ConditioningArachidyl Alcohol
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientTocopherol
AntioxidantBehenyl Alcohol
EmollientCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingSodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingTromethamine
BufferingCetearyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientPolyisobutene
Arachidyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingDipotassium Glycyrrhizate
HumectantPolyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Skin ConditioningAllium Sativum Bulb Extract
Skin ConditioningGlyceryl Stearate Se
EmulsifyingSorbitan Stearate
Emulsifying1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningAdenosine
Skin ConditioningDisodium EDTA
Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside
CleansingSorbitan Oleate
EmulsifyingRutin
AntioxidantCurcuma Longa Root Extract
MaskingVitis Vinifera Vine Extract
Skin ConditioningSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingPaeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract
Skin ProtectingGlucose
HumectantSclerotium Gum
Emulsion StabilisingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingWater, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Propanediol, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Butylene Glycol, Hydrangea Macrophylla Leaf Extract, Bakuchiol, Hyaluronic Acid, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Retinol, Allantoin, Arachidyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Tocopherol, Behenyl Alcohol, Carbomer, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Tromethamine, Cetearyl Glucoside, Caprylyl Glycol, Polyisobutene, Arachidyl Glucoside, Hydroxyacetophenone, Pentylene Glycol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Allium Sativum Bulb Extract, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Sorbitan Stearate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Disodium EDTA, Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, Sorbitan Oleate, Rutin, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Vitis Vinifera Vine Extract, Sorbitan Isostearate, Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract, Glucose, Sclerotium Gum, Xanthan Gum
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.Â
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservativesÂ
Adenosine is in every living organism. It is one of four components in nucleic acids that helps store our DNA.
Adenosine has many benefits when used. These benefits include hydrating the skin, smoothing skin, and reducing wrinkles. Once applied, adenosine increases collagen production. It also helps with improving firmness and tissue repair.
Studies have found adenosine may also help with wound healing.
In skincare products, Adenosine is usually derived from yeast.
Learn more about AdenosineBakuchiol is a plant-derived antioxidant from the seeds of the Psoralea corylifolia plant. It has antimicrobial, emollient, skin conditioning, and antioxidant properties.
You'll likely see it called a "retinol replacement" but the two are technically not related. This is because bakuchiol is able to flip many of the same switches in your skin cells to tell them to:
1) produce more collagen (type I, III, and IV)
2) activate the same genes retinoids do
Unlike retinoids, this ingredient will not increase photosensitivity and is safe to use during pregnancy (but please still check in with your doctor!).
The flagship clinical trial from Dhaliwal et al. 2019 found 0.5% bakuchiol (twice daily) and 0.5% retinol (once daily) reduced wrinkles and hyperpigmentation equally, but bakuchiol had significantly less irritation.
Systematic reviews also back this up:
Bakuchiol is comparable to retinol for photoaging but with better tolerability. It also has mild antibacterial properties against Cutibacterium acnes and antifungal activity in vitro against Candida and dermatophytes.
The reason bakuchiol works well is due to its structure; it is a meroterpene phenol, or a hybrid molecule. The phenol half acts as an antioxidant while the terpene half is fat-loving. This helps the molecule slip through the skin barrier.
This ingredient is usually used between 0.5-2%. Only one case of contact dermatitis has ever been reported for this ingredient.
Learn more about BakuchiolButylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolThis ingredient is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping the skin prevent moisture loss.
It helps thicken a product's formula and makes it easier to spread by dissolving clumping compounds.
Caprylic Triglyceride is made by combining glycerin with coconut oil, forming a clear liquid. Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. It is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid. In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Be sure to patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearatePropanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.Â
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Learn more about PropanediolRetinol is a gold-standard ingredient for anti-aging. It is a form of Vitamin A and belongs to the class of retinoids that also includes tretinoin.
Why is retinol famous?
It has the most scientific studies backing up its skin benefits out of all the non-prescription ingredients.
Retinol is proven to:
This is why retinol is effective at removing wrinkles, fading dark spots, treating acne, and reducing the appearance of pores.
Studies show retinol is less effective when exposed to UV. Be sure to look for appropriate packaging to keep your retinol potent (similar to Vitamin C).
Using retinol or any retinoids will increase sun-sensitivity in the first few months. Though studies show retinoids increase your skin's natural SPF with continuous use, it is best to always wear sunscreen and sun-protection.
We recommend speaking with a medical professional about using this ingredient during pregnancy.
Retinol may cause irritation in some people, so be sure to patch test. Experts recommend 'ramping up' retinol use: start using this ingredient once a week and work up to using it daily.
Read about Tretinoin
Learn more about RetinolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water