What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningPropanediol
SolventButylene Glycol
HumectantHydrogenated Polydecene
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingDipentaerythrityl Hexahydroxystearate/Hexastearate/Hexarosinate
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientButylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate
EmollientCaffeine 2%
Skin ConditioningNiacinamide
SmoothingPentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate
EmollientPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningC12-16 Alcohols
EmollientMethyl Trimethicone
Skin Conditioning1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningJojoba Esters
EmollientTheobroma Cacao Extract
Skin ConditioningVincetoxicum Atratum Extract
Skin ConditioningAlthaea Rosea Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningAnastatica Hierochuntica Extract
AstringentLactobacillus Ferment
Skin ConditioningSoluble Collagen
HumectantPanthenol
Skin ConditioningPalmitic Acid
EmollientHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingSodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingHydrogenated Rice Bran Oil
Skin ConditioningHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingPolyisobutene
Polymethylsilsesquioxane
Hydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantSynthetic Beeswax
Emulsion StabilisingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningAdenosine
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl/Capryl Glucoside
CleansingSorbitan Oleate
EmulsifyingDextrin
AbsorbentSodium Phytate
Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate
Skin ConditioningGlyceryl Glucoside
HumectantTocopherol
AntioxidantCopper Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningAcetyl Hexapeptide-8
HumectantXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingWater, Propanediol, Butylene Glycol, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Dipentaerythrityl Hexahydroxystearate/Hexastearate/Hexarosinate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Caffeine 2%, Niacinamide, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Pentylene Glycol, C12-16 Alcohols, Methyl Trimethicone, 1,2-Hexanediol, Jojoba Esters, Theobroma Cacao Extract, Vincetoxicum Atratum Extract, Althaea Rosea Flower Extract, Anastatica Hierochuntica Extract, Lactobacillus Ferment, Soluble Collagen, Panthenol, Palmitic Acid, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Hydrogenated Rice Bran Oil, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Polyisobutene, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Hydroxyacetophenone, Synthetic Beeswax, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, Sorbitan Oleate, Dextrin, Sodium Phytate, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, Glyceryl Glucoside, Tocopherol, Copper Tripeptide-1, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Xanthan Gum
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantCetyl Ethylhexanoate
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientPEG-100 Stearate
SurfactantNiacinamide
SmoothingDipropylene Glycol
HumectantCeramide AP
Skin Conditioning1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningBetaine
HumectantMacadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil
Skin ConditioningButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate
EmollientCI 19140
Cosmetic ColorantSorbitan Stearate
EmulsifyingPolysorbate 60
EmulsifyingPolyglutamic Acid
Skin ConditioningCI 15985
Cosmetic ColorantArginine
MaskingAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Carbomer
Emulsion StabilisingSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientSodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
HumectantHydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans
HumectantHydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
HumectantHyaluronic Acid
HumectantEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningPanthenol
Skin ConditioningPunica Granatum Fruit Extract
AntioxidantFicus Carica Fruit Extract
HumectantMorus Alba Fruit Extract
AntioxidantGinkgo Biloba Nut Extract
Skin ConditioningCitrus Reticulata Fruit Extract
Skin ProtectingSasa Quelpaertensis Extract
Skin ConditioningPaeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract
Skin ProtectingPortulaca Oleracea Extract
Skin ConditioningNelumbo Nucifera Callus Culture Extract
AntimicrobialAllantoin
Skin ConditioningAdenosine
Skin ConditioningXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantDisodium EDTA
Ascorbic Acid
AntioxidantAcetyl Hexapeptide-8
HumectantPalmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Skin ConditioningAlanine/Histidine/Lysine Polypeptide Copper Hcl
Skin ConditioningCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningWater, Glycerin, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Niacinamide, Dipropylene Glycol, Ceramide AP, 1,2-Hexanediol, Betaine, Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, CI 19140, Sorbitan Stearate, Polysorbate 60, Polyglutamic Acid, CI 15985, Arginine, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Carbomer, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Hyaluronic Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Panthenol, Punica Granatum Fruit Extract, Ficus Carica Fruit Extract, Morus Alba Fruit Extract, Ginkgo Biloba Nut Extract, Citrus Reticulata Fruit Extract, Sasa Quelpaertensis Extract, Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Nelumbo Nucifera Callus Culture Extract, Allantoin, Adenosine, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Disodium EDTA, Ascorbic Acid, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Alanine/Histidine/Lysine Polypeptide Copper Hcl, Ceramide NP
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.Â
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservativesÂ
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (also known as Argireline) is a synthetic hexapeptide that is often called a "topical Botox alternative".
It works by mimicking how Botox relaxes muscles; it interferes with the signaling process that tells your facial muscles to contract. This can help soften expression lines like forehead wrinkles or crow's feet over time.
The comparison to Botox does have limits because the molecule is water-loving and relatively large.
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 has a hard time absorbing deeply enough through the skin's outer barrier to actually reach the muscles.
So whether it truly works the way Botox does at a biological level is still up for debate, but early clinical outcomes are fairly encouraging.
A 12 week human study of a multi-ingredient regimen containing this ingredient saw:
While some studies have observed improvements in wrinkle appearance, it is important to note that more consistent results are seen in multi-ingredient formulations (vs just Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 alone).
Some research studies also used higher concentrations (up to 10%) while this ingredient is usually found in concentrations up to 0.005% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about Acetyl Hexapeptide-8Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Learn more about AdenosineThis is a lightweight diester (caprylic/capric acid + butylene glycol) with emollient and skin conditioning properties.
According to a manufacturer, this ingredient can help add a "cushiony" oil phase without making it heavy.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinNiacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Learn more about NiacinamidePanthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Learn more about PanthenolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum