What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Petrolatum
EmollientIsopropyl Palmitate
EmollientPolybutene
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingPentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate
EmollientPolyethylene
AbrasiveMicrocrystalline Wax
Emulsion StabilisingTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningSqualane
EmollientPanthenol
Skin ConditioningDiisostearyl Malate
EmollientAllantoin
Skin ConditioningSorbitan Sesquioleate
EmulsifyingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeHydrogenated Vegetable Oil
EmollientPrunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Skin ConditioningArgania Spinosa Kernel Oil
EmollientSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientCamellia Sinensis Seed Oil
HumectantCamellia Japonica Seed Oil
EmollientOlea Europaea Fruit Oil
MaskingMacadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil
Skin ConditioningStearalkonium Hectorite
Gel FormingPropylene Carbonate
SolventCitrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil
MaskingLimonene
PerfumingMonascus Extract
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Hexapeptide-12
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantWater
Skin ConditioningGlycyrrhetinic Acid
Skin Conditioning1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantHydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
HumectantSodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
HumectantHyaluronic Acid
HumectantPotassium Hyaluronate
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
HumectantPetrolatum, Isopropyl Palmitate, Polybutene, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Polyethylene, Microcrystalline Wax, Tocopheryl Acetate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Squalane, Panthenol, Diisostearyl Malate, Allantoin, Sorbitan Sesquioleate, Phenoxyethanol, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil, Camellia Japonica Seed Oil, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil, Stearalkonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil, Limonene, Monascus Extract, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Tocopherol, Water, Glycyrrhetinic Acid, 1,2-Hexanediol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Hyaluronic Acid, Potassium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
Polyisobutene
Petrolatum
EmollientDiisostearyl Malate
EmollientSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningSorbitan Sesquioleate
EmulsifyingMacadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
EmollientOlea Europaea Fruit Oil
MaskingAdansonia Digitata Seed Oil
EmollientCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningCeramide Ns
Skin ConditioningCeramide As
Skin ConditioningCeramide EOP
Skin ConditioningCeramide AP
Skin ConditioningStearic Acid
CleansingCholesterol
EmollientVinegar
Sodium Hyaluronate
HumectantPanthenol
Skin ConditioningTrehalose
HumectantHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingMicrocrystalline Wax
Emulsion StabilisingSargassum Fusiforme Extract
Skin ProtectingGlycerin
HumectantButylene Glycol
HumectantWater
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningPolyisobutene, Petrolatum, Diisostearyl Malate, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Sorbitan Sesquioleate, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil, Ceramide NP, Ceramide Ns, Ceramide As, Ceramide EOP, Ceramide AP, Stearic Acid, Cholesterol, Vinegar, Sodium Hyaluronate, Panthenol, Trehalose, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Microcrystalline Wax, Sargassum Fusiforme Extract, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, 1,2-Hexanediol
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.Ā
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservativesĀ
This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Learn more about Butyrospermum Parkii ButterCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredientās final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideDiisostearyl Malate is an emollient and most often used in lip products. It comes from isostearyl alcohol, a fatty acid, and malic acid, an AHA.
As an emollient, Diisostearyl Malate helps create a thin film on your skin to trap moisture in. This helps keep your skin soft and smooth.
Microcrystalline Wax is derived from petroleum through a de-oiling process, then highly refined and purified before use in cosmetics.
In skincare formulations, it is used to improve texture and create a smooth, even consistency. It also helps stabilize products by preventing ingredients from separating.
This ingredient is also known as olive oil. It has been used in skincare for centuries and science largely backs up its reputation as a nourishing emollient.
The main components of olive oil are oleic acid (55-83%), linoleic acid (3.5-20%), and palmitic acid (7-20%). Oleic acid promotes skin regeneration and helps regulate inflammatory responses.
Squalene is also naturally present in olive oil and exhibits moisturizing and antioxidant properties.
The polyphenols in olive oil also show anti-aging promise; one clinical study found a measurable improvement in skin appearance after 30 days of topical serum use.
Just be aware that applying olive oil directly to skin can weaken the barrier and cause redness. One study with volunteers found even people without sensitive skin experienced a significant reduction in stratum corneum integrity and induced mild erythema.
It's best to use this ingredient as part of a carefully crafted formula (instead of putting it on skin directly from the bottle).
Because it has a 2-3 on the comedogenic scale, it is a moderate risk for acne-prone skin. However, the overall formulation of a product matters more than a few ingredients with comedogenic ratings.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because of the oleic and palmitic acid content. These fall within the C11-24 fatty acid range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize to grow.
Overall, olive oil is a well-studied and nourishing skincare ingredient.
Learn more about Olea Europaea Fruit OilPanthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Learn more about PanthenolPetrolatum is more commonly known as petroleum jelly. It is created by mixing waxes and mineral oils.
This ingredient is effective at reducing water loss by 99%. This is because it is an occlusive. Occlusives create a hydrophobic barrier on the skin to prevent evaporation. This property makes it great for hydrating dry skin.
Pro tip: Use occlusives, such as this ingredient, on damp skin for the best results.
The quality or origin of petrolatum is only known when disclosed by the brand. Most cosmetic petrolatum has gone through several purification stages.
Another benefit of occlusives is it protects your skin against infection or allergies.
Petrolatum is fungal acne safe. It is a hydrocarbon with no fatty acid structure, so Malassezia cannot metabolize it. In-vitro studies support negligible growth stimulation as well.
It's also worth noting that petrolatum has a comedogenic rating of 0. In updated rabbit ear testing (and in human testing), petrolatum was found to be not comedogenic. This means it didnāt promote comedone formation in standard models.
Learn more about PetrolatumJojoba oil is one of the most well-studied plant-derived ingredients in cosmetics. It is an emollient with a special structure.
Because it is made up of 97-98% wax esters, it closely mirrors the linear monoesters found in human sebum. This makes it skin compatible, non-greasy, and lightweight.
Unlike other plant oils, jojoba wax doesn't easily penetrate skin. It mostly works in the uppermost layers as an emollient. This just means it forms a light barrier on the skin to help retain moisture.
Formulations with jojoba esters up to 90% reduced transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and increased barrier recovery by 81% (outperforming bisabolol at 47%).
Besides barrier support, the science also suggests jojoba to have anti-inflammatory effects and potential applications for skin infections, aging, and wound healing.
Fun fact: Indigenous cultures have used jojoba as a moisturizer and to help treat burns for centuries.
Due to its fatty acid content, Jojoba oil may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Simmondsia Chinensis Seed OilSodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium HyaluronateSorbitan Sesquioleate is derived from sorbitol and oleic acid. It is an emulsifier and prevents ingredients from separating.
Specifically, this ingredient is a water-in-oil emulsifier, meaning it helps water dissolve into oil.
Some studies suggest this ingredient may cause irritation in some people. If you are unsure, it is best to patch test.
This ingredient may not be Malassezia folliculitis, or fungal-acne safe due to the oleic acid. In vitro studies have shown that Oleic Acid is one of the fatty acids that induce rapid Malassezia growth in lab settings.
Learn more about Sorbitan SesquioleateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water