What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingCetyl Ethylhexanoate
EmollientPEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate
EmulsifyingWater
Skin ConditioningBeeswax
Emulsion StabilisingEthylhexyl Palmitate
EmollientCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientSorbitan Olivate
EmulsifyingMyristoyl/Palmitoyl Oxostearamide/Arachamide Mea
Skin ConditioningButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningStearic Acid
CleansingOlea Europaea Fruit Oil
MaskingTrihydroxystearin
Skin ConditioningSorbitan Stearate
EmulsifyingVp/Eicosene Copolymer
Glyceryl Stearate
EmollientTocopherol
AntioxidantPhytosterols
Skin Conditioning1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientMadecassoside
AntioxidantAllantoin
Skin ConditioningPanthenol
Skin ConditioningCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningCitrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil
MaskingLitsea Cubeba Fruit Oil
MaskingThymus Mastichina Flower Oil
Skin ConditioningAnthemis Nobilis Flower Oil
MaskingGlycerin
HumectantSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientCarthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil
MaskingCamellia Oleifera Seed Oil
Skin ConditioningTriticum Vulgare Sprout Extract
Skin ConditioningSpirulina Platensis Extract
Skin ProtectingCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, Water, Beeswax, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Sorbitan Olivate, Myristoyl/Palmitoyl Oxostearamide/Arachamide Mea, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Stearic Acid, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Trihydroxystearin, Sorbitan Stearate, Vp/Eicosene Copolymer, Glyceryl Stearate, Tocopherol, Phytosterols, 1,2-Hexanediol, Xanthan Gum, Caprylyl Glycol, Madecassoside, Allantoin, Panthenol, Ceramide NP, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil, Litsea Cubeba Fruit Oil, Thymus Mastichina Flower Oil, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Oil, Glycerin, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil, Triticum Vulgare Sprout Extract, Spirulina Platensis Extract
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingSorbeth-30 Tetraoleate
EmulsifyingPolyethylene
AbrasivePEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate
EmulsifyingParfum
MaskingGlyceryl Caprylate
EmollientEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantBetula Platyphylla Japonica Juice
Skin ConditioningAnastatica Hierochuntica Extract
AstringentIris Versicolor Extract
EmollientMoringa Oleifera Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningPerilla Frutescens Leaf Extract
MaskingRhododendron Chrysanthum Leaf Extract
MaskingGlycerin
HumectantCarthamus Tinctorius Oleosomes
EmollientWater
Skin ConditioningSqualane
EmollientCetyl Ethylhexanoate
EmollientNeopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate
EmollientHydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine
EmulsifyingAlcohol
AntimicrobialHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingPolyglyceryl-10 Myristate
Skin ConditioningPolyglyceryl-10 Stearate
Skin Conditioning1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientPolyglyceryl-2 Stearate
EmulsifyingStearic Acid
CleansingPanthenol
Skin ConditioningCarthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil
MaskingOenothera Biennis Oil
EmollientSodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
AntioxidantPolyquaternium-51
Skin ConditioningGlyceryl Arachidonate
EmollientGlyceryl Linolenate
EmollientBiotin
AntiseborrhoeicFolic Acid
Skin ConditioningPyridoxine
Skin ConditioningCyanocobalamin
Skin ConditioningEthylhexyl Palmitate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Sorbeth-30 Tetraoleate, Polyethylene, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, Parfum, Glyceryl Caprylate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Betula Platyphylla Japonica Juice, Anastatica Hierochuntica Extract, Iris Versicolor Extract, Moringa Oleifera Seed Extract, Perilla Frutescens Leaf Extract, Rhododendron Chrysanthum Leaf Extract, Glycerin, Carthamus Tinctorius Oleosomes, Water, Squalane, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate, Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine, Alcohol, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate, Stearic Acid, Panthenol, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Oenothera Biennis Oil, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Polyquaternium-51, Glyceryl Arachidonate, Glyceryl Linolenate, Biotin, Folic Acid, Pyridoxine, Cyanocobalamin
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCarthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil comes from the seeds of the safflower plant. It is a skin conditioning agent that helps soften skin and keep it hydrated.
This seed oil has an unusual fatty acid profile: it is one of the highest linoleic acid plant oils out there (~55-77%). It also has low amounts of oleic acid, and this high-linoleic/low-oleic ratio gets people excited.
Linoleic acid helps maintain skin barrier integrity and is a building block for the ceramides in your stratum corneum. Notably, people with acne tend to have lower linoleic acid in their skin lipids as well (and this gets worse as acne gets more severe).
Overall, it's a lightweight, fast-absorbing oil that has a long safety track record. Lab testing has found it to be non-irritating for skin or eyes.
The Malassezia yeast can metabolize the fatty acids in this oil to grow; therefore this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Carthamus Tinctorius Seed OilCetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholCetyl Ethylhexanoate is an emollient ester. It comes from cetearyl alcohol and 2-ethylhexanoic acid.
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate is an emollient that adds a velvety feel to skin without being greasy or oily. Emollients help trap moisture into your skin, keeping your skin soft and hydrated.
Ethylhexyl Palmitate, also known as octyl palmitate, is created from 2-ethylhexyl alcohol and palmitic acid.
In cosmetics, it plays many roles:
One thing worth noting: a controlled study found this ingredient applied under occlusion to acne-prone subjects increased microcomedones. Just keep in mind this was under occlusive conditions and don't reflect how most products are used day-to-day.
For most people, this is a well-tolerated and lightweight ingredient.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because it is a fatty acid ester.
Learn more about Ethylhexyl PalmitateGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinPanthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Learn more about PanthenolPEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate is a synthetic, water-soluble surfactant and emulsifier.
It's a "superfatting" agent that helps replenish some of your skin's oils after they're stripped away by other surfactants.
This is why "gentle" and "moisturizing" cleansers feel less stripping than basic ones.
Typical concentrations range from 1-10% and it has a solid safety record. The CIR Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe at concentrations up to 10% in leave-on products.
Dermal application tests at 50% also did not produce irritation in two studies.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe and in vitro studies have shown Malassezia can metabolize it.
Learn more about PEG-7 Glyceryl CocoateStearic Acid is a fatty acid that is already found in your skin. It's one of the free fatty acids that works alongside ceramides and cholesterols to maintain your barrier.
In cosmetics, it is a multitasker:
Safety-wise, the CIR Expert Panel has concluded it to be safe in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.
Free stearic acid is a C18 fatty acid that the Malassezia yeast can substrate, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Stearic AcidWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water