Paula's Choice 1% Retinol Treatment Versus Dermaceutic Laboratoire Activ Retinol 1.0 Intense Age Defense Serum
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningDimethicone
Emollient
Glycerin
Humectant
Butylene Glycol
Humectant
Isononyl Isononanoate
EmollientCastor Isostearate Succinate
Skin Conditioning
Glyceryl Stearate
Emollient
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialDimethicone Crosspolymer
Emulsion Stabilising
PEG-33
HumectantPolysorbate 20
Emulsifying
Behenyl Alcohol
Emollient
PEG-100 Stearate
Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate
Emollient
Polymethylsilsesquioxane
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Antioxidant
Retinol
Skin Conditioning
Ceramide Ng
Skin Conditioning
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin Conditioning
Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12
Skin Conditioning
Sodium Hyaluronate
Humectant
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Humectant
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Bleaching
Avena Sativa Kernel Extract
Abrasive
Arctium Lappa Seed Oil
Emollient
Salix Alba Extract
Skin ConditioningGlycine Soja Sterols
Emollient
Lecithin
Emollient
Allantoin
Skin Conditioning
Tocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant
Hydrolyzed Soy Protein
Humectant
Sorbitan Laurate
Emulsifying
Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester
Skin Conditioning
Disodium EDTA
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin Conditioning
Sodium Hydroxide
BufferingTribehenin
Emollient
Caprylyl Glycol
Emollient
Ethylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningPentylene Glycol
Skin Conditioning
PEG-75 Shea Butter Glycerides
Emulsifying
PPG-12/Smdi Copolymer
EmollientPEG-10 Phytosterol
EmulsifyingPEG-8 Dimethicone
Emulsifying
PEG-14
HumectantMagnesium Aluminum Silicate
Absorbent
Arachidyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingArachidyl Alcohol
Emollient
Sclerotium Gum
Emulsion StabilisingCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingPhenoxyethanol
Preservative
Benzoic Acid
Masking
Water, Dimethicone, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Isononyl Isononanoate, Castor Isostearate Succinate, Glyceryl Stearate, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-33, Polysorbate 20, Behenyl Alcohol, PEG-100 Stearate, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Retinol, Ceramide Ng, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Sodium Hyaluronate, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Arctium Lappa Seed Oil, Salix Alba Extract, Glycine Soja Sterols, Lecithin, Allantoin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Sorbitan Laurate, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Disodium EDTA, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Sodium Hydroxide, Tribehenin, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Pentylene Glycol, PEG-75 Shea Butter Glycerides, PPG-12/Smdi Copolymer, PEG-10 Phytosterol, PEG-8 Dimethicone, PEG-14, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Arachidyl Glucoside, Arachidyl Alcohol, Sclerotium Gum, Carbomer, Phenoxyethanol, Benzoic Acid
Water
Skin ConditioningDiglycerin
Humectant
Trideceth-9
EmulsifyingEthylhexyl Methoxycrylene
Skin Conditioning
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Emulsifying
Panthenol
Skin Conditioning
Retinol
Skin Conditioning
Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate
Antioxidant
Ascorbyl Palmitate
Antioxidant
Tocopherol
Antioxidant
Allantoin
Skin Conditioning
Cholesterol
Emollient
Sphingolipids
Emollient
Phospholipids
Skin Conditioning
Lecithin
Emollient
Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides Citrate
Emollient
Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Emulsion StabilisingPolysorbate 20
Emulsifying
Ethylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningT-Butyl Alcohol
Perfuming
Glyceryl Stearate
Emollient
Potassium Sorbate
Preservative
Glyceryl Oleate
Emollient
Sodium Citrate
BufferingCitric Acid
Buffering
BHT
Antioxidant
BHA
Antioxidant
Phenoxyethanol
Preservative
Disodium EDTA
Sodium Hydroxide
BufferingWater, Diglycerin, Trideceth-9, Ethylhexyl Methoxycrylene, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Panthenol, Retinol, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Tocopherol, Allantoin, Cholesterol, Sphingolipids, Phospholipids, Lecithin, Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides Citrate, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Polysorbate 20, Ethylhexylglycerin, T-Butyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Potassium Sorbate, Glyceryl Oleate, Sodium Citrate, Citric Acid, BHT, BHA, Phenoxyethanol, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Hydroxide
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Allantoin is a soothing ingredient known for its protective and moisturizing properties; it's basically a quiet workhorse ingredient you can find in a huge range of cosmetics.
Though it can be derived from the comfrey plant, allantoin is produced synthetically for cosmetic products to ensure purity.
Research shows it can encourage your skin cells to turn over and renew by stimulating keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation.
It also has mild keratolytic properties to help loosen and shed dead skin cells without being harsh.
Studies also suggest allantoin can help calm inflammation by dialing down some of the chemical signals your skin sends out when it is irritated.
This ingredient is typically used in the 0.1-0.5% range, and the FDA recognizes it as a skin protectant in OTC products up to 2%.
Overall, allantoin is a wonderful addition to most routines; it is stable across a wide pH range (~4-8), works well with other ingredients, and is considered non-sensitizing/non-irritating.
Fun fact: Allantoin is naturally occurring in comfrey root, beets, chamomile, and wheat sprouts. Our bodies even produce it as a byproduct of uric acid metabolism.
Learn more about AllantoinDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearateLecithin is a term for a group of substances found in the cell membranes of plants, animals, and humans. They are made up of phospholipids.
Thanks to its amphiphilic structure (water-loving head and oil-loving tail), it is a true multitasker:
It plays well with most ingredients and is typically used at 0.1-1%. However, concentrations up to 50% have been reported in moisturizers.
Depending on the source of this ingredient, lecithin may not be fungal acne safe. This is because some sources of lecithin come from soybean oil, which may feed the malassezia yeast that causes fungal acne.
We recommend reaching out to the brand you are purchasing from to inquire about the source of their lecithin.
Learn more about LecithinPhenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Polysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.
It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.
The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.
Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).
True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.
Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Polysorbate 20Retinol is a gold-standard ingredient for anti-aging. It is a form of Vitamin A and belongs to the class of retinoids that also includes tretinoin.
Why is retinol famous?
It has the most scientific studies backing up its skin benefits out of all the non-prescription ingredients.
Retinol is proven to:
This is why retinol is effective at removing wrinkles, fading dark spots, treating acne, and reducing the appearance of pores.
Studies show retinol is less effective when exposed to UV. Be sure to look for appropriate packaging to keep your retinol potent (similar to Vitamin C).
Using retinol or any retinoids will increase sun-sensitivity in the first few months. Though studies show retinoids increase your skin's natural SPF with continuous use, it is best to always wear sunscreen and sun-protection.
We recommend speaking with a medical professional about using this ingredient during pregnancy.
Retinol may cause irritation in some people, so be sure to patch test. Experts recommend 'ramping up' retinol use: start using this ingredient once a week and work up to using it daily.
Read about Tretinoin
Learn more about RetinolSodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.
In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.
Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.
"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.
Learn more about Sodium HydroxideWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water
