Palmer's Cocoa Butter Firming Butter Versus Garnier Ultimate Blends Smoothing Conditioner With Coconut Oil & Cocoa Butter
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningParaffinum Liquidum
EmollientTheobroma Cacao Extract
Skin ConditioningIsopropyl Myristate
EmollientPropylene Glycol
HumectantCetyl Alcohol
EmollientPalmitic Acid
EmollientStearic Acid
CleansingTheobroma Cacao Seed Butter
EmollientButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantCocoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen
CleansingHydrolyzed Elastin
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantCamellia Oleifera Seed Extract
AstringentChamomilla Recutita Flower Extract
MaskingPanax Ginseng Root Extract
EmollientUbiquinone
AntioxidantDimethicone
EmollientLecithin
EmollientCarnitine
CleansingHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientLeuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
AntimicrobialPolyimide-1
Triethanolamine
BufferingPEG-40 Stearate
EmulsifyingStearyl Alcohol
EmollientCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningTetrasodium EDTA
ChelatingAcrylates Copolymer
Phenoxyethanol
PreservativeButylene Glycol
HumectantParfum
MaskingBenzyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialBenzyl Cinnamate
PerfumingWater, Paraffinum Liquidum, Theobroma Cacao Extract, Isopropyl Myristate, Propylene Glycol, Cetyl Alcohol, Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid, Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Tocopherol, Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydrolyzed Elastin, Glycerin, Camellia Oleifera Seed Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Ubiquinone, Dimethicone, Lecithin, Carnitine, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Polyimide-1, Triethanolamine, PEG-40 Stearate, Stearyl Alcohol, Carbomer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Tetrasodium EDTA, Acrylates Copolymer, Phenoxyethanol, Butylene Glycol, Parfum, Benzyl Benzoate, Benzyl Cinnamate
Water
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantIsopropyl Myristate
EmollientStearamidopropyl Dimethylamine
EmulsifyingGlycine Soja Oil
EmollientHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientCocos Nucifera Oil
MaskingTheobroma Cacao Seed Butter
EmollientCoco-Caprylate/Caprate
EmollientHydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride
Caprylyl Glycol
EmollientTartaric Acid
BufferingCetyl Esters
EmollientSalicylic Acid
MaskingCaramel
Cosmetic ColorantLinalool
PerfumingBenzyl Alcohol
PerfumingBenzyl Salicylate
PerfumingParfum
MaskingWater, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Isopropyl Myristate, Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Glycine Soja Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Caprylyl Glycol, Tartaric Acid, Cetyl Esters, Salicylic Acid, Caramel, Linalool, Benzyl Alcohol, Benzyl Salicylate, Parfum
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil is a plant oil derived from the seeds of a sunflower.
It is rich in fatty acids, primarily linoleic acid and oleic acid. This gives it emollient and skin conditioning properties.
The reason this ingredient is so effective is because it forms a thin film on the skin that reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) while supplying linoleic acid to the stratum corneum to improve barrier strength.
The high linoleic acid content is particularly noteworthy for acne-prone skin.
Research suggests that acne-prone skin tends to be deficient in linoleic acid in sebum. Topical application may help replenish this to support a healthier follicular environment and less comedone-promoting sebum.
One randomized study found sunflower seed oil preserved skin barrier integrity in adult volunteers with and without atopic dermatitis (outperforming olive oil).
This ingredient is well-studied, gentle, and an effective emollient suitable for most skin types.
On fungal acne: This ingredient may not be Fungal acne (Malassezia folliculitis) safe. This is because it contains fatty acids with carbon chain lengths in the C11-C24 range.
Learn more about Helianthus Annuus Seed OilIsopropyl Myristate is an ester made by combining isopropyl alcohol with myristic acid.
It is primarily an emollient and penetration enhancer that gives products a lightweight, silky feel without the heaviness of oils.
This ingredient is generally considered non-toxic, non-irritating, and has low absorption potential.
This ingredient does have a comedogenic rating of 3-5, but this doesn't mean a formula with this ingredient will clog pores.
Dermatologist Dr. Zoe Draelos has also confirmed in a peer-reviewed paper that products containing comedogenic ingredients are not necessarily comedogenic themselves.
A small subset of people (~2%) may experience contact sensitivity so patch testing is a reasonable idea if you have reactive skin.
Since this ingredient is an ester of myristic acid (a C14 fatty acid), it falls within the carbon chain range that is known to feed Malassezia. This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Isopropyl MyristateParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumThis ingredient is also known as Cocoa butter; it's the fat pressed out of roasted cocoa beans.
Cocoa butter is solid at room temperature and melts right around body temperature, which is why it feels waxy in the jar and slippery on skin.
It has a very saturated profile (stearic acid ~34 to 36%, oleic acid ~30 to 40%, and palmitic acid ~24 to 29%) that makes it a strong occlusive: it sits on top and slows water escaping from skin.
Concentration data shows that it can show up anywhere from a few percent in lotions up to 100% in balms, and the FDA lists cocoa butter as an OTC skin protectant active at 50-100%.
The CIR has reviewed it and concluded it to be safe as used in cosmetics.
This is one of the ingredients with a comedogenic score of 4/5 from the rabbit ear test. Just know that a later human study did find that finished products containing high-comedogenic ingredients like cocoa butter did not increase microcomedone formation.
The fair call here is that this ingredient is most likely fine on body or low-percentage formulas, but can potentially be riskier as a heavy leave-on facial product if you break out easily.
Cocoa butter may not be fungal acne safe; it is a triglyceride of C16-18 fatty acids that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Allergies to cocoa butter are rare and uncommon, but a few cases have been documented (mostly in cases where the person ate chocolate). So if you have a tree nut allergy, be sure to patch test or avoid.
Learn more about Theobroma Cacao Seed ButterWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water