What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Glyceryl Stearate
Emollient
Cyclopentasiloxane
Emollient
Butylene Glycol
Humectant
Stearic Acid
Cleansing
Polysorbate 60
Emulsifying
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin Conditioning
Glycerin
Humectant
Stearyl Alcohol
Emollient
Cyclohexasiloxane
Emollient
Dimethicone
Emollient
Retinol
Skin Conditioning
Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract
Masking
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Antimicrobial
Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract
Masking
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Humectant
Sodium Hyaluronate
Humectant
Tocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant
Bisabolol
Antioxidant
Ascorbic Acid
Antioxidant
Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil
Masking
Sorbitol
Humectant
Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer
HumectantDimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Skin Conditioning
Allyl Methacrylates Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingCaprylyl Glycol
Emollient
Ethylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningHexylene Glycol
EmulsifyingPolysorbate 20
Emulsifying
Carbomer
Emulsion StabilisingDisodium EDTA
Triethanolamine
BufferingBHT
Antioxidant
Phenoxyethanol
Preservative
Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glyceryl Stearate, Cyclopentasiloxane, Butylene Glycol, Stearic Acid, Polysorbate 60, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Glycerin, Stearyl Alcohol, Cyclohexasiloxane, Dimethicone, Retinol, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Bisabolol, Ascorbic Acid, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Sorbitol, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Allyl Methacrylates Crosspolymer, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hexylene Glycol, Polysorbate 20, Carbomer, Disodium EDTA, Triethanolamine, BHT, Phenoxyethanol
Water
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Sodium Ascorbate
Antioxidant
Tocopherol
Antioxidant
Retinol
Skin Conditioning
Cetearyl Alcohol
Emollient
Polysorbate 60
Emulsifying
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin Conditioning
Butylene Glycol
Humectant
Cyclopentasiloxane
Emollient
Dimethicone
Emollient
Hydrolyzed Yeast Extract
Skin ConditioningCetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingPolyglucuronic Acid
Skin ConditioningLecithin
Emollient
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Emulsifying
Phenoxyethanol
Preservative
Caprylyl Glycol
Emollient
Sorbic Acid
Preservative
Polysorbate 80
Emulsifying
Glyceryl Stearate
Emollient
Behenyl Alcohol
Emollient
Palmitic Acid
Emollient
Stearic Acid
Cleansing
Lauryl Alcohol
Emollient
Myristyl Alcohol
Emollient
Cetyl Alcohol
Emollient
Hinokitiol
Xanthan Gum
EmulsifyingAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingSodium Hydroxide
BufferingTocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant
Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate
Antioxidant
Disodium Lauriminodipropionate Tocopheryl Phosphates
CleansingTetrasodium EDTA
Citric Acid
Buffering
Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Sodium Ascorbate, Tocopherol, Retinol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Polysorbate 60, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Butylene Glycol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone, Hydrolyzed Yeast Extract, Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, Polyglucuronic Acid, Lecithin, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Sorbic Acid, Polysorbate 80, Glyceryl Stearate, Behenyl Alcohol, Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid, Lauryl Alcohol, Myristyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, Hinokitiol, Xanthan Gum, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Sodium Hydroxide, Tocopheryl Acetate, Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate, Disodium Lauriminodipropionate Tocopheryl Phosphates, Tetrasodium EDTA, Citric Acid
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolThis ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Learn more about Butyrospermum Parkii ButterCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCaprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid or alcohol, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Learn more about Caprylyl GlycolCyclopentasiloxane, or D5, is a silicone used to improve texture of products and trap moisture.
D5 is considered lightweight and volatile. Volatile means it evaporates quickly after application. Once evaporated, D5 leaves a thin barrier that helps keep skin hydrated.
It is also an emollient. Emollients help soften the skin and prevent water loss. Silicones create a silky texture in products. D5 helps other ingredients become more spreadable.
Studies show D5 is safe to use in skincare products. We recommend speaking with a skincare professional if you have concerns.
Learn more about CyclopentasiloxaneDimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Learn more about DimethiconeGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearatePhenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Polysorbate 60 is used to help stabilize products. It is a surfactant and emulsifier. These properties help keep ingredients together in a product. Surfactants help reduce surface tension between ingredients with different states, such as liquids and solids. Emulsifiers help prevent oils and waters from separating.
Polysorbate 60 is sorbitol-based and created from the ethoxylation of sorbitan. Ethoxylation is a chemical reaction used to add ethylene oxide. Sorbitan is a the dehydrated version of sorbitol, a sugar found in fruits.
In this case, the 60 comes from reacting 60 units of ethylene oxide with sorbitan.
Polysorbates are commonly used in medicine and foods.
Learn more about Polysorbate 60Retinol is a gold-standard ingredient for anti-aging. It is a form of Vitamin A and belongs to the class of retinoids that also includes tretinoin.
Why is retinol famous?
It has the most scientific studies backing up its skin benefits out of all the non-prescription ingredients.
Retinol is proven to:
This is why retinol is effective at removing wrinkles, fading dark spots, treating acne, and reducing the appearance of pores.
Studies show retinol is less effective when exposed to UV. Be sure to look for appropriate packaging to keep your retinol potent (similar to Vitamin C).
Using retinol or any retinoids will increase sun-sensitivity in the first few months. Though studies show retinoids increase your skin's natural SPF with continuous use, it is best to always wear sunscreen and sun-protection.
We recommend speaking with a medical professional about using this ingredient during pregnancy.
Retinol may cause irritation in some people, so be sure to patch test. Experts recommend 'ramping up' retinol use: start using this ingredient once a week and work up to using it daily.
Read about Tretinoin
Learn more about RetinolStearic Acid is a fatty acid that is already found in your skin. It's one of the free fatty acids that works alongside ceramides and cholesterols to maintain your barrier.
In cosmetics, it is a multitasker:
Safety-wise, the CIR Expert Panel has concluded it to be safe in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.
Free stearic acid is a C18 fatty acid that the Malassezia yeast can substrate, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Stearic AcidTocopheryl Acetate is AKA Vitamin E. It is an antioxidant and protects your skin from free radicals. Free radicals damage the skin by breaking down collagen.
One study found using Tocopheryl Acetate with Vitamin C decreased the number of sunburned cells.
Tocopheryl Acetate is commonly found in both skincare and dietary supplements.
Learn more about Tocopheryl AcetateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water
