Nuxe Merveillance Lift Concentrated Night Cream Versus Lancôme Visionnaire Nuit Beauty Sleep Perfector
This anti-aging night moisturizer is formulated around Squalane to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.
This barrier-repair night moisturizer is formulated around Glycine Soja Oil and Hydroxypalmitoyl Sphinganine to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningSqualane
EmollientDicaprylyl Ether
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantAlcohol Denat.
AntimicrobialCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningPolyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Emulsion StabilisingButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningParfum
Masking1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientSodium Stearoyl Glutamate
CleansingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientAlthaea Officinalis Root Extract
Skin ConditioningCitric Acid
BufferingUndaria Pinnatifida Extract
Skin ConditioningBenzyl Alcohol
PerfumingChlorella Vulgaris Extract
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantDehydroacetic Acid
PreservativeRosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialLinalool
PerfumingAlpha-Isomethyl Ionone
PerfumingGeraniol
PerfumingCitronellol
PerfumingLimonene
PerfumingWater, Squalane, Dicaprylyl Ether, Glycerin, Alcohol Denat., Cetearyl Alcohol, Pentylene Glycol, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Parfum, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Xanthan Gum, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Althaea Officinalis Root Extract, Citric Acid, Undaria Pinnatifida Extract, Benzyl Alcohol, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Tocopherol, Dehydroacetic Acid, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Linalool, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Geraniol, Citronellol, Limonene
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantGlycine Soja Oil
EmollientDimethicone
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingAlcohol Denat.
AntimicrobialIsocetyl Stearate
EmollientIsononyl Isononanoate
EmollientPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningPolyglyceryl-2 Stearate
EmulsifyingStearyl Heptanoate
EmollientPEG-8 Stearate
EmulsifyingSorbitol
HumectantCI 19140
Cosmetic ColorantRibes Nigrum Seed Oil
EmollientHydroxypalmitoyl Sphinganine
Skin ConditioningStearyl Caprylate
EmollientPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeStearic Acid
CleansingSteareth-100/PEG-136/Hdi Copolymer
Adenosine
Skin ConditioningHaematococcus Pluvialis Extract
AntioxidantAlgae Extract
EmollientTriethanolamine
BufferingPalmitic Acid
EmollientHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientAmmonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Emulsion StabilisingLaminaria Ochroleuca Extract
Skin ConditioningLimonene
PerfumingPentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
AntioxidantBenzyl Salicylate
PerfumingBenzyl Alcohol
PerfumingLinalool
Perfuming2-Oleamido-1,3-Octadecanediol
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Glycerides
EmollientCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientAlpha-Isomethyl Ionone
PerfumingGeraniol
PerfumingCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningDisodium Stearoyl Glutamate
CleansingRosa Canina Fruit Oil
EmollientCetyl Alcohol
EmollientMethyldihydrojasmonate
MaskingVitreoscilla Ferment
Skin ConditioningCitronellol
PerfumingParfum
MaskingWater, Glycerin, Glycine Soja Oil, Dimethicone, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Alcohol Denat., Isocetyl Stearate, Isononyl Isononanoate, Pentylene Glycol, Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate, Stearyl Heptanoate, PEG-8 Stearate, Sorbitol, CI 19140, Ribes Nigrum Seed Oil, Hydroxypalmitoyl Sphinganine, Stearyl Caprylate, Phenoxyethanol, Stearic Acid, Steareth-100/PEG-136/Hdi Copolymer, Adenosine, Haematococcus Pluvialis Extract, Algae Extract, Triethanolamine, Palmitic Acid, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Laminaria Ochroleuca Extract, Limonene, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Benzyl Salicylate, Benzyl Alcohol, Linalool, 2-Oleamido-1,3-Octadecanediol, Caprylic/Capric Glycerides, Caprylyl Glycol, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Geraniol, Ceramide NP, Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Rosa Canina Fruit Oil, Cetyl Alcohol, Methyldihydrojasmonate, Vitreoscilla Ferment, Citronellol, Parfum
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Alcohol Denat. is an alcohol with a denaturant property. It is created by mixing ethanol with other additives.
The "denat" part just means "denatured"; common denaturants include Denatonium Benzoate, t-butyl alcohol, and Diethyl Phthalate. This step makes the alcohol undrinkable (and lets brand skip taxes related to beverage alcohol).
This ingredient gets a bad rep because it is irritating and drying due to its astringent property. Astringents draw out natural oils in tissue to constrict pores and dry out your skin.
However, alcohol denat. is not all that bad.
Due to its low molecular weight, alcohol denat. tends to evaporate quickly. One study on pig skin found half of applied alcohol evaporated in 10 seconds and less than 3% stayed on skin.
This also helps other ingredients become better absorbed upon application.
Studies are conflicted about whether this ingredient causes skin dehydration. One study from 2005 found adding emollients to propanol-based sanitizer decreased skin dryness and irritation. Another study found irritation only occurs if your skin is already damaged.
Small amounts of alcohol are generally tolerated by oily skin or people who live in humid environments.
The rule of thumb is this ingredient will probably not affect your skin much if it is near the end of an ingredients list.
One thing to note:
People with ALDH2 (aldehyde dehydrogenase 2) deficiency may experience skin irritation from continued alcohol use. About 8% of the world's population have this deficiency.
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has determined denatured alcohols to be safe for use in concentrations between 0.05% and 12% (depending on which denaturant is used).
Also...
This ingredient has antimicrobial and solvent properties.
The antimicrobial property helps preserve products and increase their shelf life. As a solvent, it helps dissolve other ingredients.
Look for formulas that contain glycerin, hyaluronic acid, or panthenol if you want to offset any drying effect.
This ingredient will trip away your skin's natural oils/lipids that help it lock in moisture. This can worsen dryness, trigger eczema flare-ups, and aggravate rosacea.
Be sure to patch test any product with this ingredient if you have dry or sensitive skin, eczema, or rosacea.
Learn more about Alcohol Denat.Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone is a fragrance. It can be synthetically created or naturally occurring.
The scent of Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone is described as "flowery" but can also be "woody".
Naturally occurring Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone may be found in Saccharomyces cerevisiae, or the yeast used to make wine and bread.
The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.
Learn more about Alpha-Isomethyl IononeBenzyl Alcohol is an aromatic alcohol with several roles: it's a preservative, solvent, and mild fragrance component with a floral scent.
This ingredient has been deemed safe for use in cosmetic formulations at concentrations up to 5%, and up to 10% in hair dyes. You'll typically see 0.5-2% in most rinse-off or leave-on products.
As a preservative, it works by disrupting the membrane of microbial proteins. This helps keep bacteria and fungi from growing in your products.
The sensitization picture is actually quite assuring as well:of nearly 71,000 patients patch tested with benzyl alcohol, only 0.21% showed a positive reaction with most of them being weakly positive.
This led researchers to conclude that benzyl alcohol cannot be regarded as a significant contact allergen.
It is worth noting this ingredient is classified as one of the EU's regulated fragrance allergens and restricted to 1% in finished products.
Labels must also declare it in concentrations above 0.001% in leave-on products and 0.01% in rinse-off products.
At concentrations around 5%, localized redness and itching can appear as a direct irritant response and not as a true allergic reaction.
Learn more about Benzyl AlcoholCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCaprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Learn more about Caprylyl GlycolCitronellol is used to add fragrance/parfum to a product. It is often derived from plants such as roses. In fact, it can be found in many essential oils including geranium, lavender, neroli, and more. The scent of Citronellol is often described as "fresh, grassy, and citrus-like".
Since the Citronellol molecule is already unstable, Citronellol becomes irritating on the skin when exposed to air.
Citronellol is a modified terpene. Terpenes are unsaturated hydrocarbons found in plants. They make up the primary part of essential oils.
Citronellol is not able to be absorbed into deeper layers of the skin. It has low permeability,
Citronellol is also a natural insect repellent.
Learn more about CitronellolGeraniol is used to add fragrance/parfum to a product. It is the main component of citronellol. It is a monoterpenoid and an alcohol.
Monoterpenes are naturally found in many parts of different plants.
Geraniol can be found in many essential oils including Rose Oil and Citronella Oil. The scent of Geraniol is often described as "rose-like". Many foods also contain Geraniol for fruit flavoring.
Geraniol can irritate the skin when exposed to air. However, irritation depends on the ability of geraniol to penetrate into the skin. In general, geraniol is not able to penetrate skin easily.
Geraniol is colorless and has low water-solubility. However, it is soluble in common organic solvents.
Like citronellol, it is a natural insect repellent.
2,6-Octadien-1-ol, 3,7-dimethyl-, (2E)-
Learn more about GeraniolGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil is a plant oil derived from the seeds of a sunflower.
It is rich in fatty acids, primarily linoleic acid and oleic acid. This gives it emollient and skin conditioning properties.
The reason this ingredient is so effective is because it forms a thin film on the skin that reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) while supplying linoleic acid to the stratum corneum to improve barrier strength.
The high linoleic acid content is particularly noteworthy for acne-prone skin.
Research suggests that acne-prone skin tends to be deficient in linoleic acid in sebum. Topical application may help replenish this to support a healthier follicular environment and less comedone-promoting sebum.
One randomized study found sunflower seed oil preserved skin barrier integrity in adult volunteers with and without atopic dermatitis (outperforming olive oil).
This ingredient is well-studied, gentle, and an effective emollient suitable for most skin types.
On fungal acne: This ingredient may not be Fungal acne (Malassezia folliculitis) safe. This is because it contains fatty acids with carbon chain lengths in the C11-C24 range.
Learn more about Helianthus Annuus Seed OilLimonene is a fragrance that adds scent and taste to a formulation.
It's found in the peel oil of citrus fruits and other plants such as lavender and eucalyptus. The scent of limonene is generally described as "sweet citrus".
Limonene acts as an antioxidant, meaning it helps neutralize free radicals.
When exposed to air, oxidized limonene may sensitize the skin. Because of this, limonene is often avoided by people with sensitive skin.
The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.
Learn more about LimoneneLinalool is a fragrance and helps add scent to products. It's derived from common plants such as cinnamon, mint, citrus, and lavender.
Like Limonene, this ingredient oxidizes when exposed to air. Oxidized linalool can cause allergies and skin sensitivity.
This ingredient has a scent that is floral, spicy tropical, and citrus-like.
Learn more about LinaloolParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumPentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:
Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.
On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.
Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.
Learn more about Pentylene GlycolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water